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lightwaverf FAQ

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13

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    #62
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Hi, this q and a might be of interest, again I think one of the rings to be aware of is the lack of two way interface/response

    http://www.vesternet.com/resources/technology-comparison/lightwaverf-or-z-wave


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    #63
    bk
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,463 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    wexfordman2 wrote: »
    Hi, this q and a might be of interest, again I think one of the rings to be aware of is the lack of two way interface/response

    http://www.vesternet.com/resources/technology-comparison/lightwaverf-or-z-wave

    Stoner would know this better then me, but I think this article is a little out of date. The lightwaverf protocol does in fact support two way comms. However to save on cost, most of the devices (plugs, sockets) only support one way comms, however some of the newer and more expensive products like the smart TRV's do in fact support two way comms.

    It is certainly a trade off (cost versus two way reliability). One thing I notice is that lwrf seems relatively available in the consumer retail market (amazon, Maplins, etc.) while z-wave products seem to be much more expensive, speciality product, sold by home automation specialist stores and as such not really aimed as add on products for the general consumer.

    I might be wrong, just seems to be that way from what I've seen, but I'd love to be proven wrong.

    There seems to be a distinct lack of two way comms, affordable plugs, sockets and switches in the UK/Irish consumer market in the same way that we have Hue for lighting.


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    #64
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    bk wrote:
    There seems to be a distinct lack of two way comms, affordable plugs, sockets and switches in the UK/Irish consumer market in the same way that we have Hue for lighting.

    Yes you are correct.

    The sockets I have look well. The white ones are very good quality, the faces clip off for the screwless look. The brushed chrome are OK too, polished looks cheap but always does IMO

    The only connectivity issues I have relate to needing an extender to reach some contactors in the attic.

    I rarely if ever have connection issues,
    Sometimes there is a time lag, lack of a mesh nw is an issue, but this whole two way thing is being oversold IMO my devices turn on when I want them to. I have it for years now.


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    #65
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Stoner wrote: »
    Yes you are correct.

    The sockets I have look well. The white ones are very good quality, the faces clip off for the screwless look. The brushed chrome are OK too, polished looks cheap but always does IMO

    The only connectivity issues I have relate to needing an extender to reach some contactors in the attic.

    I rarely if ever have connection issues,
    Sometimes there is a time lag, lack of a mesh nw is an issue, but this whole two way thing is being oversold IMO my devices turn on when I want them to. I have it for years now.

    It's not so much the reliability of one way, I would say that when a command is fired to activate a device, it's pretty much guaranteed to get there, and if you are worried, then just fire off two commands.

    I am coming from the specific issue with one way communication not allowing your network or hub to know if or when a device has been turned on manually/locally. This I think is a significant drawback. I base this on my experience with having a similar issue when I had my entire house working using x10 devices, which were all one way.

    Reliability was not an issue, when a command was sent, the device activated, but the complete lack of any way to update your hub based on when a device was manually activagd was a severe limitation that I would not like to have again (I replaced/rewired my entire house to remove the x10 devices in place of a system that had two way comms).

    Now I had x10 for about twelve years, and it was OK, it was good for its time, but the one way coms thing was the main killer for me, and I would be very reluctant to look at installing anything or any device that had only one way comms now, it's too much of a drawback and limitation.

    If lightwave offer two way comms devices then thats great (in fact I would buy and use the sockets if they were two way).


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    #66
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    wexfordman2 wrote:
    Reliability was not an issue, when a command was sent, the device activated, but the complete lack of any way to update your hub based on when a device was manually activagd was a severe limitation that I would not like to have again (I replaced/rewired my entire house to remove the x10 devices in place of a system that had two way comms).

    Very good. What rewiring did you have to do to remove X10? Had you the X10 wired sockets? They were expensive and manky looking.

    I used X10 for years too, but as you know the network is over the power cables so not much rewiring, unless you had the lights and while they require some neutrals or maybe looping the feeds at the ceiling rises etc where would they need a rewiring afterwards ? Fundamentally the wiring would be completely functional no ?

    The sockets don't have or won't to the best of my knowledge have two way communication, so I'd look elsewhere if you needed it.

    But do you mind me asking you , what do you need it for. Are you using a layer of tech above this that you need this confirmation from? What level of automation or functionality are you losing as a result, in practical terms. I understand there's no comms back to the hub, but why does that bother you, is it simply because you don't have the feedback from the app to show something is on, like say a Philips hue lamp?

    IMO the lack of a mesh nw is a bigger issue for lightwaverf.

    It's biggest selling point is how nice the accessories look IMO. I really don't want a bag of inline units ever again. Fine behind the TV or in the attic but that's about it. I'd rather a nice looking unit with no feedback than an inline unit in a living room etc. The beauty of IFTTT anyway I'd that if I did need one I'd get a WeMo.


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    #67
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Stoner wrote: »
    Very good. What rewiring did you have to do to remove X10?

    All my x10 modules were DIN rail, so the wiring was different to standard house wiring. I replaced my x10 with a system that had a similar wiring topology, which also had din rail modules, so the mains wiring was identical. All I had to do was run cat5 to the light switches.

    The system I went for was velbus.

    Stoner wrote: »
    Had you the X10 wired sockets? They were expensive and manky looking.

    No, no sockets, I could have used X10 din rail modules for this also, but I decided against it, I had a few plug in modules.
    Stoner wrote: »
    I used X10 for years too, but as you know the network is over the power cables so not much rewiring, unless you had the lights and while they require some neutrals or maybe looping the feeds at the ceiling rises etc where would they need a rewiring afterwards ? Fundamentally the wiring would be completely functional no ?

    I did up a bit of a guide/overview on how I did it, see below if you are interested, it does go into the wiring and how I migrated from one to the other. Again, all my x10 modules were din mounted, so it was a star wiring topology, which suits velbus and other similar technologies.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1zlDoqP2HdxUGVJdnY3WGtYamM

    Stoner wrote: »
    The sockets don't have or won't to the best of my knowledge have two way communication, so I'd look elsewhere if you needed it.

    They do look nice though, I am impressed with the look of them
    Stoner wrote: »
    But do you mind me asking you , what do you need it for. Are you using a layer of tech above this that you need this confirmation from? What level of automation or functionality are you losing as a result, in practical terms. I understand there's no comms back to the hub, but why does that bother you, is it simply because you don't have the feedback from the app to show something is on, like say a Philips hue lamp?

    Yep, you dont have the feedback is my main issue, when the device is controlled locally/mannualy, there is no way of reporting that back, so a lot of the logic you apple to macros etc have to try and guess the status of a device.



    Stoner wrote: »
    t's biggest selling point is how nice the accessories look IMO. I really don't want a bag of inline units ever again. Fine behind the TV or in the attic but that's about it. I'd rather a nice looking unit with no feedback than an inline unit in a living room etc. The beauty of IFTTT anyway I'd that if I did need one I'd get a WeMo.

    Agree, anyhting I add now, has to have that built in look, and not some mesh of modules etc. I may just add more velbus modules, or I might hang on for something thats more of a like for like replacement, I think something like that can only be just around the corner fingers crossed.


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    #68
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    wexfordman2 wrote:
    I did up a bit of a guide/overview on how I did it, see below if you are interested, it does go into the wiring and how I migrated from one to the other. Again, all my x10 modules were din mounted, so it was a star wiring topology, which suits velbus and other similar technologies.

    Looks great. I never used cat5 in mine

    I only had one dinrail unit on my external lighting cct

    Had inline lighting units, a universal unit for a gate , a different universal unit I never used

    Had the boiler switch too. That was a great unit looked ok too.

    I run out of ideas of where to use them TBH. It becomes automation for the sake of it. I like the lightwaverf app as I've so much stuff in one place

    But I've a bag of it now all mashed up with a hue lighting system.
    I've decided to get a smartThings hub. I've a Sonoff unit in the post to mess with too , with such low wattage lamps around heat dissipation has has nearly disappeared as an issue.

    I remember installing KWatts of dimmers into buildings

    I out MK edge brushed chrome accessories everywhere in my place 12 years ago. Its very hard to move away from it to some of the stuff out there these days.


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    #69
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    I was lucky as my house is a bungalow so I was able to pull the cat 5 down to the switches as we pulled out the 220v

    The clipsal switches annoyed me after a while, they were quite stiff to press (although a lot if there rooms were in sensors) bit o replaced them with some lovely brushed steel momentary switches

    I thought of keeping a few x10 modules in place bit TBH the tech was getting old so I just bit the bullet in the end. Have a box full of ad10 units and dimmers that have no purpose but can't bring myself to dump them. In fairness, they worked flawlessly for nearly twelve years with no hardware failures.


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    #70
    fergalom
    Registered Users Posts: 113 ✭✭fergalom


    Quick one - have a single gang Lightwave rf megaman LW400 dimmer (LED compatible)
    6 x 4W GU10 dimmable Osram LEDs

    Trouble is they wont all swtich off - two remain flashing when the dimmer switched off.

    Anyone come across this?
    Think I may need something like this or is there another solution?
    https://www.downlights.co.uk/danlers-res-load.html


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    #71
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Hi, There is a list of lamps that work on the different dimmers on the lightwaverf web site. I've had similar issues myself, either the switch does nothing or the lamps flash when off etc even when you are within the correct parameters (15-60W for LED )There are some philips branded lamps that work listed that are only about 5 euro


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    #72
    afatbollix
    Registered Users Posts: 4,037 ✭✭✭afatbollix


    Im moving house soon and would like to install smart electric from the start.

    I want to change the switches and plugs as I would rather upgrade the lamps over time instead of buying aload of bulbs.

    In the sitting room I want it so that you can have mood lighting yet turn on the main lights and when leaving the room have a master off switch.

    408533.jpg

    For the bed room I was going to use the wireless switches by the bed so we can turn off all lights when its time for sleep.

    408534.jpg


    The only other thing I was going to add was a master all off switch by the front door and a door sensor so that when you arrive home it will turn on the lights depending if it is dark enough.

    408535.jpg

    Any recommendations or ideas to make this set up better?


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    #73
    sharkman
    Registered Users, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 6,515 Mod ✭✭✭✭sharkman


    Quick question Stoner , is there HomeKit integration ?


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    #74
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    sharkman wrote:
    Quick question Stoner , is there HomeKit integration ?

    No not that I know of. But they announced and introduced echo and IFTTT integration within a month


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    #75
    bk
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,463 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    sharkman wrote: »
    Quick question Stoner , is there HomeKit integration ?
    Stoner wrote: »
    No not that I know of. But they announced and introduced echo and IFTTT integration within a month

    Homekit has much higher performance and security standards then GHome, Alexa, etc. If they were to ever add homekit integration, it would likely require a new hub, as it did for Philips Hue, etc.


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    #76
    afatbollix
    Registered Users Posts: 4,037 ✭✭✭afatbollix


    Still havnt taken the plunge yet, Would the above set up work?


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    #77
    lgk
    Registered Users Posts: 589 ✭✭✭lgk


    afatbollix wrote: »
    Still havnt taken the plunge yet, Would the above set up work?

    It will work, just don't invest in LightWaveRF until their second generation range (with 2-way comms) arrives in October


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    #78
    darrenheaphy
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭darrenheaphy


    Their new products are out October 3rd, you can order now but ship on 3rd; 1 gang dimmer is £59, 2 gang dimmer is £99. I spent some time researching it but am going to adopt Philips Hue primarily.


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    #79
    bk
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 22,463 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    darrenheaphy wrote: »
    Their new products are out October 3rd, you can order now but ship on 3rd; 1 gang dimmer is £59, 2 gang dimmer is £99. I spent some time researching it but am going to adopt Philips Hue primarily.

    Do those prices include the hub too?

    If not, then very expensive.


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    #80
    wexfordman2
    Registered Users Posts: 2,541 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    bk wrote: »
    Do those prices include the hub too?

    If not, then very expensive.

    Depwnsa though, for example, of your room has multiple.bulbs on one circuit, then it could be cheaper than hue. I have a couple of rooms with six or seven low voltage gu10s.

    I have a different system anyway, but for people looking at options, hue is very pricy for those scenarios.

    If the new lightwave is two way, then it has potential, bit if not, i would stay well clear


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    #81
    darrenheaphy
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭darrenheaphy


    bk wrote: »
    Do those prices include the hub too?

    If not, then very expensive.

    No, that's without the hub! The Link Plus (the hub) is 129 GBP


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    #82
    donspeekinglesh
    Registered Users Posts: 1,861 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    The Gen2 devices are on sale now.
    £185 for the hub and a lightswitch.


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    #83
    afatbollix
    Registered Users Posts: 4,037 ✭✭✭afatbollix


    It has 2 way too.

    Will prob go for the gen 2 plugs for energy monitoring but gen 1 light switches.


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    #84
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    wexfordman2 wrote:
    If the new lightwave is two way, then it has potential, bit if not, i would stay well clear

    I know we've discussed this before.

    But no two way is not the end of the world. Stay well clear is harsh. Some f the lightwave kit is really well made and looks very good

    I'd rather have it (state aware). But the lightwave stuff looks well, I've very little issues with mine. Apart from the heating in the early days it's been solid as hell.

    Every day I use my scene selection to turn on lights , TV etc. It's worked perfectly for 18 months now.

    Compare this to smartthings zigbee two way, that's cheap and unreliable.
    I'll call out a bad buy. I'm not attached to everything I buy.

    I'm not a fan of clunky inline socket double adapter sized units.

    I'll suffer lack of state aware sockets for the slick look they have.

    As you say it will be great when it happens
    Had terrible trouble switching LEDs (within the wattage ranges) with their switches though. I took those out.

    Added the 3KW immersion switch recently, very good again no issues


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    #85
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    afatbollix wrote:
    Any recommendations or ideas to make this set up better?


    One thing. The mood switches work differently to how I imagined they would.

    Every item you attach to the mood switch will have a signal sent to it for every mood. So if you wanted the TV on and a lamp on you add them to the switch, turn them on and set a mood to that. You can't leave something out of a mood
    you can't have lamps coming on and have the TV left out of the switching for one mood but not another,
    it will be set to whatever state it was at when you programmed the mood.

    So although you can add lots of items to the mood switch,it's limited enough.


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    #86
    Dazzy
    Registered Users Posts: 594 ✭✭✭Dazzy


    Can anyone recommend an E27 LED bulb for use with the Gen 1 dimmer? The compatable list on the LightwaveRF site is a little out of date and its difficult to source some of the recommendations.


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    #87
    Stoner
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    I just did a refresh on lightwaverf on Google home, gained 10 devices, all my radiator are now my home assistant screen,

    I have temp feedback from each one and can turn them on and off.

    Delighted, nothing like a free upgrade.

    To think when I bought the first set of these TVRs that Eco and Google home didn't even exist, now i have more or less all my iot devices on home assistant with very little input from me.

    Hopefully it won't change when "works with nest" goes out the window, it shouldn't

    Edit.

    Full voice control too.

    I get the current temp in the room, the temp I've set the TRV to in the lightwaverf app, then I have a heat mode drop down with "on and off " options.

    Recently I got the nest gen 3 installed. So I took out the lightwaverf stat controller.

    So I can't comment on it. I'm running nest and lightwaverf together, only issue is the voice control in the kitchen where there is a smart TRV and a nest stat. They both turn off when you turn the heating off as I've a Google home in there, the instruction is cut down and encapsulates both devices


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    #88
    comfort
    Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭comfort


    Hi there,

    I was delighted to see this thread and read with great interest.
    I have eventually started adding Lightwaverf and purchased the starter kit which has the hub, Single light switch (dimmerable) and a double socket. I am using my small office as the test project for automation etc.

    I am already confused with regards to fitting the light switch. I turned off the power to light switches and opened up the light switch in the office and see 3 brown wires (2 going to common and one going to L1) now my confusion is that the Lightwaverf light switch as a Switch Live Wire Out, Live wire In and Neutral Wire In - So which goes to which ? (Help?)

    I have stopped immediately and put everything back to the way it was (wasn't much done to start with anyway :) )

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Regards


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    #89
    darrenheaphy
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭darrenheaphy


    Here be a YouTube video :) Hope it helps


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    #90
    comfort
    Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭comfort


    darrenheaphy wrote: »
    Here be a YouTube video :) Hope it helps

    ?? No link


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    #91
    darrenheaphy
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭darrenheaphy


    Oops! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6451o5-7r4


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