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Hantarex MTC9000 monitor problems

  • 06-02-2011 6:36pm
    #1
    remoteboy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I'm in the process of repairing an arcade cabinet and am trying to troubleshoot some problems with the Hantarex MTC9000 monitor.

    The picture on the monitor looks like its way too bright. The brightness adjustment pot is turned all the way to the max. Turning it down even a fraction of a centimeter makes the picture disappear, so I've no latitude there. Not sure if there's anywhere else I can adjust brightness. This is what the picture looks like -

    IMG_0354.jpg

    I've replaced the cap kit on this unit as recently as this January, so it's not that.

    I've been using a NEO GEO test screen to calibrate the monitor but can't find any instructions online as to what I should be aiming for. This is the pincushion so far. Not sure how much of the blue edge I'm supposed to be seeing.

    IMG_0349.jpg

    Any pointers/links would be much appreciated.

    Best Regards.

    R


Comments

  • #2
    MontgomeryClift
    Registered Users Posts: 1,057 ✭✭✭MontgomeryClift


    Did you adjust the master brightness (screen drive) using a dial on the line transformer?


  • #3
    remoteboy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭remoteboy


    Hi MC,

    Thanks for the reply. The only brightness control I've adjusted is one marked Screen just below the Focus Adjust pot (see pic) -

    http://remoteboy.me/words/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/brightness.jpg

    Is there another brightness control I should be looking at also?

    Thanks.

    R


  • #4
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    remoteboy wrote: »
    Hi MC,

    Thanks for the reply. The only brightness control I've adjusted is one marked Screen just below the Focus Adjust pot (see pic) -

    http://remoteboy.me/words/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/brightness.jpg

    Is there another brightness control I should be looking at also?

    Thanks.

    R

    Thats the master control as far as I know. What your looking for is a row of pot adjusters for pincushion, brightness, contrast etc. If you can't see them, it's possible they're on a small daughter-board somewhere else. If there's a small wiring loom coming from the monitor chassis, follow it & see where it goes (multiple small wires). You'll need to reset the masters then using a dial as mentioned above, actually do this first, then when you find the pots use them for fine tuning etc.


  • #5
    yrwhu8jxtni06a
    Closed Accounts Posts: 362 ✭✭yrwhu8jxtni06a


    Workshop manual-

    http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/ARCADE/A-J/Hantarex%20MTC9000%20%2814-16-20in%29%20%5BService%5D%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf

    And repair/advice guide here- http://www.markscotford.com/DIYHan.html


  • #6
    remoteboy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭remoteboy


    Quick update. First up, thanks for the links - very helpful. I found a brightness preset on the main board and turned it all the way down which seems to have helped a little. I also found a Swedish web page with a lot of good info on calibrating monitors -

    http://cc.arkadtorget.se/monitors.html

    In the meantime however I've hit another, larger problem - all my player 1 buttons have stopped working, which makes it impossible for me to get a test pattern up. The joystick is fine but the buttons have stopped responding. I'm not sure if there's a simple fix other then re-soldering the connections. Going to focus on this issue for the next while.


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  • #7
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    remoteboy wrote: »
    Quick update. First up, thanks for the links - very helpful. I found a brightness preset on the main board and turned it all the way down which seems to have helped a little. I also found a Swedish web page with a lot of good info on calibrating monitors -

    http://cc.arkadtorget.se/monitors.html

    In the meantime however I've hit another, larger problem - all my player 1 buttons have stopped working, which makes it impossible for me to get a test pattern up. The joystick is fine but the buttons have stopped responding. I'm not sure if there's a simple fix other then re-soldering the connections. Going to focus on this issue for the next while.

    Block connector on the jamma loom disconnected somewhere maybe? Highly improbable that all P1 buttons etc stopped working due to faulty connections etc, has to be something simple. Follow the wiring from the buttons all the way to the jamma connector, the problem should be evident enough.


  • #8
    yrwhu8jxtni06a
    Closed Accounts Posts: 362 ✭✭yrwhu8jxtni06a


    Maybe its actually on the way out,maybe its finally packing in?.


  • #9
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,388 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Zechariah Yellow Sunbeam wrote: »
    Maybe its actually on the way out,maybe its finally packing in?.

    Oh no! Emo Stone is back.

    There's no such thing as packing it in with a generic Hantarex monitor and cab. Can just replace the parts.


  • #10
    yrwhu8jxtni06a
    Closed Accounts Posts: 362 ✭✭yrwhu8jxtni06a


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Oh no! Emo Stone is back.

    Talking about main tube/gun itself like on the ye olde crt tvs.


  • #11
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,388 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Zechariah Yellow Sunbeam wrote: »
    Talking about main tube/gun itself like on the ye olde crt tvs.

    That can still all be replaced with a bit of know how though.


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  • #12
    yrwhu8jxtni06a
    Closed Accounts Posts: 362 ✭✭yrwhu8jxtni06a


    More info technical support here- http://www.coin.demon.co.uk/monitor.htm


  • #13
    purplec
    Registered Users Posts: 309 ✭✭purplec


    just get a new chassis or a second hand one that has been serviced.

    Mo at videotronics will defo have one, its handy enough to discharge a monitor, I can do a video if needed just swapped a chassis on a Naomi the other night in about 15 minutes and they are a big monitor.

    The chassis that you take off send to be serviced with this guy.

    Craig at www.Giz10p.co.uk

    You will then have a back up plan for the future.

    Sorted!

    My 2 cents


  • #14
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    purplec wrote: »
    just get a new chassis or a second hand one that has been serviced.

    Mo at videotronics will defo have one, its handy enough to discharge a monitor, I can do a video if needed just swapped a chassis on a Naomi the other night in about 15 minutes and they are a big monitor.

    The chassis that you take off send to be serviced with this guy.

    Craig at www.Giz10p.co.uk

    You will then have a back up plan for the future.

    Sorted!

    My 2 cents

    We don't know if he's found the adjustment pots yet though, all we've seen are the two main ones. Could be even simpler again.


  • #15
    remoteboy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭remoteboy


    Cheers for the replies. While the buttons are out of action I can't generate a test signal, so parking the monitor issues until I get to the bottom of this.
    Block connector on the jamma loom disconnected somewhere maybe? Highly improbable that all P1 buttons etc stopped working due to faulty connections etc, has to be something simple. Follow the wiring from the buttons all the way to the jamma connector, the problem should be evident enough.

    Thanks for the advice. To be honest it's an old machine - there's a lot of rust on the connectors and the joysticks look like they've been chewed by a dog (for all I know they have :D). I think I'm gonna get a new harness and a new set of joysticks/buttons and rewire from scratch. That way I can stand over every connection (not literally).

    Actually, on the subject of such things are there any particular joysticks or buttons I should avoid? Was thinking about picking up a pack like this -

    ARCADE-MACHINE-JOYSTICK-16-BUTTONS-SET-MAME-JAMMA

    I'll keep updating this post for anyone that's interested and in the meantime I've started a blog about it all - http://remoteboy.me/words/

    Thanks again.

    R


  • #16
    DynamiteDan
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭DynamiteDan


    Apologies for digging up this old thread, but did you manage to resolve the issue where the top third of the screen was displaying differently spaced scanlines to the rest of the screen?

    I've got exactly the same problem with my Hantarex. I was hoping to PM you about it, but the board rules mean I can't PM until I have 20 posts.

    Many thanks!

    Rob


  • #17
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    DynamiteDan wrote: »
    Apologies for digging up this old thread, but did you manage to resolve the issue where the top third of the screen was displaying differently spaced scanlines to the rest of the screen?

    I've got exactly the same problem with my Hantarex. I was hoping to PM you about it, but the board rules mean I can't PM until I have 20 posts.

    Many thanks!

    Rob

    Those people might not be alive anymore.
    Do you have a picture of the issue?


  • #18
    DynamiteDan
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭DynamiteDan


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Those people might not be alive anymore.
    Do you have a picture of the issue?

    The original creator of this thread continues to be an active member of these boards, but I'm unable to contact him at present due to my small number of posts.

    I've uploaded a photo of the issue here:

    (You'll need to remove the dashes. I had to put those in as the boards won't let me post a URL as I'm a new user)

    h-t-t-p-s-:-/-/-w-w-w-.-d-r-o-p-b-o-x-.-c-o-m-/-s-/-0-o-4-0-6-m-s-5-3-g-z-e-r-u-g-/-P-u-z-z-l-e-B-o-b-b-l-e-.-j-p-g-?-d-l-=-0

    The monitor chassis has been re-capped, and the chassis has been sent off and tested on another monitor, with this issue not showing up.

    I've contacted Hantarex for advice/suggestions, but they've not responded.

    I'm wondering if I should next turn my attention to replacing the PSU. I've already moved the PCBs over to a switching PSU as the boards stopped kicking out sound, so wonder if the next step is to ditch the US250 and put in something more modern. (Any suggestions?)

    Many thanks for any help/advice!


  • #19
    TechnoFreek
    Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Who did the recap and test?

    If it's wasn't gunblae/grantspain over on jamma plus/arcade otaku, I'd create a post on one of those forums. He's a monitor guru and responds to most monitor queries.


  • #20
    DynamiteDan
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭DynamiteDan


    TechnoFreek wrote: »
    Who did the recap and test?

    If it's wasn't gunblae/grantspain over on jamma plus/arcade otaku, I'd create a post on one of those forums. He's a monitor guru and responds to most monitor queries.

    Grant did the recap and test. He's been absolutely brilliant with advice, testing and a LOT of patience.


  • #21
    TechnoFreek
    Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    So does grant have no answer at all or is he saying it's the monitor?


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  • #22
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    TechnoFreek wrote: »
    So does grant have no answer at all or is he saying it's the monitor?

    Heres that pic after painstakingly removing all those dashes.

    I would also be interested in Grants theories


  • #23
    TechnoFreek
    Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Heres that pic after painstakingly removing all those dashes.

    Fair play for doing that
    eddhorse wrote: »
    I would also be interested in Grants theories

    Yeah, same here. I'm no monitor expert but Grant is. If he says it's the monitor then it most likely is. In fact I'm surprised he can't tell you exactly what the issue is right down to a technical level. How recently was the chassis serviced?

    Ideal scenario is for DynamiteDan to test his chassis on a compatible monitor himself. I wonder could mitch help here with supplying one?


  • #24
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Yeah that would be best. Or if someone else has a hanty?
    Im sure Grant would though when he had it.


  • #25
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Where you based?I might be a able to test your chassis.


  • #26
    remoteboy
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭remoteboy


    DynamiteDan wrote: »
    The original creator of this thread continues to be an active member of these boards, but I'm unable to contact him at present due to my small number of posts.

    Hi Dan,

    Good to hear from you. Still here but haven't been on the Arcade & Retro thread in a few years. Had a hectic few years with work and health and the arcade machine took a back seat. Sat down this morning to try to get back into it and realised I hadn't a clue where to start. Googled around and found this thread. :)

    Never got any further with the issues I was having. Bought a new harness so I could rewire everything and a new switching supply (just for the PCB). Figured I'd leave the monitor on the US250. With the benefit of hindsight I reckon the tube is probably damaged - I recapped the monitor and it made no difference. Considering replacing the monitor with something more modern (and less likely to electrocute me) but would miss that lovely warm CRT picture.


  • #27
    CathalDublin
    Registered Users Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭CathalDublin


    Out of interest if you make the screen really small does the problem go away?
    I has loads of strange picture issues with my Hanterex Polo 21 which was bought brand new from Hanterex a couple years back. Wavy vertical lines on ones side of the monitor, out of focus on the edges of the screen.
    Eventually I decided to spend a couple hours on it recently.
    I made the picture a small square in the middle of the screen and slowly adjusted everything using a mirror to see the picture as I adjusted until the picture was perfect the and any imperfections were gone, I then increased the width/height


  • #28
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,948 ✭✭✭Doge


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Heres that pic after painstakingly removing all those dashes.

    I would also be interested in Grants theories

    Copy and paste to notepad, edit -> replace "-" with "" ;)

    Job done! :)


  • #29
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Doge wrote: »
    Copy and paste to notepad, edit -> replace "-" with "" ;)

    Job done! :)

    Not so easy on the phone...


  • #30
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,948 ✭✭✭Doge


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Not so easy on the phone...

    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rhmsoft.edit icon14.png

    :pac:


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  • #31
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Doge wrote: »
    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rhmsoft.edit icon14.png

    :pac:

    Thanks for future reference


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