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MDF Bedroom Wall Panels what paint to use?

  • 23-11-2020 4:40pm
    #1
    briancarr82
    Registered Users Posts: 313 ✭✭


    Hi All, planning on doing some mdf strip wall panels at the weekend. I will glue to wall, and prime with zinisser bin. Just wondering after that can i use the same paint as i am on the actual wall? see photot for look i'm after


Comments

  • #2
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    Zinsser bin primer is a good idea, because MDF releases some harsh gases over an initial period which can last long. If you want that look, spraying is a good idea if you can do it. If you don't have a compressor and paint gun, You need a short nap roller, 5mm as much as possible and roll over your cutting brush to hide the brushstrokes as quick as you can. Do all your cutting and rolling on successive panels, and roll the raised mouldings at the end. Repeat a couple of coats of finish after your one coat of primer.

    Are you using the Acrylic waterborne primer? I would recommend that one, don't use the shellac or oil based one, they might leave an imprint.


    Remember that if you are not shooting, the glossier the paint, the more you will see brushstrokes. In that case, if you want to give it a "classic look", you can use a big brush to paint in one direction and that will take care of it.

    If you want a more contemporary effect, you can choose an eggshell finish to reduce the visual impact of a glossier paint when using a brush.

    Don't go full matte paint, though, unless using an off white of very light color. If you used something similar to your sample photograph, the matte paint when touching it would leave finger marks. That is especially problematic when using black or very dark colo(u)rs.


  • #3
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    Zinsser bin primer is a good idea, because MDF releases some harsh gases over an initial period which can last long. If you want that look, spraying is a good idea if you can do it. If you don't have a compressor and paint gun, You need a short nap roller, 5mm as much as possible and roll over your cutting brush to hide the brushstrokes as quick as you can. Do all your cutting and rolling on successive panels, and roll the raised mouldings at the end. Repeat a couple of coats of finish after your one coat of primer.

    Are you using the Acrylic waterborne primer? I would recommend that one, don't use the shellac or oil based one, they might leave an imprint.


    Remember that if you are not shooting, the glossier the paint, the more you will see brushstrokes. In that case, if you want to give it a "classic look", you can use a big brush to paint in one direction and that will take care of it.

    If you want a more contemporary effect, you can choose an eggshell finish to reduce the visual impact of a glossier paint when using a brush.

    Don't go full matte paint, though, unless using an off white of very light color. If you used something similar to your sample photograph, the matte paint when touching it would leave finger marks. That is especially problematic when using black or very dark colo(u)rs.

    You are telling OP that BIN primer is a good idea,
    But then advise them to use Acrylic primer and not to use Shellac primer. (confused)

    What gasses does MDF release over a long period?


  • #4
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    Formaldehyde and all kinds of crap in the glue. The adhesives are in powder form much like the fibers that make up the panels. MDF is a pretty wicked product when it is cut and the fine dust decorates your lungs.


    Zinsser makes 3 kinds of primers; watwrborne acrylic, alkyd resin and white pigmented shellac, which is the most expensive. They all have specific uses and are all quite good. I suggest using the waterborne for ease of use in that particular case.


  • #5
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    Formaldehyde and all kinds of crap in the glue. The adhesives are in powder form much like the fibers that make up the panels. MDF is a pretty wicked product when it is cut and the fine dust decorates your lungs.


    Zinsser makes 3 kinds of primers; watwrborne acrylic, alkyd resin and white pigmented shellac, which is the most expensive. They all have specific uses and are all quite good. I suggest using the waterborne for ease of use in that particular case.

    Oh right, so its dust particles as opposed to "gas" that you are referring to.
    But you actually said that gasses can persist for a long period of time.
    No doubt that certain care should be taking when cutting MDF, but if you wear a dust mask and have good ventilation, there shouldn't be much of an issue.

    The shellac based would be a far better option for MDF as waterbased primers can absorb into and "blow" the fibers of the timber, which will make it harder to get a smooth finish.
    Also using "bin" will allow you to sand the edges to a smoother finish.


  • #6
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    Ceepo wrote: »
    Oh right, so its dust particles as opposed to "gas" that you are referring to.
    But you actually said that gasses can persist for a long period of time.
    No doubt that certain care should be taking when cutting MDF, but if you wear a dust mask and have good ventilation, there shouldn't be much of an issue.

    The shellac based would be a far better option for MDF as waterbased primers can absorb into and "blow" the fibers of the timber, which will make it harder to get a smooth finish.
    Also using "bin" will allow you to sand the edges to a smoother finish.


    No, it is both dust and gas released from this material. I have some in my house too. I worked with this material a lot, epsecially in scenic construction. It does have cancer causing elements, well recognized.

    Of course, if you don't mind using the shellac based Zinsser, it is fine. If you have small children, or can be incommodated from the fumes, it is not the greatest. If you need the job to be as smooth as a baby's arse, it is worth priming with the shellac base, if not, no. The reason is that unless you bring it to a level where you shoot the finish, it is not worth the cost effort and pain of breathing in the stuff. There.


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  • #7
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,843 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    I would prime, paint, and sand the edges before fitting, with just the topcoat after fitting


  • #8
    dok_golf
    Registered Users Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    Easiest thing is to BIN them. any wb product risks raising the fibres


  • #9
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    No, it is both dust and gas released from this material. I have some in my house too. I worked with this material a lot, epsecially in scenic construction. It does have cancer causing elements, well recognized.

    Of course, if you don't mind using the shellac based Zinsser, it is fine. If you have small children, or can be incommodated from the fumes, it is not the greatest. If you need the job to be as smooth as a baby's arse, it is worth priming with the shellac base, if not, no. The reason is that unless you bring it to a level where you shoot the finish, it is not worth the cost effort and pain of breathing in the stuff. There.

    You would have to wonder why it has used throughout the world if this is the case.

    Not sure what the "There" is meant to be.
    As Bin primer is alcohol based any "fumes" disappears very quickly.
    If OP wants a good finish, then using Bin is the best way to achive it.


  • #10
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    You don't need to worry about edges on those panels because they are maybe a half inch deep, and you won't perceive the raised fibers. If it's a big bother, just paint the edges with a white shellac primer, and the flats with waterbased. But it's not worth it. Even priming with this, you need a lot of coats and sanding to get rid of texture, which in this case won't be perceptible because the edges are small and flat.


  • #11
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,843 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    You don't need to worry about edges on those panels because they are maybe a half inch deep, and you won't perceive the raised fibers. If it's a big bother, just paint the edges with a white shellac primer, and the flats with waterbased. But it's not worth it. Even priming with this, you need a lot of coats and sanding to get rid of texture, which in this case won't be perceptible because the edges are small and flat.

    Not sanding the edges would be a botch job, over time dust would settle on the horizontal edges, and be hard to remove, if there not smooth.


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  • #12
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    You don't need to worry about edges on those panels because they are maybe a half inch deep, and you won't perceive the raised fibers. If it's a big bother, just paint the edges with a white shellac primer, and the flats with waterbased. But it's not worth it. Even priming with this, you need a lot of coats and sanding to get rid of texture, which in this case won't be perceptible because the edges are small and flat.

    Holy wowzer... "you dont need to worry about the edges" Are you serious?
    Glad im not getting you to do work in my home, and I hope you don't charge people to do that type of work. :/
    As pointed out, not sanding the edges would be a botch job.
    It might be alright for "scenery" pieces. But not for finished timer work in a home.

    One coat of BIN primer should be enough, and while there will be some work to sand it the 1st time, it will on need a light rub between further coats.


  • #13
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    Ceepo wrote: »
    Holy wowzer... "you dont need to worry about the edges" Are you serious?
    Glad im not getting you to do work in my home, and I hope you don't charge people to do that type of work. :/
    As pointed out, not sanding the edges would be a botch job.
    It might be alright for "scenery" pieces. But not for finished timer work in a home.

    One coat of BIN primer should be enough, and while there will be some work to sand it the 1st time, it will on need a light rub between further coats.

    Lol. What's this wowzer about?

    I told you why those edges don't need binning in this particular context.

    No need to get personal, go get some experience instead.


  • #14
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    Lol. What's this wowzer about?

    I told you why those edges don't need binning in this particular context.

    No need to get personal, go get some experience instead.

    I've plenty of experience ;)

    MDF timber moulding, BIN primed, sanded between each coat.
    Some of the high quality work I have been doing for over 20 years.



    Feel free at point to ask for advice!


  • #15
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Ceepo wrote: »
    I've plenty of experience ;)

    MDF timber moulding, BIN primed, sanded between each coat.
    Some of the high quality work I have been doing for over 20 years.



    Feel free at point to ask for advice!

    MDF timber panal and arch on hall stairs and landing.
    MDF and red deal open and closing window shutters.

    All Bin primed. And sanded between coats..

    As i said I've plenty of experience ;)


  • #16
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,642 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    You don't need to worry about edges on those panels because they are maybe a half inch deep, and you won't perceive the raised fibers.

    If you leave the edges rough, you'll end up with a finish like velcro. Ideal if you're looking for a permanent stuck-dust feature in the bedroom.


  • #17
    Johnthemanager
    Registered Users Posts: 250 ✭✭Johnthemanager


    Ceepo wrote: »
    MDF timber panal and arch on hall stairs and landing.
    MDF and red deal open and closing window shutters.

    All Bin primed. And sanded between coats..

    As i said I've plenty of experience ;)

    Very nice.


  • #18
    Kaybaykwah
    Registered Users Posts: 3,083 ✭✭✭Kaybaykwah


    Great job!

    Keep on plugging til you wake up to the fact you don’t need bin for that particular job, because of the lack of raised edges.

    Just watch the movie ‘White House Down’ , the massive White House sets I worked on as a scenic painter. Among the sets, Two Oval Offices, one for a stunt and the other for formal scenes, with superlative level of finishes. I have used bin over pieces that were meant to look like molded plastics and metals like aircraft seats, etc... for 30 years, it’s all about choosing where you absolutely need it, like straight shellac, among other stuff.

    Some of the new varnishes are amazing, the water and alkyd hybrids you can roll and flatten with a wide brush on a large surface for a fraction of the time it would take to set up either oil or water based.


  • #19
    Ceepo
    Registered Users Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    Kaybaykwah wrote: »
    Great job!

    Keep on plugging til you wake up to the fact you don’t need bin for that particular job, because of the lack of raised edges.

    Just watch the movie ‘White House Down’ , the massive White House sets I worked on as a scenic painter. Among the sets, Two Oval Offices, one for a stunt and the other for formal scenes, with superlative level of finishes. I have used bin over pieces that were meant to look like molded plastics and metals like aircraft seats, etc... for 30 years, it’s all about choosing where you absolutely need it, like straight shellac, among other stuff.

    Some of the new varnishes are amazing, the water and alkyd hybrids you can roll and flatten with a wide brush on a large surface for a fraction of the time it would take to set up either oil or water based.

    Great for you.

    But you completely lost me when you said not to sand the edges.


    I don't see much point in continuing going around the roundabout tbh.

    So ill let you back to your superlative "all be it subjective" finish scenic pieces.


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