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Woodshavings (general woodworking chat thread)

245

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    did they offer light at the end of the tunnel.

    i have a bit of root from a holly tree on the lathe at the moment. i think it's actually kryptonite, not holly, i don't recall ever turning anything as hard as this.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    They offered a Nova SN with a na adaptor that has to be passed on to someone else
    for machining to fit my lathe. More messing.

    Making inquiries now on a Vicmark or Oneway chuck, thats all ready to fit.

    I turned loads of holly years back, but not the root.

    All above ground holly was as soft as butter, and very unstable.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Current methgd of holding is a 3 jaw chuck backplate, screwed to the bowl base.
    For obvious reasons its totally unsuitable, but all I have at the moment.

    531359.JPG

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    531361.JPG

    Recent monkey puzzle bowls.
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=531362&stc=1&d=1604242086

    Bowl in progress rough turned and not finished.
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    531362.JPG


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Contacted by Dave Chapman Mytools.ie.

    He says he has never heard of M39 4 pitch, so he cannot help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭bamayang


    Ah just buy a Vicmarc now and be done with it!! :)


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    bamayang wrote: »
    Ah just buy a Vicmarc now and be done with it!! :)

    Already contacted them, and waiting for a reply:P


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Dave Chapman says Vicmark are M33 pitch 3.5

    so its not suitable....


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    I’ve a slab of Irish Yew that I’m in the middle of making into a coffee table. I’m just wondering what’d be the best finish for it?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Last piece of yew sculpture i worked on I gave it 8 coats of danish oil, wiped on.

    I think it enriches the grain very well.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Lovely shine off that. Was it just from Danish oil:eek:

    I mustn't be using it correctly :o


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    iamtony wrote: »
    Lovely shine off that. Was it just from Danish oil:eek:

    I mustn't be using it correctly :o

    Wipe on plenty. Leave it for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
    Leave it in a warm room for 3 hours, and apply another coat, leave for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
    leave in a warm room for 12 hours, and apply another coat, not excessively.
    Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.

    Yes its danish oil only on that piece, and if you are polishing yew, you should get a similar finish after 7-8 coats.

    But other timbers may require more coats, depending on density of timber.

    What are you polishing??


  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Romer


    So I've got a mitre saw on the way and have a question I probably already know the answer to but just want confirmation. It's billed as a 254mm which is 10 inch. Now the first thing I want to do is change the 24 tooth blade because I think that's pointless (geddit?) on a mitre saw. But as I'm browsing replacement blades, 10 inch blades in Europe seem to go anywhere from 250-255mm.

    Question is, I'm good to get anything in that range right?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Romer wrote: »
    So I've got a mitre saw on the way and have a question I probably already know the answer to but just want confirmation. It's billed as a 254mm which is 10 inch. Now the first thing I want to do is change the 24 tooth blade because I think that's pointless (geddit?) on a mitre saw. But as I'm browsing replacement blades, 10 inch blades in Europe seem to go anywhere from 250-255mm.

    Question is, I'm good to get anything in that range right?


    Personally I would try to stay as close as possible to manufacturers recommended blade & kerf size, my thinking would be that it would be best to use a similar blade to what the saws motor rating, torque and rpm were designed for. 1-2 mm either way should not make much of a difference, I would try and keep the kerf size the same.


    If the saw manufacturer is a bit saucy on the pricing, there are plenty of third party manufacturers like Trend and Freud etc, that would have an exact match of a blade. Have a look here.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    kadman wrote: »
    Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.
    do you rub it down at all between coats?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    kadman wrote: »
    Wipe on plenty. Leave it for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
    Leave it in a warm room for 3 hours, and apply another coat, leave for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
    leave in a warm room for 12 hours, and apply another coat, not excessively.
    Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.

    Yes its danish oil only on that piece, and if you are polishing yew, you should get a similar finish after 7-8 coats.

    But other timbers may require more coats, depending on density of timber.

    What are you polishing??
    nothing fancy or anything I've just used it on bits and pieces I've made. Mostly timber I've planed and sanded from rough wood myself, softwoods usually but recently a bit of mahogany Usually I use it for colour and then overcoat it with spray laquer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Romer


    glynf wrote: »
    Personally I would try to stay as close as possible to manufacturers recommended blade & kerf size, my thinking would be that it would be best to use a similar blade to what the saws motor rating, torque and rpm were designed for. 1-2 mm either way should not make much of a difference, I would try and keep the kerf size the same.


    If the saw manufacturer is a bit saucy on the pricing, there are plenty of third party manufacturers like Trend and Freud etc, that would have an exact match of a blade. Have a look here.

    Thanks for that link. https://www.sautershop.com/circular-saw-blade-set-the-reds-254-set-3x254-30 is exactly what I was looking for.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
    i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
    i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?

    It might weep bar oil a bit depending on how the pump works, but just leave the scabbard on it and it’ll generally be fine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
    i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?

    Normally just leave them under the bench on their flat. Usually a small bit of leakage. Their used often enough there’s not much.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    How many of you woodturners out there are using grinders with CBN wheels.

    Is there a supplier in Ireland, or UK. Any advice welcome, thanks.

    K


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
    i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?
    long term storage
    I drain the petrol 100% and run it till it stops, then remove the plug and spray a bit of lube oil in and pull the cord a few times.
    I put and old cloth under it, stored flat

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭bamayang


    Anyone know if the carpentry store are open at the minute or will they be after level 5?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    one thing i need to get is a rubber mat to stand on out in the shed, when you're turning you tend to spend a lot of time standing without an awful lot of moving around.

    i was thinking an agricultural supply place would be the best place to go looking for something like that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,786 ✭✭✭Doctors room ghost


    one thing i need to get is a rubber mat to stand on out in the shed, when you're turning you tend to spend a lot of time standing without an awful lot of moving around.

    i was thinking an agricultural supply place would be the best place to go looking for something like that?



    Keep eye on DoneDeal for a lad selling cow mats from a cubical.one of them would be perfect


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    cheers; twice in the last year or two i've had inflammation in my second toe (on both feet) and only in the second toe; the first time was on a very cold night so i thought it might have been chilblains, but it happened again recently. so i suspect it's just a circulation thing, i probably need to walk around a bit every half hour or so.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    one thing i need to get is a rubber mat to stand on out in the shed, when you're turning you tend to spend a lot of time standing without an awful lot of moving around.

    i was thinking an agricultural supply place would be the best place to go looking for something like that?

    the ones for horses are thicker and softer


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    one thing i need to get is a rubber mat to stand on out in the shed, when you're turning you tend to spend a lot of time standing without an awful lot of moving around.

    i was thinking an agricultural supply place would be the best place to go looking for something like that?

    I have astroturf on mine. I got a roll of it for nothing. It’s painful stuff to keep clean, but it feels nice on a the feet.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,978 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    lidl have lathes in stock again.

    i learned of a new way of holding the tool, simply from the packaging.

    534416.jpg

    i think that is a 'i'm going to stand as physically far away from this POS machine as i can' grip.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    German quality. RIP.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    lidl have lathes in stock again.

    i learned of a new way of holding the tool, simply from the packaging.

    534416.jpg

    i think that is a 'i'm going to stand as physically far away from this POS machine as i can' grip.

    oooh, run forrest.

    I remember tackling Lidl or Alldi, cant remember which, over a similar safety aspect pictured in a catalogue.

    I pointed out a long list of accidents waiting to happen, should some new tool owner adopt a working stance same as their catalogue.

    Their excuse was, " its only a model, and the machine was not turned on ". I blew a major gasket and suggested that selling woodworking machines requires a picture of a competent user , using it.

    My protestations fell on deaf ears, maybe an e mail to Health and safety in Ireland. Mmmmm


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