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Homebrew Beer Howto

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    conor_mc wrote:
    What I meant by timing the end of the fermentation was that in a sealed fermentation barrel with an airlock, you could see CO2 escaping hence could see when this process was slowing down.

    I understand, and there's nothing wrong with it. But there's also nothing wrong with the loose lid method.

    conor_mc wrote:
    Safer as a guide rather than syphoning out a sample to test with a hydrometer each day.... but now that I think of it, is that necessary or can I just dip the sanitised hydrometer in the bin directly?

    Get yourself a turkey baster/wine thief (same thing, different name) in either a kitchen shop or homebrew shop. I sanatize this with boiling water, and take my sample into a glass to take a hydro reading. Don't return the beer to the fermenter, though. It's good to have a taste, in the interest of quality control.



    conor_mc wrote:
    Which brings me to my final question - secondary fermentation. I have the bin for my primary, and a keg for storing, so should I just keg it with the required amount of sugar for pressurisation, or should I try to rack it from the bin into the keg temporarily, and back into the bin for a secondary fermentation after a quick sanitisation?

    You'll make good beer without a secondary, but it is good practice to do one. In your circumstance you could skip the secondary, and just prime in the barrel. Leave it in there a couple of weeks for some conditioning. I don't like the idea of syphoning over and back (even though people do it), so I would avoid it, or get yourself another brewing bin.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Cheers noby, very useful stuff. I'll try get my hands on a turkey baster/wine thief so. Failing that, I guess 2/3 dips with the sanitised syphon tube and a finger over the top end should get enough out for a sample.

    I'll skip the secondary this time I think. Maybe if I buy a fermentation barrel as mentioned, I'll rack from that into the bin next time.

    Thanks again for the help lads - I'll let you know how it goes.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    noby, the turkey baster was a brilliant idea, worked a treat. Come to think of it, part of my problem on my first attempt may have been that I was lifting the bin up onto a worktop daily to syphon out samples, thus disturbing the carbon dioxide layer and opening the brew to contamination.

    Also had a wee taste last night - early days yet and the beer is still very sweet, but its definitely doing much better than my first try.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    Good stuff. By the way, what are you making?


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Youngs Harvest Pilsner - trying to keep it cheap and cheerful until I "graduate"!!!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    Conor,

    When doing a lager temperature control is pretty important as is the yeast. A lot of lager kits include an ale yeast which can produce fruity flavours - this can be great in an ale but in a lager it can taste a little off. You can get a decent cheap dried lager yeast (Saflager) which ferments at a colder temperature and produces less off-flavours. I wouldn't worry about if for this batch but it might be worth looking into for your next lager. Just make sure you ferment at the lower end of the kit's recommended temperature and you'll be fine. Lagers really benefit from aging in a secondary as it will help the flavour mellow and the yeast drop to the bottom before racking. I aged my first lager for a month before bottling and there is no visible sediment when I pour into the glass. Given that this is your first brew i don't think you'll want to wait that long to taste the result :-) but you can bear it in mind for a future batch.

    Speaking of graduating I'll be trying my first extract with steeped grains this weekend, Noby take a bow - your earlier post got my interest and I've finally got round to getting a supply of hops and grains that should keep me busy for a while.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Actually bigears, I think I may have hit the correct end of the temp scale more by accident than design.... I was actually a bit worried that it might not be getting enough heat and was going to set the boiler timer to give the room another couple of 30-min blasts a day to keep the temperature up, but I'll leave it be now. I have the bin wrapped in a blanket so its temp should be fairly uniform.

    No secondary for this batch I'm afraid, but I think I'll try it for the next batch, plus the yeast you've recommended.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    i'm sure it will work out just fine, sounds like you've got it under control. the kit yeast is more than likely an ale yeast so the lower range will probably be around the 18C mark and it probably shouldn't go too far above 20C. If it falls too far below it's minimum range the yeast will become dormant but you can move it somewhere warmer or warm the room up to get it going again. If you do decide to go for the saflager yeast in future it's best range is 5-10C and it helps to pitch two packs to give it a good start.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Thanks bigears, think a fridge might be best for using that saflager yeast. I think I'll leave it for the summer and maybe give it a try during the winter sometime.

    Thanks for all the advice lads, feel a lot more confident now that I'm doing the simple things properly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Just a quick update.

    I haven't kegged this brew yet, as the s.g. is still just above 1.010 as of last night, so it's been 9 days fermenting. That suggests to me that I got the temp about right as per bigears suggestion, since I'd expect a lower temp to mean a longer fermentation period?

    Had a small taster last night, smells quite strong, maybe a bit like a bad wine more than a beer, but taste seems to be okay.

    Also, I'm seeing a small amount of what looks like a brown caramelised substance floating on the surface of the beer - is this to be expected at this stage? Haven't noticed any ill-effects as yet from it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    It may not go much further than 1.010. Check again today or tomorrow; if it's still the same you're probably good to go.

    You may see various strange things floating on the beer. If you can't taste any off-flavours, then I wouldn't worry about this.

    At the moment the taste won't be very subtle, but the conditioning time will help sort this out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Yeah, its gone down a bit over the last couple of days so I reckon it'll be good to go tonight.

    I figured the floating stuff was just a by-product of the fermentation, it'll probably be left in the dregs after I syphon into the keg so not too worried about really.

    Taste - actually it's alright, weird to drink because it's so flat but definitely drinkable. That's about the best I'd hope for!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    Conor,

    If the SG is still dropping you may want to leave it until you get the same reading two days in a row. Sounds like you're nearly there though. The taste will improve after carbonation and conditioning; I wouldn't worry about that; at worst you'll have an experiment that tastes better than Bud.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    Looks like I may have let the temp drop a bit too low. S.G. is still 1.014 or so. Kit instructions say to keg below 1.006 so I've warmed the room up a bit and let it sit a while longer. Mind you, I put 1.5 kg of brown sugar in this one as per instructions so that'll take time to get gobbled by the yeast I suppose! Was starting to see the odd bubble creeping to the top again last night, so I'll leave it to ferment for another couple of days anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭tonky


    Hi all.
    I've been brewing for a good while, using kit & kilo.
    I'd love to try extract & hops, maybe steep/part mash.
    What's the current story on getting ingredients around Dublin, or should I order from the UK/NI ?
    Thanks & happy brewing,
    Ern.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    tonky,

    Try www.grapengraindublin.com They only deliver (no posting), but I know people who use them regularly, an dare very happy with them.

    www.thehomebrewcentre.com are base in Clare, and will post.

    With the way sterling is, and postage costs, you'd want to be getting a good deal or buying something hard to get to get stuff shipped from the UK.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    Hi Ern,

    I've not used grapengrain but they sound like a good option and i've been meaning to give them a call. www.beersmugglers.com also stock extract, they can drop stuff off in nolan's hardware shop in clontarf if it's convenient. I've had to order some stuff from the uk as i couldn't find anywhere here that stocks wheat extract and i'm a big fan of weissbiers. I found that the hops I got from the uk were stored better (foil packs) than those I've bought locally and the range of hops & grain available is much wider. As noby says though postage can be a big hit. I found if ordering from the uk you should order a big batch of stuff that will last you for a good while, otherwise the postage makes it too expensive. I haven't seen anywhere in NI, maybe someone knows? www.wexbrew.com seem to have good range of stock but he hasn't answered my emails yet :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    bigears,

    For wexbrew.com, you'll find a fax and a phone call will get you further.
    I've bought from him in the past. I rang him a few weeks ago, as I wanted to start mini-mashing again. He's been a bit out of the loop himself for a while, but is hoping to get going again. He's basically a keen homebrewer who buys and stores in bulk, and sells his stock. He was going to check his stock, but I never got back to him.
    He has by far the best range of mashing ingredients available in Ireland, when he's up and running.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    that figures. i'll give him a call next time. still haven't got around to that extract with grain stout. brewday will be this weekend.

    noby, what do you consider is the difference between steeping and a mini mash? I know it's something to do with extraction of more than just colour and flavour (enzymes?) but I haven't heard a clear explanation yet. I am hoping to add some oatmeal to the stout as i hear it gives a nice velvety finish. apparently 'mini mash'ing oatmeal is more effective than steeping it but i'm not 100% sure how to achieve it. i've also heard that it should be used in conjunction with other grains as it's not 'convertable' by itself. i have some chocolate malt, amber malt and roast barley to play around with. out of curiousity, now that you've decided to mini mash again, what will you be brewing?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    Basically, steeping grains, as you say will extract some of the sugars, and give you some colour and flavour.

    With mini (partial) mashing, you need to add a base malt (pale malt). There's enough enzymes in the pale malt to convert it's own starches to sugars, and still have some to spare. So to properly utilise your oatmeal, you should mash it with some pale malt.

    The procedure is simple enough. You want to mash your grains at about 66degC, usually for an hour. Then sparge (rinse) it with hot water. When I mashed I did it in a large pot. If the temp started to drop I gave it a blast of heat, and a good stir. I'm hoping to convert a picnic cooler to a mash/lauter tun.

    I only did a mini mash a couple of times, the most successful of which was Stout (a Guinness clone). My plan was to buy ingredients for a double batch, and maybe to do one altered one with oatmeal.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    Ahhhh. I see I have much to learn...

    I didn't know there was a distinction between base malt and specialty malts. I take it the base malt is what is used in all-grain as an alternative to extract (or the other way around). I bought several small bags of grain:

    Amber Malt, Chocolate Malt, Munich Malt, Roast Barley, Roast Caramalt.

    Now if I follow you correctly none of these are 'base malts' and therefore would not convert the starches for my oatmeal. Maybe it's best to leave it out for this batch and just steep some chocolate and roasted barley before starting the boil.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    You're right about base malt being used instead of extract in all-grain. A base malt has diastatic power, (cool name for ability to convert more than it's own starches to sugar, ie that of another grain too), whereas a lot of speciality grains and adjuncts have less or no diastatic power.

    John Palmer has a detailed explanation of malts/adjuncts, and whether they should be steeped or mashed. See http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html

    Your munich malt may need to be mashed too (to get it's full effect)


  • Registered Users Posts: 897 ✭✭✭tonky


    Thanks for the replies, guys.
    For a laugh (Australian humour) try this podcast:
    http://radio.craftbrewer.org/feed/
    also:
    http://www.basicbrewing.com/radio/radio.rss
    Thanks,
    Ern.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 128 ✭✭Hendrixcat


    Just stumbled on this thread. Great to see it. I'm in the middle of a pale ale brew and hope to rack into a couple of 5 litre demi johns tomorrow. I'm working from extract mainly. Hope to graduate to grain in a while but lots to learn from extract yet. I get my supplies from grape 'n' grain but am a little worried about the freshness of the hops. They seem to source them from Young's in Britain but they appear poorly packaged and no doubt oxidised somewhat. I'm a hop head so got some Northern brewer for bittering in the boil only to discover that the guy at grape 'n' grain had weighed out 100 grams himself and stuffed them into a plastic bag. The English sites seem more promising for foil wrapped hops but the expense of postage can add to the overall cost. Generally, I think Ireland is very poorly provided for regarding Home Brew. Perhaps with an increase of popularity in home brew and a weaning of the nation from the commercial muck that is peddled in most pubs, there will be an improvement in supplies...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 281 ✭✭bigears


    Hey Hendrixcat,

    Hops are one area where getting them posted doesn't work out too expensive as the weight is quite low. Same goes for yeast. I've used both www.hopshopuk.com and www.hopandgrape.co.uk and both have good quality/selection. All hops I've got from both have been vacuum packed in foil and they have a wide selection of dry & liquid yeasts. I'd prefer to buy the ingredients over here and if they become available I will do. I can only assume the market here is not big enough yet to carry this range as a matter of course as some of the ingredients have a relatively short shelf life. I freeze my hops when I get them and apparently they will keep a hell of a long time like this.

    The Pale Ale sounds like a nice summer brew, must put it on the list!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 128 ✭✭Hendrixcat


    Thanks for the hop advice, bigears. Just ordered some decent bittering and aroma hops from the hopshopuk you suggested. Racked into the secondary fermenters this morning. Took a little sip of the green beer; not bad and perhaps, dare I say it, a little too bitter. Never thought I say that but I was fairly liberal with the hops during the boil.. I tried to compensate for the condition of the hops, which wasn't great. Still, after some maturation I'm sure all will be well. I ended up with an odd volume left so racked a few bottles off straight from the primary. I've never managed to burst a bottle by adding too much priming sugar or bottling too early but this time I might be pushing it a bit. I don't like allowing the primary fermentation to go too long and tend to rack off early once the krausen subsides. If these bottles go, you're gonna hear it where ever on the island you might live!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 124 ✭✭oconn


    hi....there is a guy in west cork ..glengarrif homebrew center , nice fella number in phone book under same or goolge it and you get a web page with his list of goodies...he own a shop or shops in Uk and goes over and back every month....just bought a beginners kit off him myself...on that note...

    I am goin to be starting in a few weeks and am stuck for space/ worried about temp and smell. I have a brewmaker kit a 25L bucket and 5gal pressure barrel and some tubing. sanitizer / yeast/ yeast nutrient and brewmakere pils tin. Will i be ok if i brew it up as per instructions obviously and let it sit in a garden shed ( concrete walls and felt roof nice and dry but thankfully I never spent a night in there!! dont know about temp variations effecting etc...)my other place is in the hallway by the back door but girlfriend may give out about any smells as it is between bedroom and sitting room..Any help secrets / instructions are appreciated...would like to get it right first time....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 128 ✭✭Hendrixcat


    Hey oconn,

    You shouldn't have too many problems with the starter kit. I did my first batch in a similar way a few years back and it worked like a charm. There are a few things to keep an eye on though. Whether you're brewing from a kit or have graduated to full mash work, everything that touches the beer has to sterilised. I screwed up a batch or two from being sloppy in this area. Anything that comes into touch with your brew has to be sterilised. (with the exception of the yeast, of course.....) The ingredients you use, like the sugar, will be sterilised by the boiling water that you use to make up the kit. The keg you store in after fermentation should be sterilised also, but things are a little more forgiving after fermentation because during this process there are a number of chemical changes that result in the beer being a little more resistant to infection. The major change is the alcohol production (Yay!) which is antibacterial in itself and also a drop in pH making the brew more acidic and less hospitable to bacteria. I have found that the major worry with regard to infection is wild strains of yeast which live just as happily in your brew as the brewer's yeast that you add yourself. Their action can be quite insidious as they grow slowly and can taint your beer over time. I got a batch once, after a long bottle conditioning, that smelt like phenol - a medicinal kind of smell, that is typical of a wild yeast infection.

    I've probably scared the crap out of you now and you're certain that there is no way you can avoid contamination, but it's not the case. Kit brewing requires little movement of the beer, especially if you're kegging it so it won't be exposed to the air very much. This greatly reduces any chance of contamination. Give all you equipment a good soaking in the sanitiser solution and rinse it out throughly. Make sure to do the inside of the siphoning tubes and rinse through fully (I hate doing this bit, it seems like it can never be clean enough)

    As for the best place for the fermentation vessel....the shed doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Temperature fluctuations could make things a little difficult and the yeast they have given you with the kit is likely to be an ale yeast despite the fact that you bought a lager kit. There's no real harm in that but ale yeasts like to work around 16 - 20 degree C and the shed might be too cold and the yeast could get a little sluggish. In my experience there is very little smell form the fermentation vessel and you should be able to keep in indoors with little problem. Just keep inquisitive hands away from it until the fermentation is in full swing. The beer is nicely protected from infection at that stage by the foamy head formed by the yeast and the carbon dioxide, which is heavier than air and sits on top of the brew.

    I'd be confident that everything will go well and it's the sweetest thing to have your own homemade brew on tap. Let us know how you get on. I'm new to this forum but from what I've read, there are a number of guys who know there stuff here, so any questions you have could be answered, I'm sure


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 124 ✭✭oconn


    Thanks Hendrixcat
    Great stuff, I will tackle in about a month as I am in usa for a few weeks. Thanks for the encouragmen and advice....I will let you know how i get on..


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 124 ✭✭oconn


    one more thing....I plan to use bottled water can i use the 2liter bottles afterwards to store the beer as i dont have any glass bottles ? or will leaving it in the plastic 5gal keg be ok to serve from ? I thought I could fill a few 2 L bottles from the keg as I wanted to dirnk them...throw them into the fridge to chill ?


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