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Plasterboard and stud question

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  • 18-01-2021 5:51pm
    #1
    Horusire
    Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭


    Hi guys.

    Filling in one door of a jack and jill bathroom to make it a normal ensuite. I have removed the door frame and architrave exposing the stud and plasterboard.

    The door is right near a shower so to the right of the door is a mositure resistant plasterboard and to the left door space is standard plasterboard.

    They seem to be different thickness's. Id guess the thickness of moisture proof is 12.5mm and the plasterboard is 10mm. I am planning to tile over the entire thing afterwards.

    My question is what do I place over the studs I'll fit in afterwards? How will I match both surfaces ?

    https://ibb.co/JyrdMDs
    https://ibb.co/5YfLFg5
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    #2
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,616 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    It's probably 9mm board .
    . Take down the 9mm and Replace with 12.5mm across wall, old door and to meet the green board


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    #3
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,193 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    As you PB or ply or whatever is going both sides and not spanning across the ope, you are 99% certain to get an expansion crack when it all settles, I would put a vertical edging bead along the two joins and tile in-between, you wont see the difference.

    Without a continuous substrate across the new and old stud, I would not tile across the joins

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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    #4
    Horusire
    Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Horusire


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    As you PB or ply or whatever is going both sides and not spanning across the ope, you are 99% certain to get an expansion crack when it all settles, I would put a vertical edging bead along the two joins and tile in-between, you wont see the difference.

    Without a continuous substrate across the new and old stud, I would not tile across the joins

    Thanks to both of you for the input. Cala can you explain what your mean by a vertical edging bead please. Like a bead of filler or silicon in between there the new plasterboard meets the old?

    When you say you wouldnt tile across the joints do you mean that you dont have a tile whos middle is the vertical edging bead? Thanks


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    #5
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,616 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    What does the over door junction look like though? That's pretty important as it shows the transition


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    #6
    Horusire
    Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Horusire


    listermint wrote: »
    What does the over door junction look like though? That's pretty important as it shows the transition

    You must have some pain in your neck carry around that massive brain of yours ! How didn't I think of that lol

    I'll take the tiles off and report back tomorrow. Thanks for the input


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    #7
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,366 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Take off the piece above the door and re board from floor to ceiling. The plaster board will be that length anyway. Also less chance of it looking like a door when it's plastered / jointed.


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    #8
    stoneill
    Registered Users Posts: 3,610 ✭✭✭stoneill


    Tape the final joints with several strips of tape overlapping to make the transition from old to new. Plaster until transition is invisible then plaster entire wall with final skim


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    #9
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,616 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    stoneill wrote: »
    Tape the final joints with several strips of tape overlapping to make the transition from old to new. Plaster until transition is invisible then plaster entire wall with final skim

    Seems like an awful lot of work for tiling afterward .. be cheaper and quicker to throw up new board and not skim any of it.


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    #10
    the_pen_turner
    Registered Users Posts: 7,505 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    i would take all the slabs off. ply the wall and moisture slab the wall.


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