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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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Comments

  • #1622
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Big shoutout to Bandit for the repairs to my Veccy, no more random blank screens!
    Hooray!


  • #1623
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,370 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Big shoutout to Bandit for the repairs to my Veccy, no more random blank screens!
    Hooray!

    Excellent! Fancy a swap? :D


  • #1624
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Excellent! Fancy a swap? :D

    My Vectrex certainly has,
    It's swapped Vector written words left to right, but the gameplay remains the same.
    Seems caps are on the way out.


  • #1625
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    My Vectrex certainly has,
    It's swapped Vector written words left to right, but the gameplay remains the same.
    Seems caps are on the way out.

    Yep needs a cap kit, the mirrored text is a symptom of the X axis out of adjustment :D

    What's more unreliable then, Vectrex or pinball machines ? :D


  • #1626
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Pinball machines


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  • #1627
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Where can I get a metal enclosure on a budget, something suitable to turn into a NES controller.
    I'd love a NES/Fami arcade controller but just don't like the official ones at all.
    It'd be easier just to adapt one of the spare controllers I have into an arcade stick, get proper arcade parts.
    A bit like the stuff ALAN9000 makes.


  • #1628
    Andrew76
    Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,073 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Where can I get a metal enclosure on a budget, something suitable to turn into a NES controller.
    I'd love a NES/Fami arcade controller but just don't like the official ones at all.
    It'd be easier just to adapt one of the spare controllers I have into an arcade stick, get proper arcade parts.
    A bit like the stuff ALAN9000 makes.

    Decent looking build quality but it looks too small to be comfortable to use - not much room to rest your hands on and too small a base to be stable. In my eyes anyway.


  • #1629
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    Decent looking build quality but it looks too small to be comfortable to use - not much room to rest your hands on and too small a base to be stable. In my eyes anyway.

    Classic Game Room have reviewed his stuff and it seems pretty decent and good to use.
    But I see what you mean.
    I'll just have to use a bigger box!
    The search continues!


  • #1630
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    'Hammond Enclosures' are what you're looking for, they make very good aluminium boxes of all sizes.

    Here's a small range from one seller on ebay, but loads more to choose from - not the cheapest though !!

    I go idea is to mock in up in cardboard to get an idea of what size you're comfortable with :)


  • #1631
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    Any one know where I can buy these small bulbs that light up a coin mech ?


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  • #1632
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    BGOllie wrote: »
    Any one know where I can buy these small bulbs that light up a coin mech ?

    http://www.arcadeadventures.com/coin-doors-parts/

    Would they be like the type of bulbs car dashboards use?
    If so you might take a look at Halfords site.


  • #1633
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    these are the ones. GE555 bulbs. I found led replacements on ebay.
    14370427_10154552613393276_2662061941313315114_n.jpg?oh=aa2336ce5817519ce98d2d24779d3f3f&oe=58677FF1


  • #1634
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    BGOllie wrote: »
    these are the ones. GE555 bulbs. I found led replacements on ebay.
    14370427_10154552613393276_2662061941313315114_n.jpg?oh=aa2336ce5817519ce98d2d24779d3f3f&oe=58677FF1
    Got a link Ollie of the Banjo fame?


  • #1635
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Got a link Ollie of the Banjo fame?

    :D sure, "ge555 bulbs" in ebay search :)
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xge555+bulbs.TRS0&_nkw=ge555+bulbs&_sacat=0


  • #1636
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    lads #555 are pinball bulbs,
    they should be 1/2 e a box of 10


  • #1637
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    lads #555 are pinball bulbs,
    they should be 1/2 e a box of 10

    If you've a source for these at that price I'm interested .
    I did a search for GE555 and ebay came up :)


  • #1638
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    I'll send you some
    PM your address ;)

    here they are anyways at 1.70 for ten + postage but they are for nothing

    http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1739

    Edit again

    they are just called 555 or #555

    The GE must be the makers mark ,general electric


  • #1639
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    sooo. my arkanoid cab was working fine , been playing it most days but no more than like 20 mins at a time.
    played it for an hour today and it suddenly gave me this.
    14448893_10154554758138276_8911293676043179490_n.jpg?oh=c8a9036844b48f69115b2cfd04d30073&oe=583B4002

    anyone any idea what it could be ?


  • #1640
    geotrig
    Registered Users Posts: 1,713 ✭✭✭geotrig


    BGOllie wrote: »
    sooo. my arkanoid cab was working fine , been playing it most days but no more than like 20 mins at a time.
    played it for an hour today and it suddenly gave me this.
    14448893_10154554758138276_8911293676043179490_n.jpg?oh=c8a9036844b48f69115b2cfd04d30073&oe=583B4002

    anyone any idea what it could be ?
    what are your voltages like ?if too high could have fried some components ! Is the connector good and securely fitted still ? If it's a failing chip it might go ok with freeze spray used .....but if not the basics it points moreso to something failing


  • #1641
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Try and rule out the obvious problems first.

    Let the board cool down and see the if it works again
    Carefully re-seat any socketed components.
    Check the voltages on the board itself and not the Jamma edge with a multimeter.
    After the board has been powered on for a while, check the temperature of each chip with your finger. Anything very hot or cold is a problem.

    If its a solid fault then a component has decided to enough is enough and given up the ghost and will need further probing..


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  • #1642
    geotrig
    Registered Users Posts: 1,713 ✭✭✭geotrig


    As bandit said push on the chips, could be some bad connection solder joints or a damaged bent board.best bet is to rule out all the basics and go from there


  • #1643
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    thanks guys, I'll check all socketed chips later this evening.


  • #1644
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    so no luck with re seating the socketed chips. I still get the error. next I'll check the voltages this weekend.
    On a side note I was sent arkanoid blueprints, it seems they're not easy to find so if anyone want them or has a hosting site for them, let me know.


  • #1645
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    There are many bootleg versions of that so the schematics may not be a perfect match either, but ya they'll be useful place to start.

    Welcome to PCB collecting btw :)


  • #1646
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    The Last Bandit wrote: »
    Welcome to PCB collecting btw :)

    already hate it... no I mean I love it... it's horrible. in a fun way :)

    Ordered a working bootleg so I can at least play the cab while i attempt to fix the original

    looking for a supergun now, power supply, harness ...
    dammit! :D


  • #1647
    Mitchomagic
    Registered Users Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    some boots are jamma the original arkanoid was not,so make sure you get the right 1
    I have 2 working originals here if you are stuck.


  • #1648
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    So a look at the voltages straight off the AR II board shows the +5v outs are constantly shifting between +4.9v and 5.2v . When the board is plugged it this changes between 4.9 and 5v. Before I continue checking voltage down the boards, is this normal ? I would have expected the output to be constant .


  • #1649
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Depends on the power supply. Some of them will vary a good bit until a load (i.e. jamma board) is on them should stabilise then.


  • #1650
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    mm yes, I would assume there is a difference between when it's load free and under load, but it shifts a lot in both cases so I wonder if the unstable voltage fried one of the IC. In which case I should start with fixing that AR II power board first then ?


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  • #1651
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Oh its one of those psu. There linear supplies and should be stable alright, given its age the caps are probably dried out. Should be possible to hack it a modern ATX supply into it I'd say.


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