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How/Is It possible to upgrade 3 bedroom semi detached house from BER D1 to A Rating ?

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Comments

  • Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 67,523 Mod ✭✭✭✭L1011


    Some stuff pays back on a quicker scale as well as the comfort but the comfort is definitely #1

    I've an early 70s house that had been modernised on the cheap in the early 1990s - 125mm of attic insulation that had collapsed under weight in some places, single glazed aluminium windows. Was using roughly 1200l of kero a winter to heat it.

    Replaced the windows and a door with high-grade double glazing for a bit under 3k (from memory) and brought the attic to 325mm self-done for maybe 150 quid. Oil consumption is down to maybe 600l - I've not dipped the tank yet as there may still be a few nights of heating if the weather stays terrible.

    Clearly if I could afford the windows and insulation I could afford the extra kero; and I'd take a guess that the house is at best up to a C3 from an F now but its at the point where I don't see the point of any further changes to heat/air handling for now.

    I am however replacing the lighting with LED fairly rapidly as my partner cannot operate a sodding lightswitch both ways as far as I can tell - everything gets left on - so that would have some BER impact but nothing huge.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,233 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    MayBea wrote: »
    Absolutely.

    But I got an impression this is the figures the OP was actually looking for, rather than to just update the BER certificate.

    Well without seen the state of the building and the quality of the materials been used.
    Your figures are for a renovation not to upgrade the BER. Electrics don't need to be replaced. Carpet can be 100 euro or 100,000. Bathrooms can also vary greatly in price .eyc, etc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22,651 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    Supercell wrote: »
    When we bought our house (small detached bungalow) it had a BER of E2 which we brought up to a C3. The difference was like night and day in terms of living . At E2 in winter the house was warm for about 5 minutes after the heating went off then cold again. Now its hours and a gradual temperature decline. I would never ever consider buying a sub C3 rated house again unless I had the money to remedy the insulation after purchase, once was one time to many.

    To say the BER is worthless is daft, its not perfect but most definitely is a pretty good crude indicator if you are going to end up miserable and poorer next winter!

    There is a BIG difference where you do the work to your own property, you know what you've done. You've no idea to what standard other properties have been built to.

    http://passivehouseplus.ie/news/government/unpublished-seai-report-showed-systemic-building-control-failure.html

    http://www.independent.ie/life/home-garden/homes/the-berfaced-lies-our-inaccurate-energy-ratings-30257397.html

    What this means is you should not assume the BER is correct. You should assume its wrong. Then get everything related to the BER checked yourself, (r an expert) to see if the property is built to a good standard, the regulations have been adhered to. That its reasonably energy efficient for the price.

    It no good looking at bills on their own either. The previous occupants might never been at home that much, or traveled a lot. You've no idea of their usage patterns would be similar to your own.


  • Registered Users Posts: 207 ✭✭MayBea


    ted1 wrote: »
    Well without seen the state of the building and the quality of the materials been used.
    Your figures are for a renovation not to upgrade the BER. Electrics don't need to be replaced. Carpet can be 100 euro or 100,000. Bathrooms can also vary greatly in price .eyc, etc

    I don't know the quality of materials to be used for renovation.
    As I previously stated I never mentioned BER rating in my original post :
    We were given the following quote from the builder to renovate G-rated house
    .
    Carpets cannot be €100, unfortunately - the cheapest I found for a 16 sq m room was €600.
    Big portion of G-rated houses we saw did need the rewiring, as they don't reach the electrical standards such as for rcd protection, earthing etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,655 ✭✭✭draiochtanois


    This post has been deleted.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,233 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    That was my electricity bill.

    Over the heating months Sep - Mar I'm saving well over a grand, with some smaller savings over the rest of the year.

    .

    Your heating wasn't set up correctly, you could have stuck in oil of gas.
    1kwh gas= 5c. Condenser boiler approx 90% eficcent
    1kwh elec = 20c


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,655 ✭✭✭draiochtanois


    This post has been deleted.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22,651 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    Be handy if you could put all the info in one post rather than spreading over half a dozen.

    Out of curiosity why can you not put in oil or gas. Was it cost, or they won't approve it, on the ground of the impact of the modifications to the building. I assume none of the current technologies for heating, are historically correct.

    Not sure how we went from 3 bed semi to listed building.


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