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Honda CM250T ‘Restoration’ project
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13-03-2021 12:47am#1Ok guys and gals, a couple of weeks I picked up a 1981 Honda CM250T. It’s a non runner and in poor shape but it’s all there which is a bonus for such an old bike. The rust and rot are quite extensive and I’ll struggle to save some of the chrome pieces. I didn’t realize it at the time but the 250 is quite rare unlike 400T which is pretty much the same bike apart from the bore. The CB 250 also has some similar parts.
To begin with I need to get the engine running. I connected a battery and there was zero power. That turned out to be corroded fuse connectors. But when I got power on the starter wouldn’t turn. It doesn’t have a kick start. At first I couldn’t find the starter. There was so much caked on oil and dirt on the front of the engine that the the starter had morphed as one with the crank casing! Anyway got it off eventually and right enough the shaft was seized with age. This hasn’t fired up in 17 years! Got it turning slowly with the help of a vice grips and now it spins freely with direct power to it. I then tested the solenoid and while it’s clicking it’s not making a connection so a new one is on the way.
Other than that I’ve spent hours just hacking the dirt and oil off it to make it a little easier to work on. Once I get the motor running I’ll strip the bike bit by bit and paint/replace whatever I can to try and bring the bike back to it’s former glory. It won’t be concours but hopefully presentable compared to its current state. You need to zoom in on the pics to get a proper idea of what’s ahead of me!
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Took off the carbs today for dismantling and cleaning. What a b1tch with a capital C that was 😀. I stopped short of removing the diaphragm’s as I don’t have replacements and might eventually have to rebuild the whole lot anyway and it is cheaper to buy a complete set. But was able to get all the jets out and cleaned so at least if it doesn’t work it’s unlikely to be dirt. That will be it for today I think.
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Trust me I’ve a sh1t load to do without getting a scope to look for more to do 😀.They look fab, what were the innards like? Might be worthwhile wet testing the float heights on the bench but I'm guessing you have or will do that.
Keep the pics coming. A thing I bought on my last rebuild was a cheapo USB bore scope with light from ebay. Plugs into the phone and there's no end of fun, and possibly misery, to be had sending it down a plug hole and other places on the bike.
The inside of the carbs actually looked ok, nothing unusual anyway. I filled them with fuel after and they seem to be ok but I’ll be removing the engine later anyway to I can deal with any more issues then. By the way I’ve no mechanical training so any tips and tricks like this are appreciated. I’ll take everything including constructive criticism on board 👍.
Today’s little job was to put the inlet manifolds back together. They’re a combination of a kind of metal clamp surrounded by a thick rubber ring. The rubber covering the metal part is wafer thin and becomes brittle with the heat. It then disintegrates as you’re taking the carbs off. Judging by the white deposits on the metal bit they weren’t making much of a seal. The plan is to bond them back together using a high temperature silicone. This is how they are now. I’ll post how the look finished tomorrow.
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Trust me I’ve a sh1t load to do without getting a scope to look for more to do 😀.
The inside of the carbs actually looked ok, nothing unusual anyway. I filled them with fuel after and they seem to be ok but I’ll be removing the engine later anyway to I can deal with any more issues then. By the way I’ve no mechanical training so any tips and tricks like this are appreciated. I’ll take everything including constructive criticism on board 👍.
Today’s little job was to put the inlet manifolds back together. They’re a combination of a kind of metal clamp surrounded by a thick rubber ring. The rubber covering the metal part is wafer thin and becomes brittle with the heat. It then disintegrates as you’re taking the carbs off. Judging by the white deposits on the metal bit they weren’t making much of a seal. The plan is to bond them back together using a high temperature silicone. This is how they are now. I’ll post how the look finished tomorrow.
I've not done it myself but the boiling of rubber parts in wintergreen oil and water is meant to restore/rejuvenate the flexibility of em. Might be glad of it come time for installation and removal.
Keep it coming!
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A few bits arrived from Germany the other day. A near perfect rear mudguard and a pair of exhaust manifolds. The manifolds have some pitting on the inside but otherwise they’re good. Thankfully they came complete with the brackets as well, they’re about a tenner each to buy.
And then with the lights cleaned up and back on the new mudguard.
I also got it fired up yesterday. The exhausts are leaking just about everywhere but when I can get it to tick over the engine actually sounds very quiet. A mate is bringing vacuum gauges at the weekend to balance the carbs so I’ll know more then but for the moment I wouldn’t say I’m looking at a major overhaul.0 -
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You saved the sticker!
A small ultrasonic cleaners the job for master cylinders like that.
The sticker LOL, very important!
Was actually looking as those cleaners the other day. The jewelry type? Might invest in one. Could I soak it in nitromorse first to get the paint off it.
I actually have a little stud stuck in it as well but hopefully I’ll be able to get that out. Second hand ones are rare enough and pricey.0 -
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There may be better than megazip but I found more unobtainium there than elsewhere so suited me. Are all the parts you need for it available on cmsnl?
https://ibb.co/N7krddp
David silver and CMSNL are two of the only sites that quote parts specifically for the UK ‘81 Cm250t. Silvers add 28% vat and customs to the total making them too expensive. CMSNL at least quote in Euro and the postage is reasonable and no extra charges. The Cm400t is the same bike apart from the engine size and from what I see so far there are very few differences and all the parts are compatible. The cb 250n also has a few compatible parts. So CMS for the smaller bits and pieces that might need to be 250t specific and eBay for all the bigger stuff second hand. There’s a fair few bits available in Germany but the availability of the bulk of stuff is in the US. Alas vat and customs from the US. The only body part I need now is a front mudguard. There’s any amount of rusty ones for sale for around €80 but sure what’s the point in that when I already have a rusty one
. I’m watching a few half decent ones, I might bite on one of them. 0 -
David silver and CMSNL are two of the only sites that quote parts specifically for the UK ‘81 Cm250t. Silvers add 28% vat and customs to the total making them too expensive. CMSNL at least quote in Euro and the postage is reasonable and no extra charges. The Cm400t is the same bike apart from the engine size and from what I see so far there are very few differences and all the parts are compatible. The cb 250n also has a few compatible parts. So CMS for the smaller bits and pieces that might need to be 250t specific and eBay for all the bigger stuff second hand. There’s a fair few bits available in Germany but the availability of the bulk of stuff is in the US. Alas vat and customs from the US. The only body part I need now is a front mudguard. There’s any amount of rusty ones for sale for around €80 but sure what’s the point in that when I already have a rusty one. I’m watching a few half decent ones, I might bite on one of them.
Consider having a UK mte buy from silver and have him ship it to you as a package of 20 quid or whatever value dips under the vat limit? Being doing tht a bit lately actually and have a friend stateside do that with a couple prts too.
Great you can get parts, God bless Honda!0 -
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Here’s my special tool. The top of the banister post!!!!Hotblack Desiato wrote: »How did you get the dent out of the tacho?
I had to take the clock apart to get at the casing properly. Not easy as they are sealed in the factory and not supposed to be split. You bend the lip around the chrome ring and then you can split top and bottom. Took the glass out and then placed the casing, dent side down on a thin piece of cloth over the Top of the banister post. Then placed a flat piece of wood over the face up side of the casing and hit it 3 or 4 taps of a hammer. The casing then takes on the proper round shape. There’s still a little ding on the outside of the casing but I just turned it to the underside so it won’t be seen once back on the bike.
Sometimes you have to think outside the box:D 0 -
Here’s my special tool. The top of the banister post!!!!
I had to take the clock apart to get at the casing properly. Not easy as they are sealed in the factory and not supposed to be split. You bend the lip around the chrome ring and then you can split top and bottom. Took the glass out and then placed the casing, dent side down on a thin piece of cloth over the Top of the banister post. Then placed a flat piece of wood over the face up side of the casing and hit it 3 or 4 taps of a hammer. The casing then takes on the proper round shape. There’s still a little ding on the outside of the casing but I just turned it to the underside so it won’t be seen once back on the bike.
Sometimes you have to think outside the box:D
Your missus LOVES you:pac:
Brilliant work!0 -
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