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HKC Alarm with Home Assistant Integration

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24

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  • Registered Users Posts: 13 mossmaan


    altor wrote: »
    Sorry SD, that was aimed at mossmaan,

    Just trying to see if its only works with contacts (open/close) or does it work with analyzed zones, shock sensors.
    Or would it activate on a keypad panic or faults on the system.

    Sorry @Altor, my post was aimed at SD. My system is running ok, I was just trying to explain how it's set up


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Latest update:

    I have gotten the alarm status/ arm&disarm status/remote arm/disarm to work so far but the zone status is dodgy at best. (mossman you probably need to program the outputs for that, since the arm/disarm status was not set correctly on my setup)

    When I tweak the potentiometer on the zones it is so sensitive that I keep seeing all the zones flapping on/off which makes any automation off of that useless. They do change state when I open/close a door/window but they also keep switching between open/close on their own. If I tweak any further then they either stay on or off all the time, no idea why - this part should just work.

    Waiting to hear from the Konnected support guys

    @mossman, when you arm remotely does it do the 30 seconds beep/wait time? It does for me and is annoying as I would like to have it instantly armed like you do with 0#5


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 mossmaan


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Latest update:

    I have gotten the alarm status/ arm&disarm status/remote arm/disarm to work so far but the zone status is dodgy at best. (mossman you probably need to program the outputs for that, since the arm/disarm status was not set correctly on my setup)

    When I tweak the potentiometer on the zones it is so sensitive that I keep seeing all the zones flapping on/off which makes any automation off of that useless. They do change state when I open/close a door/window but they also keep switching between open/close on their own. If I tweak any further then they either stay on or off all the time, no idea why - this part should just work.

    Waiting to hear from the Konnected support guys

    @mossman, when you arm remotely does it do the 30 seconds beep/wait time? It does for me and is annoying as I would like to have it instantly armed like you do with 0#5

    @SD_DRACULA that's a pain re the sensitivity. Yeah, I had to program the 2 outputs on my panel. I have arm/disarm and the other to follow the Internal Bell...External bell was giving odd behaviour on it's status.
    I also have the same 30second behaviour when arming remotely/on my phone. I haven't tried to program it yet for quick arm but nothing sticks out from the Options. I'll let you know if I find the right set up.

    My next step is to use a Smartthings sensor to trigger the alarm when motion is detected when the system is armed. Does anyone know what Output Option I should use on the panel to trigger the alarm from the Konnected relay?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yes that is exactly what I am also trying to figure out, to trigger the alarm to go off if someone messes with my gates sensor. The relay module I have can control two different things so in theory it should be possible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 mossmaan


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Yes that is exactly what I am also trying to figure out, to trigger the alarm to go off if someone messes with my gates sensor. The relay module I have can control two different things so in theory it should be possible.

    I've got the relay to trigger the Alarm...just use another free zone, set it to Alarm (left it as normal in my case,) connect the relay, set the Alarm Out on the Konnected board as a Momentary Switch to break the circuit and trigger the alarm when it has been set. I'm using Smartthings for my setup. Was really simple in the end actually.
    Delighted!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    mossmaan wrote: »
    I've got the relay to trigger the Alarm...just use another free zone, set it to Alarm (left it as normal in my case,) connect the relay, set the Alarm Out on the Konnected board as a Momentary Switch to break the circuit and trigger the alarm when it has been set. I'm using Smartthings for my setup. Was really simple in the end actually.
    Delighted!

    Nice, and crap on the free zone, I only had one free zone (zone 8) which I used to remote arm/disarm. The 8/12 can actually take another 4 zones via an add-on board so just need to find one.

    For my troubles, it seems like the voltage on my 12v from the board is actually 18.4v (same reading at the Konnected boards) which is kind of high according to the Konnected guys. I wonder if the backup battery is causing this as that seems to stay at around 18.4v also.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    @mossmaan how did you fix the zone status issue? Tried to look at that facebook link but way too many posts to find what you mentioned.
    If you could do me a favour, can you see what voltage you get from the 12v output on the alarm panel? Maybe mine is not working right. Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Somehow fixed the sensors going crazy (maybe unplugging the transformer did the trick) but all good now.
    One small annoying thing to fix is to skip the 30 second delay when arming via home assistant and have it done instantly.
    Well that and try to find a 4 zone extender for the 8/12 board to be able to trigger an alarm based on other outside sensors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 mossmaan


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    @mossmaan how did you fix the zone status issue? Tried to look at that facebook link but way too many posts to find what you mentioned.
    If you could do me a favour, can you see what voltage you get from the 12v output on the alarm panel? Maybe mine is not working right. Cheers

    I'm actually going to check this later anyway, so will let you know.
    I'm currently trying to set up Smart Home Monitor in SmartThings but it's asking me to choose my Siren from Konnected...I'm not sure how I set this up. I don't physically control the Siren from my alarm but I'm triggering it from momentarily opening a zone on the panel via Konnected with the relay - I'm not convinced this is the optimum setup :confused:

    I'm wondering if I can connect some jumper wire to the High-Current Outputs on my panel or would it put too much current through the Konnected board and fry it? After all the High-Current Outputs seem set up for the sirens/strobe but I don't want to blow the house up!!
    https://imgur.com/GgmbRrg
    https://imgur.com/GeXgmW7


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Not sure if that is possible with the Konnected interface, it is for sure with the standard Konnected kit (the one that you actually wire all your zones/sirens to the Konnected boards and completely remove your alarm).

    Well I can tell you the boards can take 18.5v just fine and they are rated 20v so just make sure your voltage there isn't higher which I doubt.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Hey @mossmaan, any luck with the voltage readings? Curious to see what they are on the 10270 panel, might need to get mine replaced.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 mossmaan


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Hey @mossmaan, any luck with the voltage readings? Curious to see what they are on the 10270 panel, might need to get mine replaced.

    The voltage going through the 12v AUX in mine is 13.72v.

    It's the same for high-current outputs on my panel, I tried getting creative and use the Ext Bell output instead of one of the Programmable outputs to see if the bell/siren is ringing...there’s 13.72v going through circuit when the bell is ringing and between 0.5v to 1.5v when it’s idle but Konnected doesn't seem to pick up the status change. I think I broke one of the potentiometers by over turning it while testing, ugh!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Cheers, so my panel is pushing 18.5v all the time, I want to say the transformer is dodgy but I think I'll just swap it out for a 10270 instead of messing around with swapping parts out.
    Also yeah I have no idea if I messed up the potentiometers by turning them so much, they do all light up but are they working right? Who knows.
    This is getting to be an expensive experiment it seems.


  • Moderators Posts: 6,851 ✭✭✭Spocker


    mossmaan wrote: »
    The voltage going through the 12v AUX in mine is 13.72v.

    Just checked my HKC panel that I'm using to power a Konnected and it's almost the same - 13.71v


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    That seems to be spot on with the spec of those panels. No idea why mine is that high.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,462 ✭✭✭Tinder Surprise


    Ethernet version soon available which is a massive upgrade imo (12 zones too :)

    https://konnected.io/blogs/news/new-generation-of-konnected-alarm-panel-products-unveiled

    ~$199

    ..it addresses all the security and fail safe concerns relating to Wifi connectivity


    they've also upgraded the original board
    $99


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Yeah looks good though but already bought the old one now :( and I am 99% sure that none of the existing houses have ethernet available where the alarm panel is installed though. But I suppose one can tap into the 220v alarm power supply and use powerline adapters as a workaround.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 irlstu


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Somehow fixed the sensors going crazy (maybe unplugging the transformer did the trick) but all good now.
    One small annoying thing to fix is to skip the 30 second delay when arming via home assistant and have it done instantly.
    Well that and try to find a 4 zone extender for the 8/12 board to be able to trigger an alarm based on other outside sensors.

    Hey SD_DRACULA, can you tell me a bit more about what you did here? I'm having the same issue with overly sensitive potentiometers and zones flapping.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 irlstu


    I actually got mine working in the end. I moved the wiring into each zone to this port: imgur.com/a/TD2x5O2 (I can't post url as I'm a new user) as it was previously in the first port. So its now the other side of the 4K7 resistor. I then moved the potentiometer fully anti-clockwise. Also had to set 'inverse: true' in my configuration.yaml file. But its all working now :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    irlstu wrote: »
    I actually got mine working in the end. I moved the wiring into each zone to this port: imgur.com/a/TD2x5O2 (I can't post url as I'm a new user) as it was previously in the first port. So its now the other side of the 4K7 resistor. I then moved the potentiometer fully anti-clockwise. Also had to set 'inverse: true' in my configuration.yaml file. But its all working now :)

    Actually mine is still doing that crazy on/off thing. I don't have any resistors at my panel though.
    Did you add some to the red or black wire? Or how did you wire them in?
    I did order a 1070 panel anyway since I'm getting too high voltage on the 12v so hopefully that won't do the same


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6 irlstu


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Actually mine is still doing that crazy on/off thing. I don't have any resistors at my panel though.
    Did you add some to the red or black wire? Or how did you wire them in?
    I did order a 1070 panel anyway since I'm getting too high voltage on the 12v so hopefully that won't do the same

    I just moved it from red to black, which puts it on the other end of the 4K7 (as per the image in my last post). That and move the potentiometer fully anti-clockwise.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    irlstu wrote: »
    I just moved it from red to black, which puts it on the other end of the 4K7 (as per the image in my last post). That and move the potentiometer fully anti-clockwise.

    Ok it's worth a try so you moved the konnected pin that goes to from the alarm zone from red to black, then all the way anti-clockwise and invert the setting in the config file? I want to say I tried that already but without inverse: true in the config


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 irlstu


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Ok it's worth a try so you moved the konnected pin that goes to from the alarm zone from red to black, then all the way anti-clockwise and invert the setting in the config file? I want to say I tried that already but without inverse: true in the config
    Ah ok. The config part is least relevant, just makes it appear right in HA.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    irlstu wrote: »
    Ah ok. The config part is least relevant, just makes it appear right in HA.

    Tried it out earlier and no joy, same as before.
    Hopefully the 1070 panel sorts it out


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 irlstu


    SD_DRACULA wrote: »
    Tried it out earlier and no joy, same as before.
    Hopefully the 1070 panel sorts it out

    Mine is the 1070 so hopefully it sorts it out. Good luck!


  • Registered Users Posts: 20 Capt. Insano


    Rather than open a new thread I am going to ask some relevant questions here if ye dont mind!

    I am looking at adding the konnected interface system to my HKC 1070 (V3.3.4) board in order to add integration into my homeassistant system.

    I have found the install manual for the board and had a poke around, I am using 8 of the 10 available zones so I should have inputs for arming through the konnected system.

    1. I know that the default engineer code is 04567 but how do I test if that is still the code on my system?

    2. If it is not still the code, I have read that I can power up the panel with the jumper at JP1 removed to reset the system. Will that allow me reset ONLY the engineers code to default or will it reset my entire system (zones, user code etc.)?

    3. If I do get access with an engineers code is it easy to program an unused zone as an input to set the alarm with konnected?


    Here is a picture of my panel at present: https://imgur.com/a/Hs9uAO4


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I actually just bought a panel that I had to default, so yeah it cleared everything (power on without jumper)
    Enter 04567 and if if it doesn't ask you for the user code then that's not it.
    If the panel is engineer locked you won't be able to reset it yourself but some people can (and also HKC)

    You have to program a zone to type Key (not Alarm) and then wire your relay to that as per Nate's video.

    I am actually stuck at programming Output 1 and 2 to Alarm Status/Arm status, these are simply not there in my Output options, got all sorts of things, Heat, Gas, Confirmed, lights, .....

    @Mossman, what did you set those to?


  • Registered Users Posts: 20 Capt. Insano


    I entered 04567 into the keypad and nothing happened so I am guessing the installer changed the engineer code :(

    I will wait until I have a free day to mess around and I will try powering up without JP1 and see if I can reset the codes.

    *If* my panel is engineer locked, am I stuck to contacting an installer to reset the panel for me? Will they do that and program the inputs as I need for konnected install?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,227 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I got both the 8/12 and the 1070 panels to work in the end, here's what needs to be done to save people countless hours spent testing:

    - Open up all your sensors and remove any resistors (if you have any) then wire black/red wires to the last two locations on the sensor (you might lose tamper alert on the sensor if the resistors were used for that) This was the cause of all my problems - resistors
    - Remove any resistors from the panel itself (if any)
    - Set all zone hardware to Non EOL if Dual EOL/Single EOL
    - Program Output 1 to Confirmed and Output 2 to Open/Close - this will give you alarm status and arm/disarm status
    - Turn down all the way the potentiometers on the Konnected boards, carefully
    - Set inverse: true in Home Assistant config file for each zone
    binary_sensors:
        - zone: 1
          type: door
          name: 'Front Door'
          inverse: true
    
    - Connect Konnected pin to the black wire on the alarm panel.
    - Wire up one of the relays to a zone that is set to type Key and pulse Yes to arm/disarm remotely
    - Wire up one of the relays to a zone that is set to type Alarm to set off the alarm remotely


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,462 ✭✭✭Tinder Surprise


    I have an old Aritech CS350 installed

    Was thinking of adding a Konnected Integrated board, but not sure there are any programmable outputs on the Aritech to have the ability to arm and disarm the unit remotely via relay (as per this video )

    Any of you fine folk have any experience with this Aritech model?

    all help welcome


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