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Car port / shed / clothes drying area

  • 11-03-2019 2:49pm
    #1
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭


    I'm looking at starting this project early spring as soon as weather starts to improve a bit. I have a detached house and want to attach a car port / sheltered area onto the side of the house.

    At the moment there is a concrete path going around the house so my plan would be to put a concrete base running adjacent to this, screw some concrete post holders and then construct something similar to this.

    http://trialandstyle.com/editor/
    https://etcpb.com/carport-plans-attached-to-house/attached-carport-plans-myoutdoorplans/

    It will probably be a bit more enclosed.

    Anyone do something similar?


Comments

  • #2
    vicwatson
    Registered Users Posts: 28,403 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Link is to pics of bedrooms?


  • #3
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Link is to pics of bedrooms?

    Updated now


  • #4
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Have you thought about how youre going to flash the new roof into the side of the house?
    I think cutting a line with a con saw and pushing the lead in is the way to do it but I've never actually done it myself.

    cromar-wall-fillet-trim-simulated-lead-flashing-situ-32767-2.jpg


  • #5
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    Have you thought about how youre going to flash the new roof into the side of the house?
    I think cutting a line with a con saw and pushing the lead in is the way to do it but I've never actually done it myself.

    cromar-wall-fillet-trim-simulated-lead-flashing-situ-32767-2.jpg

    No though it's something I need to research more. I don't really want to cut into the wall if I can avoid it.


  • #6
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,163 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    The two links are for picture hosting sites: is this just advertising:mad:

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • #7
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    The two links are for picture hosting sites: is this just advertising:mad:

    That's because I'm trying to share examples of similar project. I'll link directly to the an example pic.

    http://joevenuto.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/carport-attached-to-house-dimensions-how-built-a.jpg


  • #8
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    The first part of the project I will need to concrete a section roughly 16 sq meters... This will run adjacent to the existing concrete path. I've been looking and seems like 4 inches thickness is about right.

    Some examples I've seen don't put down any hard core stone base and just compact the earth and then pour the concrete on. Is this suitable for irish climate? Mostly it will just be foot traffic and maybe occasional car.

    Also if I want to do this myself it seems like a lot of mixing etc. am I better getting a delivery, if so is the qty above OK for a delivery?

    I've never worked with concrete before so any tips for first time DIYer would be appreciated.


  • #9
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Small amounts of concrete aren't expensive. 100mm x 16m2 is only 1.6m3, which is about the minimum you can get delivered.

    Aside from structural integrity, the difficulty with thin slabs is that you have to be more careful with the positioning of the reinforcing mesh - the margin for error is quite small.

    It's better to do the job properly, which is to dig down until you hit subsoil, and then fill and level with "clause 804", and then use a vibrating plate compactor on that, and then build the formwork and get the concrete poured.

    Shifting maybe 3m3 of topsoil by hand is a pain in the hole to do though, particularly if you're not used to it.

    The vegetative topsoil that you have left over can be moved to other parts of the garden, e.g. raised beds.

    Also consider drainage and maybe put some ducts under the slab for future proofing.


  • #10
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,163 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I agree with Lumen here, working with concrete is not easy.

    4" on soil will not work.
    You might do what I did below, just use all concrete, getting the formwork right is a skill in itself.


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057907662

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • #11
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    @Lumen,
    How much is a delivery of ready mix per metre ?
    Also where does the diyer buy rebar ?

    cheers


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  • #12
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    @Lumen,
    How much is a delivery of ready mix per metre ?
    Also where does the diyer buy rebar ?

    cheers

    There's a minimum price and then relatively little more per m3. More than 200 and less than 400, I'd guess, for what you need.

    The rebar from any builders providers. Get it delivered with the 804, the timber for the formwork, the chairs for the mesh, and maybe a float unless you're going to improvise.


  • #13
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,163 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    @Lumen,
    How much is a delivery of ready mix per metre ?
    Also where does the diyer buy rebar ?

    cheers

    What I did was got a builder to stick an extra few meters on a truck for another job and they came and did the work: euro 350 for the mix plus the labour.
    Working with ready mix is HARD work.
    You are not buying rebar, you need mesh

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • #14
    samih
    Registered Users Posts: 2,795 ✭✭✭samih


    Depeding on your location getting concrete delivered is not that expensive. We paid 290 for 2 m2 two years ago for our garage/store project and it would not be worth you while mixing all this by hand as with delivery you've the slab cast in 30 minutes without a drama. Just make sure you order enough but not too much as you'll need to find somewhere to dump the extra. I resolved this by pre-meshing the ramp for the garage and then just dumped the spare fraction of the m2 onto that.


  • #15
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    4" on soil will not work.
    You might do what I did below, just use all concrete, getting the formwork right is a skill in itself.


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057907662

    In what way will it not work? Will it crack / subside? If I have to do that much excavation I will probably scale back the size of the project.


  • #16
    elperello
    Registered Users Posts: 14,174 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    Looks like a good project which will be a useful addition to your property.
    Just one point, take note of prevailing wind. It will blow rain into the covered area.


  • #17
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    elperello wrote: »
    Looks like a good project which will be a useful addition to your property.
    Just one point, take note of prevailing wind. It will blow rain into the covered area.

    Yeah my neighbour got something similar done and uses it for a car port. I'm more interested in the utility/storage aspect. What i'll do is make it wide enough to accommodate a car so in the future it could be extended.

    Originally was thinking 16 square meter concrete slab. I'll probably half this as it's over ambitious for a first time DIY.


  • #18
    foxy farmer
    Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    What type of roof are you planning on putting on it? I saw a box profile clear light roof on one lately and it was very discoloured with algae. Owner said it was impossible to keep clean. Not a roofing material to be standing on either.
    I'm thinking of putting up something similar here but thinking of slating it to match the house. The pitch is my biggest concern. Needs to be over 15° for slates.


  • #19
    elperello
    Registered Users Posts: 14,174 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    foxy farmer wrote: »
    What type of roof are you planning on putting on it? I saw a box profile clear light roof on one lately and it was very discoloured with algae. Owner said it was impossible to keep clean. Not a roofing material to be standing on either.
    I'm thinking of putting up something similar here but thinking of slating it to match the house. The pitch is my biggest concern. Needs to be over 15° for slates.

    Hard to keep the clear profile clean.
    Don't stand on any profile.
    You can get a "slate finish" pvc coated steel. It looks ok and is cheaper than slates.


  • #20
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    foxy farmer wrote: »
    I'm thinking of putting up something similar here but thinking of slating it to match the house. The pitch is my biggest concern. Needs to be over 15° for slates.
    Also, slates are heavy, so the roof structure and any load bearing walls need to take that into account.


  • #21
    loyatemu
    Registered Users Posts: 14,708 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    tile or slate-effect plastic sheeting?

    http://www.gusclad.ie/products/slate-effect-cladding/


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  • #22
    elperello
    Registered Users Posts: 14,174 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    loyatemu wrote: »
    tile or slate-effect plastic sheeting?

    http://www.gusclad.ie/products/slate-effect-cladding/

    That's the stuff.
    PVC covered steel.


  • #23
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    elperello wrote: »
    That's the stuff.
    PVC covered steel.

    This stuff looks good. Anyone have rough pricing per sq meter?

    Brochure from website
    www.gusclad.ie/wp-content/uploads/Gusclad-Slate-Brochure.pdf


  • #24
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,548 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Call them ? :)


  • #25
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,163 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »
    Also, slates are heavy, so the roof structure and any load bearing walls need to take that into account.
    +1

    and any light weight roof will need to be well anchored:D

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • #26
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Planning on pricing up materials today for the concrete base.

    The area is 2.4 x 4 x .2 so ~ 2 cubic meters so using an estimator tool
    • 640 kg of cement
    • 1.2 tonnes of sand
    • 2.3 tonnes of gravel
    • vapour barrier?
    • Reinforcing mesh.
    • 4 lengths (4.8) 2 x 4 for building form


    For the base how much material will I need though?

    My intention is to have two slabs of approx 2.4 x 2 so it's easier to do a bit at a time.

    Am I missing anything?


  • #27
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Started the ground work . Will post some pics when it's done.

    The ground below is quite firm solid and seems like there is already gravel after I dig about 4 inches down I get the grey/shale like material . The proposed slab is between an existing concrete path on oneside and a fence which has concrete posts in the other side and the house was done as part of a development so think top soil was just thrown on top of rubble etc .


  • #28
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users Posts: 12,163 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    4 by 2 pretty weak for this.
    see here for some ideas on formwork
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057907662

    The formwork are 5 by 2.5 and the uprights for support are 2 by 2 the site ply is 18mm

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • #29
    Xcellor
    Registered Users Posts: 2,794 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Calahonda52 wrote: »
    4 by 2 pretty weak for this.
    see here for some ideas on formwork
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057907662

    The formwork are 5 by 2.5 and the uprights for support are 2 by 2 the site ply is 18mm

    OK I have some scrap lumber that could be used for the supports. Ill go with the heavier form as you suggest.

    Ive decided on getting ready mix delivered rather than mix myself. The work required to mix having huge amounts of material in my front garden just didn't seem to make sense.


  • #30
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Xcellor wrote: »
    The ground below is quite firm solid and seems like there is already gravel after I dig about 4 inches down I get the grey/shale like material
    Might be worth taking the pointy end of a crowbar to that to see how stable/deep it is.


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  • #31
    dingdong1234567
    Registered Users Posts: 828 ✭✭✭dingdong1234567


    4x2 will be fine. I've done three different concrete bases for sheds at home. A142 steel mesh on the bottom and 30N concrete with 10mm agg. I've a 3 tonne tractor sitting in one shed and base is fine. Just make sure your 4x2 is braced at regular intervals and it will not budge.


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