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Zanussi gas cooker (plug fuse keeps blowing)

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Comments

  • #32
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,365 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Kealyboy wrote: »
    Yep you got all that right, and he’s the main currys.ie technician here in Kilkenny and surrounding area. You'd think he’d know better, I think I actually know better than him.yes it is a 6sq cable all the way. I’ll just get a replacement cable and plug and wire it back properly myself.

    That's discraceful. On the 6sq cable coming from the switch behind the cooker, you could put a single socket on this, mark it for cooker use only. Or fit a fused spur on the end of the cable.


  • #33
    Kealyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Kealyboy


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    That's discraceful. On the 6sq cable coming from the switch behind the cooker, you could put a single socket on this, mark it for cooker use only. Or fit a fused spur on the end of the cable.

    I like the idea of the cooker being wire to the cooker switch rather than being plugged into a socket on the wall. So it would be acceptable to wire a fused spur to the end of the cooker 6sq cable and then take a connection from the fused spur into the cooker terminal in 6sq cabe. Then I could fix that fused spur on the wall behind the cooker so that you could see it. Then I can still operate the cooker from the cooker switch safely. Would that be ok?


  • #34
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,365 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Kealyboy wrote: »
    I like the idea of the cooker being wire to the cooker switch rather than being plugged into a socket on the wall. So it would be acceptable to wire a fused spur to the end of the cooker 6sq cable and then take a connection from the fused spur into the cooker terminal in 6sq cabe. Then I could fix that fused spur on the wall behind the cooker so that you could see it. Then I can still operate the cooker from the cooker switch safely. Would that be ok?

    Yes that should be fine, if done correctly

    6sq ->switch -> 6sq -> fused spur -> flex -> cooker

    You can just use the flex that the repair guy fitted after the fused spur.


  • #35
    Kealyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Kealyboy


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    Yes that should be fine, if done correctly

    6sq ->switch -> 6sq -> fused spur -> flex -> cooker

    You can just use the flex that the repair guy fitted after the fused spur.
    The way he did it was he wired the 6sq cable from the cooker switch straight into the cookers terminal block:

    cooker switch -> 6sq -> cooker

    Im goin disconnect the 6sq cable from the cooker connect the end of that to a 3amp fused spur and then wire a flex ( like what was originally used when the cooker was plugged in the wall socket, picture was uploaded earlier, the flex that I stripped) from the fused spur into the cooker terminal block:

    Cooker switch -> 6sq -> 3amp fused spur -> flex -> cooker

    I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?


  • #36
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,532 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    +1 to the advice given.

    Anyway back to the OP:
    Kealyboy wrote: »
    I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?

    That is the way I would do it. The flex should be heat resistant.


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  • #37
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,365 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Kealyboy wrote: »
    The way he did it was he wired the 6sq cable from the cooker switch straight into the cookers terminal block:

    cooker switch -> 6sq -> cooker

    Im goin disconnect the 6sq cable from the cooker connect the end of that to a 3amp fused spur and then wire a flex ( like what was originally used when the cooker was plugged in the wall socket, picture was uploaded earlier, the flex that I stripped) from the fused spur into the cooker terminal block:

    Cooker switch -> 6sq -> 3amp fused spur -> flex -> cooker

    I hope I’m right? and thats safe and ok?

    Yes your way is fine. I can't believe he got the 6sq and terminated it into a cooker, I don't know how the strain relief would even have clamped over this.


  • #38
    Iderown
    Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Iderown


    Crazy how the item - the RF filter in the mains lead - which is supposed to increase the reliability of the cooker actually is a cause of unreliability. They could have used a higher voltage rating for the capacitors in the filter. Negligible increase in cost.


  • #39
    Kealyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Kealyboy


    DublinDilbert wrote: »
    Yes your way is fine. I can't believe he got the 6sq and terminated it into a cooker, I don't know how the strain relief would even have clamped over this.

    The cooker switch and 6sq cable was not a new installation, they were always there from when the house was built. The cable was just left behind the cooker and insulation tape taped over the end of it. He just then saw that there and just wired it to the gas cooker instead of using the plug and flex


  • #40
    Spooge_
    Registered Users Posts: 15 ✭Spooge_


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/110612785#Comment_110612785

    Hi, I know this thread is a couple of years old but I was wondering if you could help. I have a Zanussi stand alone gas cooker which uses an electric igniter to light the burners and oven. Everything works fine, the clock comes on and the igniter lights up everything when you push down on the gas knobs. The oven works off a 220/240v plug, the problem is, when it's left plugged in overnight, the RCD trips out. I can only flick the RCD switch back up once the cooker is unplugged. It's a weird one because if there was a short somewhere, you'd imagine it would trip out immediately and not after a few hours. Thanks for any advice in advance.



  • #41
    thebo
    Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭thebo


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118030140#Comment_118030140

    Having same issue here. Trips out randomly. Did you manage find cause?



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