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Treating oak dining table

  • 04-01-2021 8:19am
    #1
    sternn
    Registered Users Posts: 929 ✭✭✭


    We recently got a solid oak dining table but already finding it tiring keeping stain free. Since we got it, I've done nothing to treat the wood. Any recommendations on what I can do to help protect it? I've read things about oil / wax, but really not sure what to use, if anything.


Comments

  • #2
    Wanderer78
    Registered Users Posts: 28,791 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    I'm partial to Danish oil myself, but you d have to prepare the table first with a good sanding, I'm no expert though


  • #3
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,281 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    What's the finish currently on it?


  • #4
    sternn
    Registered Users Posts: 929 ✭✭✭sternn


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    What's the finish currently on it?

    Not sure to be honest. Certainly doesn't look varnished or anything.


  • #5
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    sternn wrote: »
    Not sure to be honest. Certainly doesn't look varnished or anything.

    The various wax oils like Osmopolyx get a good report but are you prepared to oil it every year.?
    I would sand it down and use a good quality polyurethane. It can be satin or even matt. The trick is to go to a paint shop and buy a good quality varnish brush. It give a much better finish than the budget Chinese made brushes.
    You have to allow at least a day to let it dry but the finish is as tough as you are going to get.


  • #6
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,281 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    any recommendations on what's considered a good varnish?


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  • #7
    fits
    Registered Users Posts: 13,246 ✭✭✭✭fits


    WE need to varnish our oak table as well. I had been keeping it covered until now with toddlers in the house but I'd like to take cover off occasionally from now on. Its been sanded but was never treated after sanding.


  • #8
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    any recommendations on what's considered a good varnish?

    Ronseal were the market leader. They make a relatively clear varnish unlike the cheaper brands which are like liquid honey ! I think the traditional polyurethane varnishes are better than the water based finishes although they need to be applied in a warm dry room.Two coats will always be needed.


  • #9
    coffee to go
    Registered Users Posts: 523 ✭✭✭coffee to go


    Personally I’d avoid Danish Oil. We were recommended to do our oak kitchen worktops with it, and while it’s pretty easy to apply, the counters turned out very yellow, almost pine-like. This was 3 years ago.

    I am now in the process of stripping them back to bare wood, sanding well and finishing with Osmo Polyx in a dark oak tint. They look waaaaay better. Unsure of how hardwearing they’ll be, but I’m pleased for now!!


  • #10
    charlesanto
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭charlesanto


    recent thread here


  • #11
    Jo40
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭Jo40


    i am a self builder and 10 yrs ago completed my home
    first piece of furniture bought was oak kitchen table which only months after had lost its finish and stained badly, after several discussions with paint shops, paint sprayers and furniture makers
    i personally decided to use ronseal diamond glaze satin water base floor varnish
    i had already used it on 200 m sq pitch pine flooring and 20 oak doors
    firstly i sanded to bare timber and then applied 5/6 coating with a 4 inch roller brushing of with a quality brush allowing 1 hour between coats and a light fine sanding between each coat
    this i also done on my kitchen worktops which are iroko teak
    after 10 yrs wear and tear i am considering doing some minor touch ups and giving all a single coating just to refresh, very impressed with the ronseal, low odour easy to apply and clean up after


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