Today I did something to my bike thread...

cletus · 29-06-2020 11:58am

Whenever I adjust either derailleur, I have the Park Tools video playing on the laptop. Even if I'm not actively following the steps, it's like a security blanket knowing the tall skinny dude with the moustache is waiting to catch me should I go astray

Tony04 · 29-06-2020 12:52pm

cletus wrote: »

Whenever I adjust either derailleur, I have the Park Tools video playing on the laptop. Even if I'm not actively following the steps, it's like a security blanket knowing the tall skinny dude with the moustache is waiting to catch me should I go astray

Calvin Jones? Many a time has he saved me from having a fit of rage and chopping up my frame with an ankle grinder.

cletus · 29-06-2020 3:28pm

Tony04 wrote: »

You should dish it... if you dont have a spoke key I'd reccomend picking up one in your lbs as they do come in handy, that's all you need to dish a wheel.

https://youtu.be/4g11lhs5l4k

This video shows you how you could dish a wheel without any dishing tool

If you haven't trued wheels already spoke nipples tighten clockwise from the tyre side tightening them adds tension to the spoke pulling the rim towards the side of the spoke, just remember that and keep calm and you should be able to dish it no problem

So, wheel building being generally considered some sort of dark art, it took me two days to get to the point of just watching the video you posted.

Safe to say Seth did not instill confidence in my ability to dish a wheel properly with no tools.

Questions, so. Is the disparity that I outlined the other day too big to overcome by dishing? Or would a good wheel builder be able to do it? Also, would I need to bring the frame and the wheel, or just the wheel?

iwillhtfu · 29-06-2020 4:24pm

cletus wrote: »

So, wheel building being generally considered some sort of dark art, it took me two days to get to the point of just watching the video you posted.

Safe to say Seth did not instill confidence in my ability to dish a wheel properly with no tools.

Questions, so. Is the disparity that I outlined the other day too big to overcome by dishing? Or would a good wheel builder be able to do it? Also, would I need to bring the frame and the wheel, or just the wheel?

If you're running it as single speed could you not lose the difference with spacers? If you unscrew the last inner nut on either side of the axle and add a spacer then replace.

Agree though wheel building is one of those things I don't think I'll ever truly have confidence in doing and I've a nice sturmy archer hub and another dynamo I'd love to try it on. I've no problem taking out a buckle but that's about it. I guess in your case it would be a mater of loosening off all the spokes on one side and then tightening the other side but spokes might be to short.

cletus · 29-06-2020 4:29pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

If you're running it as single speed could you not lose the difference with spacers? If you unscrew the last inner nut on either side of the axle and add a spacer then replace.

Agree though wheel building is one of those things I don't think I'll ever truly have confidence in doing and I've a nice sturmy archer hub and another dynamo I'd love to try it on. I've no problem taking out a buckle but that's about it. I guess in your case it would be a mater of loosening off all the spokes on one side and then tightening the other side but spokes might be to short.

Thanks for replying. I thought I'd be able to do something like that, however, all spacers on both sides are now gone to make what was a 135 axle fit between the 125 dropouts.

My plan had been to move both cones along the axle to the non drive side in order to place the wheel as close to centre as possible. I might be able to jog them a little more to the left, but I'll start running out of actual axle to sit in the dropout on the nd side pretty soon.

cletus · 29-06-2020 4:31pm

Actually, realistically, how much of a differential could you run without affecting the bike or wheel adversely

iwillhtfu · 29-06-2020 4:44pm

cletus wrote: »

Actually, realistically, how much of a differential could you run without affecting the bike or wheel adversely

It will probably be fine 6mm is nothing in reality but the biggest issue other than aligning the pads correctly will be tyre rub on the chain stay. If the tyres clear and you can get the brakes set up right I would run it and see how you go.

cletus · 29-06-2020 4:48pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

It will probably be fine 6mm is nothing in reality but the biggest issue other than aligning the pads correctly will be tyre rub on the chain stay. If the tyres clear and you can get the brakes set up right I would run it and see how you go.

See, that's what I wanted to hear. "Sure, be grand"

Time to bust on so, bouyed by validation from a fella on the internet

iwillhtfu · 29-06-2020 4:50pm

cletus wrote: »

"Sure, be grand"

The saying that's slowly but surely killing our country

Tony04 · 29-06-2020 4:52pm

Yeh as just said above the only major issue would be adjusting the pads. Ok it will effect the bike handling but probably would only be noticeable braking in bad condition.

You could possibly adjust the positions of the locknuts on the threads to get it centred i.e screw one lockout however many mm and the other one in the same amount.

Dishing the wheel would work also but I guess what's the point in messing around with a perfectly fine wheel.

cletus · 29-06-2020 5:01pm

Tony04 wrote: »

Yeh as just said above the only major issue would be adjusting the pads. Ok it will effect the bike handling but probably would only be noticeable braking in bad condition.

You could possibly adjust the positions of the locknuts on the threads to get it centred i.e screw one lockout however many mm and the other one in the same amount.

Dishing the wheel would work also but I guess what's the point in messing around with a perfectly fine wheel.

Cheers Tony, yeah I've played around with that, along with moving the cones, but there's only so much lateral movement available. And to think I thought I'd have to cut off some axle initially.

Think I'll order the tubes, tyres, and single speed kit (although I'm strongly contemplating making my own spacers, and using one of the individual cogs from the cassette)

*edit* scratch that, biggest single cog is 12 teeth

Large bottle small glass · 29-06-2020 5:02pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Agree though wheel building is one of those things I don't think I'll ever truly have confidence in doing and I've a nice sturmy archer hub and another dynamo I'd love to try it on. I've no problem taking out a buckle but that's about it. I guess in your case it would be a mater of loosening off all the spokes on one side and then tightening the other side but spokes might be to short.

Once you have your research done on correct components, have read Roger Musson or Jobst Brandts books it's not hard at all. (I'm talking 3 cross and 32/36 spoke counts not radial and 16!!)

Its just following a set of steps.

I know a man who has never read a single thing on the subject and has built 3 sets a week for decades. Rebuilds look spoke count wheels to. No fancy tools either. He is stone mad/eccentric though.

Roger Mussons book has a simple way of making a dishing tool from very basic materials.

triggermortis · 30-06-2020 11:08am

cletus wrote: »

Whenever I adjust either derailleur, I have the Park Tools video playing on the laptop. Even if I'm not actively following the steps, it's like a security blanket knowing the tall skinny dude with the moustache is waiting to catch me should I go astray

I use that video too!! I fitted a new front derailleur recently and neither of the screws seem to do anything. I can't see the cage move at all on either chain ring and adjusting both screws. They do make some difference in that the chain sometimes falls over the big ring, or always falls over so I've opted for the random sometimes setting for now.
Each time I ride that bike it does different things, so I might take the FD back off, fit a new cable and start from scratch. Or take it to the LBS and get them to do it

iwillhtfu · 30-06-2020 11:27am

triggermortis wrote: »

I use that video too!! I fitted a new front derailleur recently and neither of the screws seem to do anything. I can't see the cage move at all on either chain ring and adjusting both screws. They do make some difference in that the chain sometimes falls over the big ring, or always falls over so I've opted for the random sometimes setting for now.
Each time I ride that bike it does different things, so I might take the FD back off, fit a new cable and start from scratch. Or take it to the LBS and get them to do it

The trick I find with the front derailleur screws is to take the pressure off the cage while you adjust them and clamp off the cable as you never really get it right by just holding it and faffing with an allen key. I usually put something between the frame and cage as I turn the screw.

cletus · 30-06-2020 11:31am

triggermortis wrote: »

I use that video too!! I fitted a new front derailleur recently and neither of the screws seem to do anything. I can't see the cage move at all on either chain ring and adjusting both screws. They do make some difference in that the chain sometimes falls over the big ring, or always falls over so I've opted for the random sometimes setting for now.
Each time I ride that bike it does different things, so I might take the FD back off, fit a new cable and start from scratch. Or take it to the LBS and get them to do it

Sometimes you just need to go back to the very start of a job. Tweaking it won't cut it.

If the cable is old and you feel it's affecting shifting, replace it, otherwise I'd leave it.

Start with adjust the derailleur position for height and parallelism to the chain. Then set your limit and start indexing.

Remember, never trust the work that went before you, even (especially?) if it's your own

Tony04 · 30-06-2020 11:49am

triggermortis wrote: »

I use that video too!! I fitted a new front derailleur recently and neither of the screws seem to do anything. I can't see the cage move at all on either chain ring and adjusting both screws. They do make some difference in that the chain sometimes falls over the big ring, or always falls over so I've opted for the random sometimes setting for now.
Each time I ride that bike it does different things, so I might take the FD back off, fit a new cable and start from scratch. Or take it to the LBS and get them to do it

I've found a mistake (I made it starting out) a lot of people trying to index their derailleur is use the limit screws to make adjustments, the limit screws only need to be set once and should only be adjusted if you find your chains over shifting or if your chain is rubbing against the cage on max/min cable tension

Usally when your shifting degrades over time it's your cable kinking not your limit screws as they not screwing/unscrewing when riding.

But in regards to your problem put your bike in a stand/upside down, pull the cable to add tension then run the chain a full revolution from the quick link on your outer chainring and small outer sprocket if theres rub between the chain and derailleur cage then the limit screws need adjustment, otherwise your cable just needs adjustment by adding removing tension or if its frayed a replacement.

brownian · 30-06-2020 8:35pm

In the never ending search for the source of squeaks, I took off the forks, cleaned the crown race and headset bearings, greased up, put them all back. Still squeaking. Took off my stem [redshift suspension stem - great beast], greased all the bits, took out the plastic dampers (very dusty), cleaned all, dab of grease, put it together. Major improvement - down by 80% at least.

For ages I thought the issue was the saddle, as when I stood up, the bike quieted. But of course that also changes how you move the bars.

Moral: it's not always the bottom bracket.

That said, took off the crank to see how the BB was looking, and it had unscrewed itself a few mm again. Hand-tight just won't cut it. Took it to the nice people in the Sports Room in Wicklow; their workshop happens to have two 48.5mm BB tools. They gave it a good twist (no charge - thank you lads!). Might get my own, all the same.

Question - worth putting a dab of loctite on the BB threads? It's a threaded press-fit conversion from Wheeels Mfg.

Flaccus · 01-07-2020 10:53pm

Added a quarq sram axs power meter spider
Changed saddle from prologo dimension to fizik argo tempo
Changed out seatpost for an inline job
Replaced stock out front gps mount with a 3d printeed one that attaches under the bars
Replaced rotors with fancy sram centreline xr rotors cause I like the look
Added 2 new maxs high road 700c 28mm tires
Redid bar tape with some Enve stuff and added some powder coated cannondale bar end plugs
Had to micro adjust all the gears

Was bored. Still wfh. Till October.

triggermortis · 03-07-2020 4:54pm

I added to my stack of unserviceable rear wheels. Was going to service rear hub and freehub, but the rim is shot so bought a new one.
Still have to set about the front derailleur issues....

Seth Brundle · 07-07-2020 10:25am

Given the weather, I put my mudguards back on

Raceblade Pro's which are easy to put on and take off (eaving the fittings on the bike obviously) but this crappy weather today, I decided to just do it.

cletus · 07-07-2020 8:35pm

Cleaned and polished the new (to me) cranks. Pedals are riveted together so will take a little more work.

Before

After

attachment.php?attachmentid=519125&d=1594150526

I need to straighten a tooth on the chain ring, then I can assemble and pop them on the bike

iwillhtfu · 07-07-2020 9:21pm

Great minds thing alike although I'm not sure how much of an improvement I made

Midway

finshed

cletus · 07-07-2020 9:47pm

"What's the plan for tonight?"

"Think I'll stay home and polish my crank"

iwillhtfu · 07-07-2020 9:49pm

cletus wrote: »

"What's the plan for tonight?"

"Think I'll stay home and polish my crank"

Or realigning your ring

saccades · 07-07-2020 9:55pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Or realigning your ring

:Blush: didn't realise it was...

90% sure it's a 300 rather than a 500 (kona hahanna 98).

iwillhtfu · 07-07-2020 10:03pm

cletus wrote: »

Cleaned and polished the new (to me) cranks. Pedals are riveted together so will take a little more work.

Before

After

I'm just noticing you seem to have 3 crank arms. Also fixed your after shot very bling bling :cool:

saccades · 07-07-2020 10:12pm

Fitted new disc brake pads and some Specialized Roubaix Pro 30/32 tyres.

Need to bleed the brakes and tune the gears (might have to replace the front disc - turbo sweat has corroded it a bit).

cletus · 07-07-2020 11:01pm

iwillhtfu wrote: »

I'm just noticing you seem to have 3 crank arms. Also fixed your after shot very bling bling :cool:

The third crank is the original. Had to apply heat to get the pedal off.

I can assure you there's been no tomfoolery with the after photo

cletus · 07-07-2020 11:25pm

saccades wrote: »

:Blush: didn't realise it was...

90% sure it's a 300 rather than a 500 (kona hahanna 98).

I think I'm missing something here. Might be the wine, though...

velo.2010 · 08-07-2020 6:26pm

My 15 month old Ksyrium Elite freehub was showing cassette play. Opened it up and found the bushing had a chamfer worn into it. So, I decided to replaced the bushing with the spare Hubdoctor bushing I kept for about 8 years. My previous set of Kysriums lasted 7 plus years with the same Hubdoctor bushing and plenty of regular maintenance.

Any future problem with this bushing and I'll replace it with the full Hubdoctor bearing/bushing conversion kit; apparently, they get great reviews.

Today I did something to my bike thread...

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