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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ky Abu wrote: »
    The house has been renovated so there are now 12 rad's, whereas the old house had 6 rads. Think it was a Stanley Super 80 we had. The Stanley Donard is on offer at the moment in MD O'Shea's Killarney, €3995 which is €1000 cheaper than the retail price.

    Of the Stoves, the Blacksmith would be good so?

    If you give me the measurements in cm of the 12 rads I'll work it out for you the Kw output required on the back boiler. Some will be either double or single rads.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 461 ✭✭mk2


    Just finished installin a Boru chieftain inset boiler stove here's a couple pics!
    8055042717_00248ae034_c.jpg

    8055043855_fc46a22888_c.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭wait4me


    mk2 wrote: »
    Just finished installin a Boru chieftain inset boiler stove here's a couple pics!

    Nice job - just like what I want to do! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi,

    The install looks lovely:D

    What do you think of your new stoves boiler performance? How many rads is it heating? A review would help others.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 628 ✭✭✭albert kidd


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Unfortunately you generally get what you pay for. If you can afford the extra look at the Aarrow ecoburn Inset. reasonable quality or the esse 300 series, stovax stockton inset, stovax riva.
    A lot of the stoves on donedeal are made in China.

    Have a look at various manufacturers reviews here by owners. www.whatstove.co.uk

    Stove Fan:)

    cheers for the reply stove fan

    i was off that thinking myself:o

    ive seen a few mention the esse alright and think ill go that route..from some posts i gather you dont need a flue going from the esse up to the flue gatherer is that right?.,is it a case of sitting it into the chimney opening..do you need to fill the void left between the stove and the chimney opening on each side?

    cheers again.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    cheers for the reply stove fan

    i was off that thinking myself:o

    ive seen a few mention the esse alright and think ill go that route..from some posts i gather you dont need a flue going from the esse up to the flue gatherer is that right?.,is it a case of sitting it into the chimney opening..do you need to fill the void left between the stove and the chimney opening on each side?

    cheers again.

    No, you dont need to connect the stove to the flue gatherer providing the chimney is sound. If not it would need a flexi liner connected to the insert stove.
    jYou ust slot it in and follow the manufacturers instructions:D.
    With regards to backfilling I have read the instructions and they say being double cased you dont have to but they do say it can give better efficiency so I would backfill with vermiculite to fill any voids. See
    http://www.esse.com/support/multifuel-stoves/operating-instructions/300_install-operate.pdf

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 628 ✭✭✭albert kidd


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    No, you dont need to connect the stove to the flue gatherer providing the chimney is sound. If not it would need a flexi liner connected to the insert stove.
    jYou ust slot it in and follow the manufacturers instructions:D.
    With regards to backfilling I have read the instructions and they say being double cased you dont have to but they do say it can give better efficiency so I would backfill with vermiculite to fill any voids. See
    http://www.esse.com/support/multifuel-stoves/operating-instructions/300_install-operate.pdf

    Stove Fan:)

    that'll do the finest stove man..i appreciate the replies..hopefully be up and running by this time next week..have to get a plumber in to unhook a gas fire and ill be good to go.

    once again thanks for your time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 461 ✭✭mk2


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi,

    The install looks lovely:D

    What do you think of your new stoves boiler performance? How many rads is it heating? A review would help others.

    Stove Fan:)
    The performance is great i can't belive the heat in the house,i have 12 rads coming off it and it heats them no problem,the chieftain is 17kw output 15kw to water and 2kw to the room which is about right for me,i would advise anyone thats thinking about getting a stove in to do it its well worth it you would think the heating is on from about an hour after the fire is lit,the materials cost me €690 including pump tank and thermostat,the plumber charged €600 for the work he had to mod the flu reducer to fit and he got a plasterer to patch up the wall and he fitted the chimney cowel,and the stove and fireplace cost €2960 fitted feel free to ask any questions!


  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    mk2 I'm curious of how much heat it throws out to the room. Do you have a rad in that room and do you think it throws out the same heat as the fire or more or less heat? My room is 16x12 approx. I still have'nt got the inset as I'm worried that the room won't be warm enough.


  • Registered Users Posts: 461 ✭✭mk2


    It gives out less heat than an open fire but the gain through out the rest of the house more than makes up for it,i do have a rad in the sitting room with the heat from that and the stove its dead on i wouldn't say its not warm enough!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Thanks mk2 that probably would'nt suit my room then as its not the warmest of rooms on a very cold night. Just wonder if anybodys heard of Hi Flame stoves. Are they a British company or are they manufactured in China. They have a new inset boiler stove with 4 output to room.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 philr87


    Hi everyone,
    I'm new to here and would appreciate some help and advice regarding plumbing a stove in conjunction with our oil boiler.we're thinking of getting a stanley erin boiler model put in the kitchen.We have a bungalow.There is a standard 8 inch flue in the wall just to connect into it.The heating at the moment is run off a grant vortex condensing boiler.when the house was built we put a 1 inch qualpex pipe in the floor running from the hotpress for the provision of a stove(for the return).looking at measurements the flow pipe from the stove will be approx 700mm from floor level.I need to check the size of the cylinder but I think it is a 36x18.Its a dual coil insulated.The bottom of the cylinder is approx 400 mm from ground level.Could the flow pipe rise vertically up the wall into the attic and travel approx 5m on the horizontal before coming back down into the hotpress into the cylinder???also need to check with our plumber if our system is open or sealed or pressurised etc...All advice would be appreciated thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 280 ✭✭Ky Abu


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    If you give me the measurements in cm of the 12 rads I'll work it out for you the Kw output required on the back boiler. Some will be either double or single rads.

    Stove Fan:)

    Hi Stove Fan

    Thanks for the help

    All double radiators bar two and two Bathroom towel heaters

    1 Rad - 1200 X 500
    2 Rads - 500 X 500
    1 Rad - 700 X 500
    1 Rad - 800 X 500
    4 Rads - 900 X 500
    2 Rads - 900 X 500 X Single
    2 Towel Rads - 800 X 500


  • Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭cordni


    While thinking about getting a stove I found the pictures on this thread to be really helpful. I thought I would repay the favour and post some pics of my new stove. I'm not totally finished as I need to stain the mantelpiece and the wire hanging down is for some spot lights

    iphone4 pics 123.jpg

    iphone4 pics 128.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    philr87 wrote: »
    Hi everyone,
    I'm new to here and would appreciate some help and advice regarding plumbing a stove in conjunction with our oil boiler.we're thinking of getting a stanley erin boiler model put in the kitchen.We have a bungalow.There is a standard 8 inch flue in the wall just to connect into it.The heating at the moment is run off a grant vortex condensing boiler.when the house was built we put a 1 inch qualpex pipe in the floor running from the hotpress for the provision of a stove(for the return).looking at measurements the flow pipe from the stove will be approx 700mm from floor level.I need to check the size of the cylinder but I think it is a 36x18.Its a dual coil insulated.The bottom of the cylinder is approx 400 mm from ground level.Could the flow pipe rise vertically up the wall into the attic and travel approx 5m on the horizontal before coming back down into the hotpress into the cylinder???also need to check with our plumber if our system is open or sealed or pressurised etc...All advice would be appreciated thanks!

    The hot water cylinder will need to be raised part into the loft so that gravity circulation can take place. The flow pipe from stove needs to constantly rise from the stove to loft and then travel to the cylinder top coil connection always rising. Max ideally 4m. If you then went down to the cylinder it wouldnt work very well by gravity and I think the water would boil in the back boiler and pipework.
    As you have the return pipe routed under the floor from the hotpress the hot water cylinder would only need to go part into the loft, risen just enough to get gravity flow pipe to the top coil connection on the cylinder.

    The gravity flow should be in 1 inch copper piping due to the heat.

    You need to check if your boiler is open vented or pressurised. If pressurised a standard boiler stove can't be installed. You may be able to modify your pressurised boiler to open vented.
    There are stoves for pressurised systems but a lot more expensive and limited choice.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ky Abu wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan

    Thanks for the help

    All double radiators bar two and two Bathroom towel heaters

    1 Rad - 1200 X 500
    2 Rads - 500 X 500
    1 Rad - 700 X 500
    1 Rad - 800 X 500
    4 Rads - 900 X 500
    2 Rads - 900 X 500 X Single
    2 Towel Rads - 800 X 500

    Based on your rad sizes and hot water requirements your looking for a stove/range with a boiler rated at least 17kw.
    The rayburn that I installed would do it, with the odd thermostatic rad valves on rooms that can be cooler. Or the larger Aarrow EB series. If you have rad(s) in the same room as the old range you can reduce the boiler size if wanted as the range/stove would heat this room.
    If going for a boiler stove you need to make sure the room heat from the stove isn't too high for the room size.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 15 Katie OS


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi, I have calculated your boiler stove required and your looking at around 15kw but as you may of included rad(s) in the room where the stove will be you could probably go for a stove with a 12kw backboiler.
    I have calculated your rad sizes based on 5 large doubles and the rest singles.
    You dont say what your room size is?
    You need a plumber to visit as the open fire backboiler may of been disconnected due to an oil boiler being fitted which was a pressurised system which the solid fuel stove/boiler can't connect into.

    Stove Fan:)
    Hi Stove Fan, Have been looking at the OAK 18kw boiler stove. the boiler btu is 40600. Made by hartnetts in cork. Have an installer here looking at the house. He says it cannot be inserted as I would like unless I get a huge job done that involves basically letting the insides of the chimney down and
    widening the opening so it sounds a big job. Alternately I can put the stove out on the hearth. I also need a new cylinder, duel, and for it to be raised in the hotpress as I live in a bungalow, he also said the original back boiler pipes are too small as they are quarter inch and I need inch. Anyways basically do you think the btu of 40600 will be ok? and has anyone out there got pics of a boiler stove out on a hearth. I think I would take the fireplace out altogether as they dont look right poped out in front of a fireplace. Maybe just a hearth and a mantle? Help help help.
    KatieOS:eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Katie OS wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan, Have been looking at the OAK 18kw boiler stove. the boiler btu is 40600. Made by hartnetts in cork. Have an installer here looking at the house. He says it cannot be inserted as I would like unless I get a huge job done that involves basically letting the insides of the chimney down and
    widening the opening so it sounds a big job. Alternately I can put the stove out on the hearth. I also need a new cylinder, duel, and for it to be raised in the hotpress as I live in a bungalow, he also said the original back boiler pipes are too small as they are quarter inch and I need inch. Anyways basically do you think the btu of 40600 will be ok? and has anyone out there got pics of a boiler stove out on a hearth. I think I would take the fireplace out altogether as they dont look right poped out in front of a fireplace. Maybe just a hearth and a mantle? Help help help.
    KatieOS:eek:

    Hi, yes the 40,000btu boiler should just about run your rads and hot water. It may be advisable while the system is drained to install a few thermostatic rad valves on the radiators in the rooms that can be cooler.
    Yes you do need 1 inch pipes from stove to hotpress and a twin coil hot water cylinder. The stove can sit on the hearth infront providing the hearth it sits on projects 300mm infront and 6 inches either side.
    An insert may be easier and take up less room?
    Make sure the room heat of the oak doesnt produce more than 3-4kw to the room.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 280 ✭✭Ky Abu


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Based on your rad sizes and hot water requirements your looking for a stove/range with a boiler rated at least 17kw.
    The rayburn that I installed would do it, with the odd thermostatic rad valves on rooms that can be cooler. Or the larger Aarrow EB series. If you have rad(s) in the same room as the old range you can reduce the boiler size if wanted as the range/stove would heat this room.
    If going for a boiler stove you need to make sure the room heat from the stove isn't too high for the room size.

    Stove Fan:)


    Hi Stove Fan

    Im not doing too bad so. I had it worked out that if the whole house needed to be heated at once that I would need around the 17/18kw mark. I am planning on putting in a Stove and Range. Joule Evacuated Tubes are on site to be installed on the roof and a Firebird C26 Oil Boiler. There is a 300L Joule Thermal Store Tank going in

    I am fairly settled on the Stanley Donard Range as the two ovens are larger than the Rayburn equilivant and I think it looks a little better also.


    I have seen the Stanley Reginald Stove and the Stanley Erin stove today (about the 10th time of looking at stoves :) ). I like the fact the Reginald has a larger ash tray than most and a nice little cover that goes over it when removing the ashes the following morning. The Stove is going into a sitting room which has 2 Radiators and this needs about 4kw overall. All the radiators in the house will have Thermostatic Valves.

    I have narrowed the stoves down between the Reginald and the Blacksmith Forge. The Stanley is €1750 in M.D O'Shea's Killarney, the Blacksmith Forge can be got for about €1250 in the numerous places I have rang so far.

    The Reginald is much dearer, it puts 14kw to Water, 5.5kw to the Room. The Blacksmith Forge puts 15kw to Water and 6kw to the Room.

    Any thoughts on all of this? Decision time fast approaching! :) :pac: :pac: :P :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ky Abu wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan

    Im not doing too bad so. I had it worked out that if the whole house needed to be heated at once that I would need around the 17/18kw mark. I am planning on putting in a Stove and Range. Joule Evacuated Tubes are on site to be installed on the roof and a Firebird C26 Oil Boiler. There is a 300L Joule Thermal Store Tank going in

    I am fairly settled on the Stanley Donard Range as the two ovens are larger than the Rayburn equilivant and I think it looks a little better also.


    I have seen the Stanley Reginald Stove and the Stanley Erin stove today (about the 10th time of looking at stoves :) ). I like the fact the Reginald has a larger ash tray than most and a nice little cover that goes over it when removing the ashes the following morning. The Erin wouldnt be sufficient to suit the house on its own as far as I can see. The Stove is going into a sitting room which has 2 Radiators and this needs about 4kw overall. All the radiators in the house will have Thermostatic Valves.

    I have narrowed the stoves down between the Reginald and the Blacksmith Forge. The Stanley is €1750 in M.D O'Shea's Killarney, the Blacksmith Forge can be got for about €1250 in the numerous places I have rang so far.

    The Reginald is much dearer, it puts 14kw to Water, 5.5kw to the Room. The Blacksmith Forge puts 15kw to Water and 6kw to the Room.

    Any thoughts on all of this? Decision time fast approaching! :) :pac: :pac: :P :o

    To be honest they are all slightly undersized for the load but out of the two choices I would go for the Stanley reginald. I'd be more confident in stanley than Blacksmith. The stove should heat the house though as rads turn themselves down with the trv's.

    I would probably install the lower powered EB12 stove that produces 6kw to room and 12kw to water. I would then just use this to heat about 8 rads. This stove has a boiler passage baffle where the water inside travels through the longest path through the boiler for maximum heat transfer, so heats the rads quicker.

    The thermal store seems rather small, but I'm sure the plumber has sized it for the load.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 280 ✭✭Ky Abu


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    To be honest they are all slightly undersized for the load but out of the two choices I would go for the Stanley reginald. I'd be more confident in stanley than Blacksmith. The stove should heat the house though as rads turn themselves down with the trv's.
    Stove Fan:)

    Hi Stove Fan

    I think the Range will be the primary source to the Cylinder as the hot press is literally 3 feet away from it.

    I realise both sources would be basically on the limits for heating the whole house. However the house will be zoned and I would foresee that the Range would be lit probably in the morning and kept going over the course of the day for cooking etc and the Stove would kick in then in the evening to supplement the Range and heat the Rad's when they would be needed. Hopefully the Tubes will give some return also. :)


    If all fails we can pop on the Oil Boiler, oil is cheap :):D Ermmmm.... oh wait..... its not! :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ky Abu wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan

    I think the Range will be the primary source to the Cylinder as the hot press is literally 3 feet away from it.

    I realise both sources would be basically on the limits for heating the whole house. However the house will be zoned and I would foresee that the Range would be lit probably in the morning and kept going over the course of the day for cooking etc and the Stove would kick in then in the evening to supplement the Range and heat the Rad's when they would be needed. Hopefully the Tubes will give some return also. :)


    If all fails we can pop on the Oil Boiler, oil is cheap :):D Ermmmm.... oh wait..... its not! :mad:

    Sounds a good plan. My only concern is the size of the thermal store.
    If you can't store the hot water for later ie solid fuel range lit in morning to heat the thermal store and let the range go out the store may not have enough storage capacity to heat the rads later without lighting the range or stove again as the hot water in the store is rapidly depleted pumping round the radiators.
    It's quite normal to have a 1000 litre plus thermal store. I'm sure your plumber has sized this or has his reasons for going smaller.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 280 ✭✭Ky Abu


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Sounds a good plan. My only concern is the size of the thermal store.
    If you can't store the hot water for later ie solid fuel range lit in morning to heat the thermal store and let the range go out the store may not have enough storage capacity to heat the rads later without lighting the range or stove again as the hot water in the store is rapidly depleted pumping round the radiators.
    It's quite normal to have a 1000 litre plus thermal store. I'm sure your plumber has sized this or has his reasons for going smaller.

    Stove Fan:)


    Hi again


    The plumbers main point on the volume of the tank was when the radiators need to be heated that the Stove/Range or Oil Boiler would be able to heat up that volume of water quicker and realistically, id be predicting maybe 8 rads at most would be on at any given time, other parts of the house would be turned well down on the thermostatic valves..

    Would you be able to Explain the Thermal Store tank verses a conventional Coil Cylinder please?? Just to see if I have it understood right.


    Thanks for all the help Stove Fan, send on the invoice :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ky Abu wrote: »
    Hi again


    The plumbers main point on the volume of the tank was when the radiators need to be heated that the Stove/Range or Oil Boiler would be able to heat up that volume of water quicker and realistically, id be predicting maybe 8 rads at most would be on at any given time, other parts of the house would be turned well down on the thermostatic valves..

    Would you be able to Explain the Thermal Store tank verses a conventional Coil Cylinder please?? Just to see if I have it understood right.


    Thanks for all the help Stove Fan, send on the invoice :)

    A standard triple coil cylinder the water inside is the actual hot water to the taps and is heated by the 3 coils for the 3 heat souces. solar, oil and stove.
    The insulation on them isn't anywhere as good as a thermal store.

    The thermal store the water inside is actally part of the heating water and isn't the hot water supply to the hot taps. The hot water is heated by a coil inside the thermal store to give mains pressure hot water.
    The boilers are connected to this store either by indirect coils or with a solid fuel boiler directly. Ie the water in the stoves boiler is the same water as in the thermal store.
    The thermal store is more efficient as the thermal store once heated can keep a large volume of water hot once the fires have gone out and can pump it at a later date to heat the rads. The large water volume avoids having to keep the fire lit or using the oil.
    The thermal store looses very little heat as it is much more insulated than a standard hot water cylinder.


    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 philr87


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    The hot water cylinder will need to be raised part into the loft so that gravity circulation can take place. The flow pipe from stove needs to constantly rise from the stove to loft and then travel to the cylinder top coil connection always rising. Max ideally 4m. If you then went down to the cylinder it wouldnt work very well by gravity and I think the water would boil in the back boiler and pipework.
    As you have the return pipe routed under the floor from the hotpress the hot water cylinder would only need to go part into the loft, risen just enough to get gravity flow pipe to the top coil connection on the cylinder.

    The gravity flow should be in 1 inch copper piping due to the heat.

    You need to check if your boiler is open vented or pressurised. If pressurised a standard boiler stove can't be installed. You may be able to modify your pressurised boiler to open vented.
    There are stoves for pressurised systems but a lot more expensive and limited choice.

    Stove Fan:)
    Thanks for the advice Stove Fan:)
    The gravity flow will be copper as the qualpex couldn't take the direct heat direct heat from the boiler.We have the qualpex in floor as return will be cool enough for it.Would you recommend crossing the flow and return rather than having them on the same side of stove?I just looked at the oil boiler and it looks like it has a pressure vessel in it.If thats the case I assume I cant fit this stove to the system as it is.I was looking on system links website earlier and came across the "Heat Genie". I think this allows you to connect a stove to a pressurised system without modifying it...I'm going to ring them tomorrow about it.Have you ever heard about it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭raglan


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Sounds a very busy week:eek:
    Excellent news on the sale of your stove!
    Get your plumber to wire the pump to a pipe thermostat otherwise the pump is constantly circulating cool water and not switching on/off automatically. The pipe stat should be set around 45-55 degrees. More info in installers manual. I install mine on the flow pipe from stove.
    Without this pipe stat it will take longer to heat up and is a must to conform with the stoves warranty. Otherwise the boiler will suffer from condensation and shorten it's life. Looking forward to pics.

    Stove Fan:)

    Hi Stove Fan,
    Like EMG74, we have recently installed a Stratford stove but it's EB16. I have a question about the pipe stat linked to the pump. Our plumber had it set at 50 degrees, but stove seemd to take ages to heat water so we put it higher to 70. We are currently experimenting with the stove and thermostatic controls etc...to maximise use of it but is there any specific reason pipe stat should be set at 45-55, or are we doing harm with the higher setting??? Thanks for your help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    philr87 wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice Stove Fan:)
    The gravity flow will be copper as the qualpex couldn't take the direct heat direct heat from the boiler.We have the qualpex in floor as return will be cool enough for it.Would you recommend crossing the flow and return rather than having them on the same side of stove?I just looked at the oil boiler and it looks like it has a pressure vessel in it.If thats the case I assume I cant fit this stove to the system as it is.I was looking on system links website earlier and came across the "Heat Genie". I think this allows you to connect a stove to a pressurised system without modifying it...I'm going to ring them tomorrow about it.Have you ever heard about it?

    Yes crossflowed on the back of the boiler is the correct way to plumb the boiler pipe outlets. Best to check your existing boiler to see if it's pressurised or not. I have never heard of the heat genie so cant comment. Sounds a good plan to phone.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Daz1973


    Looks great cordni.I have the same fire place as you had.did fire place come out easy and did you retain your old hart and how much trouble was it to enlarge opening,once again looks great


  • Registered Users Posts: 394 ✭✭jeni


    Hiyas, anyone know what we should do?? We installed a stove a few weeks ago, as we had no fire place we built one ourselves using fire proof plaster board, anyway around the stove we tiled with fake sandstone but the heat from the stove is what looks like burning the tile behind it, well its changing the colour anyway, should we re-tile with real stone or should it be ok

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2 DON44


    FLEXIBLE STOVE PIPE?

    Hi Stove Fan,

    Is there such a thing as a flexible stove pipe (as opposed to the flue liner)?

    The reason I ask is that my chimney flue is not centrally located in my fireplace and as a result when I go to fit my new stove on the hearth, it is sitting off-centre. I don't really have enough room to put in enough bends to rectify this. There is only a very short distance (8" or so) to be bridged from the rear stove outlet to the clay pipe adaptor and it would make life very easy is I could bridge this gap with some kind of flexible piping.

    Many thanks

    DON


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