STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

cavan4sam wrote: »

have ordered the blacksmith forge so i'll update on its performance soon , now i'm looking for a 36x36 heart stone curved at the front , preferably in black slate

almost done , all the pipework done and hearth tiled on floor , stone being built 2moro so i should have some pics up next week all going well

Kaylee wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
I would appreciate your advice again... We have the exact same issue with our house - I got two different guys in to look at the fireplace (I want free standing stove recessed)

Man no. 1 said that it can be done with full day Kango hammer for €700.

Man no. 2 said that he wouldn't recommend doing it at all the gather is too low in our chimney - just put the stove on the hearth with flexi flue up chimney.

Just wondering if you think man no. 1 or man no. 2 is correct??

To be honest they are both correct, it really depends if you have the additional budget to alter the fireplace.
The main thing with enlarging the opening is supporting the chimney breast and clay liners properly. One way to support the clay liners is to drill a 1/2 inch drill bit straight through them and leave the bit in while the work continues. When drilling through the liners though use the non hammer position on the drill. Support the chimneybreast blockwork as well.

The other issue is to keep the cavity intact if the fireplace is on an external wall or the chimney is built externally on a gable wall. Ie leave 4 inches of the internal cavity blockwork for damp protection.

option 2 would be cheaper and less dusty as just the hearth would need extending.

Stove Fan:)

Moggaman wrote: »

Hi . I have an ongoing problem with my solid fuel stove. It is a large stove with a straight up flue into a normal chimney flue. There is a baffle plate horizontally about 2 inchs above the door. Since I have it I have experienced lots of smoke billowing out when I open the doors. There seems to be no problem with the draw cause it flames up massively when air gets to it.
The funny thing is if I ave the doors fully open it will probably smoke out into the room but if I close the double doors on it by three quaters it doesn't smoke...ie the smoke goes where it is meant to....I fitted a anti down draught cowl on top also...can anybody put sense on this..first I thought the baffle plate extended too far out towards the door and it might be deflecting the smoke out but again if I three quarters close the door the smoke goes where it's meant to....it's a pain...what's the story.....

Sweep the chimney first to rule this out if been using for a few months.
What stove is it? Is it top or rear flued?
There was a case with a stove here that had to have a part removed if using the rear flue outlet. This was causing smoke emmisions. Look in the stove manual to see if this is mentioned.
If you open a window or external door in the room with stove does the smoke go up the chimney? Is there a wall vent in the same room as the stove? Is your house quite new and quite airtight.

Stove Fan:)

Moggaman wrote: »

Thanks for reply.House is 5 years old. Insulated concrete formwork house..airtight....not really I think..can feel draughts from windows etc.had a vent in room but blocked It up cause of cold coming in....chimney swept 15 months ago. The flue is pretty clean I think..stove is not on all a every day....I think it doesnt improve when window is opened.....Stove is top flued

I would get the chimney swept and uncover the wall vent and see if it cures the problem. The vent should not be covered, it's there to let air in for the fire for combustion air. If not get it investigated as fumes into the room are a no-no. If the vent is in a bad position have it moved/ installed to a less windy/exposed external wall.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan wrote: »

To be honest they are both correct, it really depends if you have the additional budget to alter the fireplace.
The main thing with enlarging the opening is supporting the chimney breast and clay liners properly. One way to support the clay liners is to drill a 1/2 inch drill bit straight through them and leave the bit in while the work continues. When drilling through the liners though use the non hammer position on the drill. Support the chimneybreast blockwork as well.

The other issue is to keep the cavity intact if the fireplace is on an external wall or the chimney is built externally on a gable wall. Ie leave 4 inches of the internal cavity blockwork for damp protection.

option 2 would be cheaper and less dusty as just the hearth would need extending.

Stove Fan:)

Thank you very much Stove Fan - really appreciate you taking the time to answer queries like this, you are very giving of your time and expertise

Don't know what to do now... we like the option 2 stoves (Clearview) but we really want the stove recessed and they aren't willing to do it. Just complicates things again...typical!

Surfn wrote: »

we put in a clearview 750 boiler stove last december, it replaced a converted solid fuel to oil cooker. i can tell you its the best thing we ever done. clearview 750 sure can produce heat. its heating keeping our bungalow nice and toasty. 8 rads and hot water, a few of the rads are doubles. from what ive seen with it so far, dry seasoned sticks is definately the key. but anybody putting in a big boiler stove, these things eat sticks. we have alot of sticks of our own so we are not to bad. overall couldnt be happier, the house nearly gets too hot at times, but hey not a bad complaint

Yea, I believe they're really good stoves. Heard it from a few people who installed...

Stove Fan wrote: »

I don't know anything about them but the person we bought our house from has the blacksmith forge boiler stove in their home. I should be seeing them in a week or two. I will ask them what they think of it:)


Stove Fan:)

Hi

Am looking at the Blacksmith Forge as a possible option also, any update on this installation??

Great thread - a wealth of information in it.

Can anybody here in Galway City(County) recommend a Solid Fuel Stove Installer whom they have employed in the last year or two. Can you please PM me. Have an Oisin Stanley Stove to install into an Open Fireplace which originally had an open fireplace with a back boiler.


Thanks

what_traffic

Surfn wrote: »

we put in a clearview 750 boiler stove last december, it replaced a converted solid fuel to oil cooker. i can tell you its the best thing we ever done. clearview 750 sure can produce heat. its heating keeping our bungalow nice and toasty. 8 rads and hot water, a few of the rads are doubles. from what ive seen with it so far, dry seasoned sticks is definately the key. but anybody putting in a big boiler stove, these things eat sticks. we have alot of sticks of our own so we are not to bad. overall couldnt be happier, the house nearly gets too hot at times, but hey not a bad complaint

Clearview have a great reputation and certainly a well regarded make. In the UK a secondhand one on ebay can get serious money!!

We heat our 2 bed bungalow with a villager berkley boiler stove and find coal the cheapest for running costs. Around 600euro over 7 months.

Stove Fan:)

Ky Abu wrote: »

Anyone able to help me a bit on this??

I have looked at the following in Stoves with a back boiler

Stanley Ashling, This can be got with a Hotplate or without. It could possibly replace the Range, but the access into the ash tray is very poor I think.

Blacksmith Forge Looked at this a few times in different places and the stores seem to suggest it is a cheaper but more efficient version of the Stanley Ashling

Stratford Eco Boiler Looks more modern but no reviews only the recommendation from the store.


Solid Fuel Ranges
Stanley Donard Solid Fuel Range

Rayburn Solid Fuel Range


So really, just looking for anyone who has experience of any of these, where they purchased, best price etc? Or any close comparisons to these.

Hi, do you know the boiler output of your existing range? This needs to be established as all the above have different boiler outputs from 10kw to 17kw.

I have never seen a stanley ashling but see my comments above regarding the blacksmith forge.
The stratford ecoboiler SEB20 is an old discontinued model over a year ago. They do an updated version the Aarrow EB boilers series which are a lot better and available in different heat outputs.
If I was going for a reasonable brand stove for a reasonable price I would go for one of these.

Out of the 2 ranges I would buy rayburn. I actually plumbed in a reconditioned rayburn Nouvelle solid fuel cooker and the boiler performance was fab. The 8 rads (5 doubles) and hot water were rated at 14kw and it heated the rads very hot. Thermostatic control on the boiler to maintain the rad temp which it seemed to do.
It did cost 3,400 euros just for the refurbished range from H&F
http://www.handfenterprises.ie/
No idea on the cooking function but the client did use the top for a fry up. The firebox was large so ideal if you were burning logs.

Another option is warmsler. Better than a rayburn and I love the adjustable grate height for summer use. Ie when you want less boiler output you move the grate position higher so as to heat just hotwater.
http://www.wamslercookers.co.uk/html/ch_1100.html

Another option which is very well made is Brosely. These though can only burn wood by the looks of it. May be advisable to see if they can burn coal. The nice thing is though you can view see the fire.
http://www.broseleyfires.com/Range-Cookers/

Stove Fan:)

apologys i previously posted this in main forum before I saw the sticky, posting here as i might get more informatin

I got a insert stove fitted about 3 months ago, It has had very little use. Last week I noticed the wall upstairs was very warm so I checked the chimney breast down stairs and it was extremely hot, So hot that 2 small cracks have appeared on the chimney breast.
The fire had been out for about an hour and a half and the stove was cold yet the chimney breast was untouchable.

I Called the fire brigade as I was scared that there may have been a fire in the chimney breast (thankfully there wasn't)
Even the fire men seemed puzzled on how it was so hot and no fire.

The plumber who fitted it has never seen this happen before. He has moved back the flu and insulated it even more but unfortunately it is still happening.
He specialises in fitting stoves and is fully qualified.

The stove is an Antrim 5kw
An hour after a fire has gone out the stove will be cold I thought stoves were meant to retain the heat.

Any advice is much appreciated

hi stove man..ive a quick question that i think i know the answer to!!..looking to get an inset stove around the 4/5kw..like most these days money is fairly tight and im trawling the internet trying to come across the best deal..the stoves on the like of done deal that some are selling are alot cheaper then most other sites ive looked on..are they a cheaper stove for a reason..would i be better to swerve and pay the extra?

Ky Abu wrote: »

Anyone able to help me a bit on this??

I have looked at the following in Stoves with a back boiler

Stanley Ashling, This can be got with a Hotplate or without. It could possibly replace the Range, but the access into the ash tray is very poor I think.

Blacksmith Forge Looked at this a few times in different places and the stores seem to suggest it is a cheaper but more efficient version of the Stanley Ashling

Stratford Eco Boiler Looks more modern but no reviews only the recommendation from the store.


Solid Fuel Ranges
Stanley Donard Solid Fuel Range

Rayburn Solid Fuel Range


So really, just looking for anyone who has experience of any of these, where they purchased, best price etc? Or any close comparisons to these.

Hi Ky Abu,

The Stanley Donard and Rayburn solid fuel ranges are effectively the same range as they are made by the same manufacturers and retail for exactly the same price.

I have the Stanley donard in my own house and would recommend it although I am considering changing it for the Stanley Reginald stove. The donard comes with a summer time grate as stovefan mentioned and I would be almost certain that the Rayburn does as well. The only real difference between the 2 is the Rayburn appears to be a little more traditional looking.

A member of my family has an Ashling with boiler and hot plate and they would recommend it, however this would not have the same output as the ranges or the EB (I don't know anything about the blacksmith).

RoscommonLad.

Robbie.G wrote: »

Generally speaking the temp of the chimney should be lower with a stove than an open fire due to the efficientcy of a stove
The only time I seen the flue temp very high was due to the incorrect coal been use so just double check the coal is suitable for a closed appliance

Thanks a mill for reply.

The stove itself goes cold about an hour after the fire has gone out, whereas the wall holds the heat and is still hot several hours later. Is it possible that the stove is not retaining the heat properly??

albert kidd wrote: »

hi stove man..ive a quick question that i think i know the answer to!!..looking to get an inset stove around the 4/5kw..like most these days money is fairly tight and im trawling the internet trying to come across the best deal..the stoves on the like of done deal that some are selling are alot cheaper then most other sites ive looked on..are they a cheaper stove for a reason..would i be better to swerve and pay the extra?

Unfortunately you generally get what you pay for. If you can afford the extra look at the Aarrow ecoburn Inset. reasonable quality or the esse 300 series, stovax stockton inset, stovax riva.
A lot of the stoves on donedeal are made in China.

Have a look at various manufacturers reviews here by owners. www.whatstove.co.uk

Stove Fan:)