I have an oil boiler and am older clock-style heating timer in my house. This one:

I'm looking to swap it out as the timer on it no longer rotates and ideally I'd like something I can programme to go on and off a couple of times a day and then have the option to also boost an extra hour.

I was wondering if someone could tell me if this would be a suitable replacement? I don't need it to control my hot water separately, or connect to wifi etc. I'm on DA so just need a cheap and simple replacement.

Thanks so much.

I think (from how I see it anyway) is this rough sketch:

any idea why then the water is not getting to the return pump on the boiler? - I am thinking blockage in the pipe from the header tank to to boiler? - or air lock? - what do you reckon?

Thanks.

Andy.

Does anyone have one up and running if yes what type

Maybe someone know where I could source one

so set to 1kw you could in theory have 26 rooms heated up by these fan heaters to equal the energy what a kerosene boiler uses ? - am I missing anything here?

A normal house would not have 26 rooms. - so even if you had a 6 room house you are then using 6kw if they are set to 1kw each , then and that is only if they are all on at the same time , obviously with bult in thermostats when the room gets warm enough (20'c) then the fan heater will turn off .

and seeing as up to a consumer board you can have a 9kw instant shower then putting a 6kw load from the fan heaters through the consumer board should not be a problem of overloading .

so apart from the obvious that they can be noisy with the fan motors going what else am I missing if you wanted to get rid of kerosene oil heating and did not want / afford heat pump for the house why would not 1kw fan heaters in each room heat up the house ok and keep it dry with the dry heat and direct the heat down into the room rather than rise the heat to the ceiling area as what central heating steel radiators do?

then you have to buy the 2kw bathroom wall fan heaters - what we talking 30euro a piece? - but then again how much would 6 steel radiators cost for the house and all the pipework and then the kerosene boiler if we are talking 800euro for a kerosene boiler and oil storage tank - then wait for kerosene to be delivered.

I have not yet worked out economics of whether 26kw of oil is verses 26x 1kw fan heaters on the electricity bill (or 6kw if you are only putting fan heaters in 6 rooms of the house)

I am just fascinated about it and want to see what things I have missed and see why it would not work , and work out cheaper and heat the rooms quicker than steel radiators. Purely hypothetical . I know it sounds crazy as I read it back , but some of the best discoveries have come from crazy ideas.

As I understand it, I need line voltage thermostats, although it would be helpful if someone could confirm from the attached photos? Looks to be high voltage with no C wire.

Any recommendations for replacements that would be a straight swap?

Monthly subscription fees are a definitive no. Wifi connectivity is not something I need, but no problem if the units themselves require it to function. Likewise I see no benefit to a control app. It just needs to accurately display the temp and have a +/- to adjust.

The heating system is a new oil boiler, zoned for upstairs/downstairs/HW with an EPH programmable control unit.

Current boiler SIME Format is gone I think, serial said it was manufactured 2003 and guess its been in the house since built 2005 era. Makes loud banging noises so it might be a CH sensor but thinking I'd be throwing good money after bad with it considering age.

Any recommendations for something similar? Has Google nest running it.

Not interested in heat pump as house is not suitable and can't afford one anyway.

So if anyone has any good reports for boilers then would love to hear from you.

Thanks.

Is there any down side to using these cleaning fluids.

Mine was 4m3 per day. it would cost me e170 in 60 days.

House details:

- 3 zone system (hot water, upstairs and downstairs)

- Heating upstairs in the morning (working from home) and downstairs in the evening

- heating the hot tank water twice a day

- end of terrace house in a windy corner and BER B3

- avg temp in the house when the heating is on: 18c (Nest)

Our boiler (potterton 4 yrs old) had its pressure vessel replaced yesterday.

Since then my downstairs zone will not come on. The boiler is reacting and the motorised valve seems to be turning but still no heat. I swapped the 2 motorised valves around but still the same with upstairs working with both valves and downstairs not on both.

Any advice would be great.

looking at pumps they seemed a fair old price for a new one but found a fantastic price of one on Amazon at around 30 quid with not bad reviews. 

fitted it and it works fine .... in a way . 

Trying it at all 3 speeds - 

1 speed is lovely, its quiet in operation and no air rushing around in radiators and no fraction of a sound of boiling kettle in the hot press . - but upstairs radiators are not getting hot enough!

2nd speed - its noisy and trapped air is rushing around the radiators (I have tried bleeding as much as I can through each radiator , and pressure relief valve, and the pipe in the hotpress has a radiator type bleeding valve on the pipe) but still there is air bubbling / gushing in the radiators , not constantly but when I listen every now and again and not just in 1 radiator but moving around the radiators , mainly in the downstairs radiators. - also there is a much louder noise of a boiling kettle in the hotpress area. 

So, Ideally I would like the number 1 speed of no air in the rads, but with the power of speed 2 where the upstairs radiators get lovely and hot (as hot as the downstairs) .

Just a couple of things to note just in case it has any bearing on the matter:

1.) The pump is on the return pipe inside the outdoor oil boiler unit.

2.) I have unscrewed the pump middle screw after fitting to let the air out.

3.) I have been up in the loft and the CH header tank is full of water and the vent pipe is bent over as it should be at the top of the header tank.

4.) The vent pipe is that of a F&E system

5.) When I changed pump I did not drain down the whole system , I just shut off the 2 shut off valves above and below the pump (these valves do not have the red gate valves , they just have a simple ball valve where you single turn with a pair of molegrips)

I think thats about it - any ideas?

sorry for long post.

Thanks

The boiler is in a boiler shed attached to a side of the house and the cylinder is in the hot press on the opposite side. We have no immersion heater on our cylinder. I was thinking it would be possible to run pipes in the attic between the boiler and cylinder, but one plumber advised against it. He said it wouldn't be efficient and it would airlock - though surely that's what pipe insulation and auto air vents are for, maybe he just didn't want to bother.

Is this a viable solution for zoning our heating and hot water, or is there a better alternative? We have concrete floors, so putting pipes under the floor is out of the question

There are a couple of radiators in the house that are like that but on nearly all of them the bleed valve is on the same side as the TRV side.

Would this trip the RCD switch or should it be tripping the MCB switch? The MCB one never trips, but when I flip it the fusebox starts humming, which none of the other switches do.

Note I don'tknow a whole lot about this, terms could be wrong, I'm just referring to what is written on the switches themselves.

Current set up:

• Vented system, header tank in loft and hot cylinder in the upstairs press.
• Shower is electric and gravity fed from header tank, hence awful.
• Central heating is odd. It is pumped, there is no F&E tank, looks like someone retrofitted an expansion tank at one point instead. But the system is still 'fed' by the header tank in the loft and permanently open. The pressure gauge is 0.25bar or something, which I suppose is just the pressure of the head above it. I've seen this referred to as "semi-sealed" but doesn't seem very common...
• No heating zones or thermostats, just on/off and the hot water tank is on the same circuit as the rads which is not ideal.

Proposals:

• Pipework, tanks and rads are ancient and need replacing. Easiest option seems to me to be to keep the vented hot water system.
• Seal the central heating system properly, remove connection to header tank, install a filling loop off the mains and get a proper 1 bar system going. New pipes and rads as I do this.
• Zone it correctly, S plan with hot water and heating zones. New hot water tank etc.
• New shower with a pump, fed from hot cylinder and header tank. Do away with electric shower which is hopeless.
• Boiler is a few years old so will need replacing eventually but not urgent now, it works fine. With this method I can upgrade the system and do the boiler when needed.
• Problem is we could do with removing the upstairs press to give more space in the bathroom. We are thinking of a utility room somewhere downstairs but then I see issues with pumping the water up for the shower? Anyone have an ideas or done something clever themselves in this regard?

Other options are either a new combi or an unvented tank in the garage. Problem I foresee is that these are mains pressure and the pressure around here seems hopeless? Does anyone fit combis or unvented tanks in Dublin? I've read that some do it with those mains pumps that are 12l/minute and noisy.

Thanks

The issue is the heat control says ON but the red light isn’t coming on. This leads me to believe the power into the control is good but there could be some signal issue with the boiler which is why it’s not powering up? I’ve circled the buttons that turn red when it’s heating but as you can see, it says ON but not turning red and the boiler is not firing up.

I've restarted the boiler, reset the EPK heat control, and turned the main fuse off and back on again, and still nothing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

The central heating needs to be upgraded. I can't go underfloor heating because it's a slab foundation.

I want to move away from kerosene to electricity heating.

Is this a good idea?

Amy recommendations on a system

Is HVO a good option or oil fired kerosene which can be converted to HVO if it ends up cheaper some day? Is there any grants or tax relief on this if I am getting HVO boiler and radiators plumbed and installed? Or is there a better option that I'm not thinking of?

just wondering if something like this would physically work in a central heating setup and actually heat up the central heating radiators on the system , or would it just not be gutsy enough? - or not work because of some other reason?

So, my idea then, Using a Dishwasher electrical Heating element instead of a conventional oil or gas boiler in the system

The Element is rated at 230v AC and has 1800w of power - I understand the normal central heating boiler has what is it something like 90 BTU of power which I think is about 24kw (24,000w) of power, but the dishwasher heater heats up at 1800w in such a small space inside the element housing what about if one was not powerful enough then using 2 heater in series (3,600w on a 20amp switch)? I know its still a fraction of what a conventional boiler would put out- a dishwasher when in operation the water inside seems to get scalding / boiling after just a short amount of time because the water is circulating through a pump and being re-heated again and again.

What do you reckon (especially seasoned heating engineers) would it work ... even if it was partially?

from what i can see the volume of water is not that big in a central heating radiator system, the pipes in the system are only 22mm and the pipes going to the rads are about 15mm and I couldnt see the modern radiator themselves holding much water?

Ive wired it up in what I thought was the correct way, but heating isn't turning on.

I've connected the 2 brown cables that where in 3 & 4 into 4 & 5 in the new controls but heating isn't turning on.

Any ideas? (Or do I have the wrong model)

First of all apologies for the general topic.

Our 30 year old boiler is on the way out and with energy prices going the way they are, we feel now would be a good time to upgrade.

Ideally, a whole new heating system is needed but we probably don't have a huge budget - around 4k.

I'd love solar panels but feel they are outside our budget.

After researching grants, I think there may be a couple available to us, around €700 but nothing that will do us any real good.

Our house is around a D BER rating (was D2 then added new windows).

Where do I start?

I've been recommended an oil boiler and just have no real clue what to do or where to start.

Thanks

Just reaching out here to see what other people think.

We have built an A rated new build property (2400 sq ft)

It has air to water underfloor heating, heat pump, and a heat recovery system in place.

Smart meter installed and i noticed our last bill has increased to 260 for a month, our previous was 200.

Anyone else think that seems very strong, we have free power on a sat and the house only needs the heat on that day for the rest of the week and any washing or drying is mostly done that day.

We're out of the house with work so its not like we are home all day.

I could be wrong though and maybe that's the cost these days, our last usage was 700 kwh which seems huge.

Thanks for any help here.

Am sure i saw a youtube video of a boiler engineer in the UK filling up a sealed system and was sure he said "the pipe must be disconnected by law after filling" - but over here in Ireland I have seen the loop pipe connected all the time on the systems I have seen.

What would be the reasoning anyway for it to be disconnected by law would it be so that the water from the CH system does not syphon back into the mains water system and pollute that and everyone's mains water down the street and give them legionnaires disease or whatever it is ?

Does anyone here know if there are any plans to introduce grants for individuals who want to install environmentally friendly pellet boilers in their home? With this fuel crisis only beginning, it would be in the government's interest to try promote and assist people who wish to have environmentally friendly alternatives to heat their home.