Aidan's tip of the week

davfox · 23-09-2013 5:55pm

Hi Aiden, silly question, when I fill my water tank how do I know if there is water in my c6000 boiler. The blower works and I do get hot water, but does the boiler fill up with water. I can't hear it going into it.

Malta1 · 24-09-2013 9:42am

Would imagine that when you open the hot tap, the pump in the water tank kicks in and ultimately pushes water to the tap via the boiler. When the boiler and water tank has been drained and refilled, you probably will notice that the pump seems to run for a while before you get water out of the cold taps.....takes longer to get it from hot taps as boiler has to fill first

Well thats the way it works on my van

Aidan_M_M · 25-09-2013 12:25am

Spot on!

davfox · 25-09-2013 10:57pm

cheers lads, must drain and refill my tank.
regards
Dave

Malta1 · 26-09-2013 10:23am

Yup

Dont leave water in tanks for too long - the little nasty bugs love it

Aidan_M_M · 06-10-2013 11:34pm

A-class owners, check the fine print on your insurance re replacing broken windscreens! We had to do 2 this year, they had to come from the camper manufacturers ... At outlandish prices , and apparently some insurance companies will only pay out a maximum value which may be less than the cost of the new 'screen..

neiphin · 16-10-2013 6:45pm

thanks aidan

Aidan_M_M · 23-11-2013 12:20pm

Folks, don't forget to drain the water out if your campers!!!!

spaceHopper · 26-11-2013 12:46pm

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

A-class owners, check the fine print on your insurance re replacing broken windscreens! We had to do 2 this year, they had to come from the camper manufacturers ... At outlandish prices , and apparently some insurance companies will only pay out a maximum value which may be less than the cost of the new 'screen..

Had my car windscreen changed this year, if you use the insure's agent then FBD will pay for it, think they have a fixed price with the supplier, if you used your own gurage then they pay 223 max. Maybe it's the same with camper insurance, mine is with AXA.

[Deleted User] · 28-11-2013 12:07am

Here's a good one. I had to replace a rear window last year after some wastrels smashed it.
I rang Mercedes for OEM glass and was quoted €80 ex VAT but it was going to take a week to ship. So rang insurance to see if windscreen cover included rear windows...it did, so I called Autoglass and they quoted me €400 fitted. I asked why it was so expensive and they told me it was because it had to come from Germany etc.
Given that it was my insurance's dosh I went with the expedient expensive solution. So when they went to replace it, they removed the good window to use as a template. Cut it from a sheet of in-store pane, fitted it and after some coercion engraved a watermark.
The real reason it was so expensive I expect was because I wasn't paying for it.

reflexsean · 07-12-2013 2:23am

stapeler wrote: »

On the parking for the winter subject, I leave the MH in gear with the handbreak off. Found that keeping the handbreak pulled causes it to stick a bit. Any thoughts?

Right on always leave the handbrake off when parking up for long periods or the shoes stick to the drums but make sure to chock the wheels

Aidan_M_M · 09-01-2014 10:52am

Check your mirrors folks, more and more I'm seeing the hinge seized on them, I manipulate them in and out at the arm once a year now and douse the joint with WD40 or similar.

RiderOnTheStorm · 02-02-2014 11:48pm

Aidan, whats your advice on unloading the CV during idle months? I am thinking about the strain on suspension / tyres in the winter months, holding up 3-something tons. Is there any advantage in taking out the gas cyl, spare table, jack, wood-chocks, etc. Maybe all those are only the tip of the iceberg and wont make a difference.

Aidan_M_M · 03-02-2014 10:17am

RiderOnTheStorm wrote: »

Aidan, whats your advice on unloading the CV during idle months? I am thinking about the strain on suspension / tyres in the winter months, holding up 3-something tons. Is there any advantage in taking out the gas cyl, spare table, jack, wood-chocks, etc. Maybe all those are only the tip of the iceberg and wont make a difference.

I'd be more concerned with draining down the water and having the bedding out! And taking it for a spin every now and then.

Aidan_M_M · 03-02-2014 10:22am

Something that came up on another thread , thought it'd be no harm to have here!

Re A class front (glass) windows fogging up while driving;
"They're poor on all a classes to be honest. You've obviously never rallied an old Escort or motorbiked on bad days? Lol! Simple solution. Get a slightly damp cloth, with a squirt of shampoo on it, wipe off all the window, and as it's starting to dry a little , buff it off with a towel. It'll stop it fogging up for a few days."

Aidan_M_M · 12-02-2014 10:27am

Bit breezy and damp out....

Next time you can stick your head out, might be no harm to make sure all your roof cowls and vents are still attached!

Aidan_M_M · 22-05-2014 12:43pm

Damp. The demon. The end of most MHs that get retired . Guys and dolls , we are probably turning away half what's offered to us as trade-ins , ( and we are very low on secondhands , so really are keen to trade ) , purely because of really bad damp/rot . These last few years haven't been kind to MHs , there's stuff leaking that in "normal" times , should never leak. I know I've said this already , but top to bottom , front to back , You REALLY need to get a proper damp check done yearly.

Aidan_M_M · 29-06-2014 12:25pm

I'd advise any MH owner to weigh their camper, and get a weight docket to prove it, a few of our customers had issues abroad with police claiming they were over their weight limit, and speed ing, as a result.

niloc1951 · 30-06-2014 11:08am

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

I'd advise any MH owner to weigh their camper, and get a weight docket to prove it, a few of our customers had issues abroad with police claiming they were over their weight limit, and speed ing, as a result.

I'm afraid a weight docket will be of no interest to foreign plod, the only documents they are interested in are the vehicles registration certificate which should contain all the necessary information and the VIN plate.
The fact that most motorhome registration certificated have errors and omissions which include incorrect GVW may only serve to add to the difficulties when dealing with foreign plod.

A related issue is how many motorhomes with a GVW over 3,500kg are being driven by people who only hold a B (car) licence :eek:
That will get you into real trouble as a driver with no licence to drive the vehicle. Emptying the water tank and leaving some of your kit by the roadside won't sort that out.

Benbecul97 · 02-07-2014 8:52am

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

I'd advise any MH owner to weigh their camper, and get a weight docket to prove it, a few of our customers had issues abroad with police claiming they were over their weight limit, and speed ing, as a result.

What countries had they issues in?
Do foreign police have the facilities to weigh your camper or is it based on their observation?
Are checks more likely to occur on motorways or at ferrports?

niloc1951 · 02-07-2014 9:09am

Benbecul97 wrote: »

What countries had they issues in?
Do foreign police have the facilities to weigh your camper or is it based on their observation?
Are checks more likely to occur on motorways or at ferrports?

UK and Continental police forces have mobile vehicle weighing equipment like THIS KIND OF KIT. They can set up a checkpoint anywhere and don't need fixed weigh bridges.

Experienced police can spot an overweight vehicle by the shape of its tyres where they contact the road and more obviously by the load on its suspension but this can be camouflaged if the vehicle has self levelling air suspension.

One of the benefits of having CP tyres fitted to a motorhome is the higher pressure they are designed to be inflated to (5.5 bar / 80 psi) means they will support more weight without the vehicle looking like overloaded.

Benbecul97 · 09-07-2014 10:45am

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

I'd advise any MH owner to weigh their camper, and get a weight docket to prove it, a few of our customers had issues abroad with police claiming they were over their weight limit, and speed ing, as a result.

If they camper is a bit over - say 2850kg instead of 2800kg - do police allow some leeway or can it depend on who you get?

[Deleted User] · 09-07-2014 11:39am

Drive it to the weighbridge in 2nd gear and hope you burn off all the fuel payload :pac:

Aidan_M_M · 09-07-2014 1:11pm

And it'll clean out your EGR valve while you're at it! lol

niloc1951 · 09-07-2014 10:42pm

Benbecul97 wrote: »

If they camper is a bit over - say 2850kg instead of 2800kg - do police allow some leeway or can it depend on who you get?

I found THIS for the UK.
Can't find anything similar for Ireland.

Reading other forums it looks like it's the axle weight which gets more attention than the vehicle weight. It stands to reason as an overloaded axle can present a serious danger of poor handling or even tyre blow-out which is why VOSA seem to concentrate on axle weight rather than vehicle weight.

To answer your question there does seem to be some tolerance of a vehicle being over its plated GVW but little tolerance if an axle is overloaded.

nailer8 · 10-07-2014 12:58pm

niloc1951 wrote: »

One of the benefits of having CP tyres fitted to a motorhome is the higher pressure they are designed to be inflated to (5.5 bar / 80 psi) means they will support more weight without the vehicle looking like overloaded.

Wow never heard of CP tyres before.
Page 4&5 of this document from Michelin makes interesting reading regarding CP tyres and campers.

I wonder would the help my fuel efficiency. My tyres always look like they are about to burst, they are the factory fitted continental tyres, now 8 years old so might be time for a change.

Also does anyone actually use axle stands for the winter?

niloc1951 · 10-07-2014 4:41pm

nailer8 wrote: »

Wow never heard of CP tyres before.
Page 4&5 of this document from Michelin makes interesting reading regarding CP tyres and campers.

I wonder would the help my fuel efficiency. My tyres always look like they are about to burst, they are the factory fitted continental tyres, now 8 years old so might be time for a change.

Also does anyone actually use axle stands for the winter?

Tyres eight years old should be rigorously inspected to make sure there is no age related damage. The side walls and particularly between the threads should be checked for any signs of cracking.
It's not uncommon to see motorhomes with tyres showing very good thread depth but so weak as a result of ageing that they are just waiting to blow out at the worst possible moment :eek:

I've seen motorhomes on axle stands under the chassis to relieve the suspension and tyres to a degree, but never under the axles to take the full weight off the tyres. Given the weight of most motorhomes getting axle stands safely under the axles would require commercial trolley jacks, equipment beyond the reach of ordinary motorhome owners.

[Deleted User] · 11-07-2014 3:19pm

Rigorous inspection I would take to mean remove them and eyeball them in the daylight, not with a head in the wheel-arch, a torch and a mirror.

Increasing the tyre pressure will save you fuel and put higher stress on your suspension. If I'm doing the autobahn I inflate them to the max and get about a 4mpg increase. On Irish roads I drop them about 15psi...if you saw the state of my front leaves you'd understand. :pac:

Axle stands are for axles, I know you can use them elsewhere but the axle is designed to take the vehicle weight. 5 ton stands aren't that expensive and it's good to have 4 for brake work and things anyways.
Concrete blocks, wooden members and wheel rims are a lot cheaper all the same.

I can get a lift on a corner of mine with a 2.5 ton trolley jack, does the job but it's a pain because the handle's short and the clearance is poor (not that having too much road clearance is a known issue of Fiats

). I just went for a 5 ton jack in the end and it's well worth it. Saves loadsa grief, I can lift cars by the centre of the axle and get two wheels up at a time too.

I don't think it's a very good idea to take the weight off the suspension unless you are a long way over the kerb-weight. If you lift it all the way and not by the axle you are creating tensile stresses particularly with coil springs.

niloc1951 · 11-07-2014 4:51pm

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Rigorous inspection I would take to mean remove them and eyeball them in the daylight, not with a head in the wheel-arch, a torch and a mirror.

Increasing the tyre pressure will save you fuel and put higher stress on your suspension. If I'm doing the autobahn I inflate them to the max and get about a 4mpg increase. On Irish roads I drop them about 15psi...if you saw the state of my front leaves you'd understand. :pac:

Axle stands are for axles, I know you can use them elsewhere but the axle is designed to take the vehicle weight. 5 ton stands aren't that expensive and it's good to have 4 for brake work and things anyways.
Concrete blocks, wooden members and wheel rims are a lot cheaper all the same.

I can get a lift on a corner of mine with a 2.5 ton trolley jack, does the job but it's a pain because the handle's short and the clearance is poor (not that having too much road clearance is a known issue of Fiats ). I just went for a 5 ton jack in the end and it's well worth it. Saves loadsa grief, I can lift cars by the centre of the axle and get two wheels up at a time too.

I don't think it's a very good idea to take the weight off the suspension unless you are a long way over the kerb-weight. If you lift it all the way and not by the axle you are creating tensile stresses particularly with coil springs.

I do have a real heavyweight commercial jack, but I prefer to leave it with my roadside rescue provider

They're way better at that kind of physical stuff than I am

As regards taking some of the weight off the suspension/tyres if static for a long period, most motorhomes are a long way over the kerb weight of the base vehicle.

[Deleted User] · 11-07-2014 7:18pm

If that's the case by all means give it a little lift off the rails not the sills.
I wonder how much of that is removable liquid weight.

I've replaced the shocks and springs on the rear of mine with box body versions.

I just got tired of finishing jobs mechanics start (no offence to the residents), started spending on tools instead, slowly getting a decent home shop together.

Aidan's tip of the week

Comments