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A restoration tale (with pics)
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Join Date:Posts: 6045
If you don't get a saw you could build the keel up with laminations of marine ply clamping them together with epoxy, it would be a lot stronger and more water resistance than the softwood and easy to cut with a jigsaw.
If you need to conform to the shape of the boat just mark it out from the other keel on a board and then place some fixing blocks along the line.
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I gotta be honest, if it's gonna rain, then I prefer days like this where it pisses down. I get to sit in with my feet up by my big f'off tele and chill totally, and the heavy rain has the effect of removing all guilt.
I've had multiple Judge Judy's
Soprano fest
Count Down (Rachel Riley ooohhhh gooddddd)
Deal or no Deal
Glastonbury
My Beloved F1 Friday practice
More Glastonbury tonight
Also The Big C (RTE 2 @10:30, awesome)
And then of course there's this beauty, piping hot rhubarb tart and way too much ice cream, gotta love a rainy day.
1. Photographed at 21:40pm on Friday 24th June, 2011. Sadly no longer with us:cool:
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Also there is a boat jumble sale on in Dún Laoghaire on the 12th http://www.boatjumble.ie/ it should have more than one stall
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Oh - that jumble sucked also
- about 6 boats for sale - and no jumble at all. Unless I missed something.
ps. great thread - hope you get a decent break in the weather soon....“Roll it back”
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Day 22
It's been 2 months since we had a sunny day here, and if I recall correctly, it's been 2 months since we had a totally dry day. On a side note, the weather is a point or particular concern to scientists right now because the sun is going through a period of unusual inactivity and as we know the jet stream continues to run off it's normal track. The past 2 months have been not only wet, but very cold. Infact twice during June, I removed frost from my car. If we transpose this pattern 6 months into the future, you are looking at the mother of all big freezes next winter. Scientifically, it's a good bet right now.
I was up ant at 'em this morning in anticipation of a fine day. I wanted to get started on that big bastard hole in the hull. In order to lay glass down over that hole, I need to remove some of the cabin bulkhead which is right in the way. Also, the floor of the Norman, uses wrap over laminations of grp to hold in things like seats etc. Over the years these laminations have become packed with crap which is rotten etc. So I needed to remove some of these joints.
In doing that, I removed some of the under door stringer which was so rotten it resembled wet turf. From this exploratory cut, I am now resigned to the fact that several of the stringers may be rotten. When I cut a hole in the bulk head to allow a through passage for ther hole repair, I needed to remove another stringer inside the cabin and it too was rotten. The good news is that some exploratory cuts into stringers on the deck reveals that they are reasonably sound.
I have found it difficult to source hardwood for my side keels which I removed recently. In the meantime I have the two old keel timbers in the house drying out. It turns out that I think they may be salvageable. One of them has some rot which I can cut out and refill with filler or epoxy. The other one seems sound. I'm just wondering should I treat these timbers with anything before refitting them? I fear that the likes of a preservative oil or creosote will prevent new glass / resin sticking to them, any advice on this anyone? Will I just fit them dry?
I spent the day cutting, grinding and sanding old grp. The dust was horrid, It was like spending the day in a vat of itching powder. I removed some crap from the floor of that boat I tell you. I got down to a nice clean grp floor grinded and sanded all around the hole. I then applied I'd say 15-20 cuts of woven coving to the hole. I started off with small pieces and worked my way outwards with bigger pieces. I mixed it up between 280gsm and 600gsm. I also mixed up the cuts between 90 and 45 degrees. It's a good trick that, if you cut some cloth at 45 degrees it alternates the edging, it also adds a bi-axial weave direction mixed into the patch. It can be a little inefficient cutting out shapes at 45 degrees but you can always use the off cuts somewhere.
1. Discovering rotten stringers all over the place.
2. Time to stop faffing about. Big guns are needed.
3. You can see the hole ends right at the cabin bulkhead so I need to cut out a section in that bulkhead in order to allow me continuous repair access to the floor. I backed up the repair area underneath with a piece of ply covered in wax paper.
4. From here, it's basically a case of cutting out pieces of woven roving and wetting them through with epoxy. I'd say there are 15-20 pieces gone into this repair. I used 280 and 600gsm, I alternated the cut between straight and 45 degrees giving me a bi-axial mix.
5. I finished with a few nice big pieces of cloth. I then rolled the entire patch to remove air and tighten it all down. I'll leave this to cure for a week or so. I was hoping to add a few layers of cloth from the underside to form a sandwich. But it was 9pm when I got the topside done and was exhausted and crippled with back pain. Enough for one day.
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Join Date:Posts: 6045
No problem to you That should be set tomorrow it might feel a bit sticky but thats just the amine blush you have to wash that off before you sand it or add more as it will just clog up your sandpaper. If you like you can also get a white colouring to add to the last coat to make it match up.
I don't think you need to add anything to your stringers as when you fiberglass them in they should be watertight.
Your getting there now.:)0 -
No problem to you That should be set tomorrow it might feel a bit sticky but thats just the amine blush you have to wash that off before you sand it or add more as it will just clog up your sandpaper. If you like you can also get a white colouring to add to the last coat to make it match up.
I don't think you need to add anything to your stringers as when you fiberglass them in they should be watertight.
Your getting there now.:)
Fergal,
re-amine blush, wash it off with what?
re-white colouring
Are you saying add a colourant to the epoxy when laying glass?0 -
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Day 23
More of the same today while the weather allows. I grinded out and patched two other holes in the hull.
I inspected my repair from yesterday (Day 22). It definitely valleyed a bit, the backing was not strong enough and this allowed the glass / epoxy layers to sag into the wound. The new repair is sagging through the hole and about 5mm proud of the surface. So I started to grind it back flush with the underside. I learned a lesson from it. Make the backing strong, firm and flush. I'll grind it back on the underside, then grind a little on the topside and add a fiew more pieces of glass up there to compensate for the reduction in thickness that today's grinding will result in.
Also, I'm wondering if this combination of epoxy and woven coving isn't a little bit brittle? I'm sure it's my imagination and the fact that I've never done this before so I lack experience and reference. When I apply test pressure to repairs, I can hear the grp creak and crack. Not very reassuring is all. Am I being paranoid?
Once I do these local repairs, I have decided to coat the entire floor with a layer or two of coving cloth and epoxy. The floor is bloody thin, like 2-3mm and looks to me it's plastic rather than glass, at least when I grind it back, it appears as a solid white plastic. Again I lack experience and reference, I'm kinda in the dark. I wish I had an expert throw an eye over my work on site and tell me where I am going wrong.
So a few more hull patches today, and then a sad moment. The old angle grinder I had been using was getting very hot lately and much weaker in terms of load resistance. Today, it just burnt out. A few major flashes and sparks followed by a substantial amount of smoke. The old tool was on loan from a mate. He's been made aware. Funeral mass and burial tomorrow followed by a trip to Amazon for this little beauty. Also won an Ebay auction tonight for a sweet little JCB router. It's a 1/4" model, almost new with box and accessories, €50 delivered.
1. Way back in the early days of this project, the first hole I spotted in the floor brought to my attention by rocking the boat on its trailer stands. Finally patched it today.
2. As above, the patch covered with a couple of bigger cloth pieces to reinforce the floor in this area on the port side.
3. Port side again, just outside cabin at helm.
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Day 24
Just getting the floor ready for a layer of glass and epoxy. Ordered new angle grinder and a few bits and bobs from Amazon so waiting for that. Also the weather is to close in again tonight so I'll shut up talking and post a couple of pics and a review video.
1. Overlap seam where port side seating was held in place. This is now redundant and I am cutting it out throughout the floor.
2. Little Aldi Dremmel and a batch of metal cutting disks that I got from Ebay for a few pence. This tool allows me to make very precise cuts without damaging the floor.
3. Using the cutter to remove the old overlap joints so that I am left with a flush floor that can be grinded back to clean grp.
4. Review video
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So a few more hull patches today, and then a sad moment. The old angle grinder I had been using was getting very hot lately and much weaker in terms of load resistance. Today, it just burnt out. A few major flashes and sparks followed by a substantial amount of smoke. The old tool was on loan from a mate. He's been made aware. Funeral mass and burial tomorrow followed by a trip to Amazon for this little beauty. Also won an Ebay auction tonight for a sweet little JCB router. It's a 1/4" model, almost new with box and accessories, €50 delivered.
RIP
I'll miss it.
But at least my router is now safe 0 -
Join Date:Posts: 6045
Another great post
Put up a list of things you need to start finishing her, stuff you would look for if you were at a boat jumble and I will have a look and see what I have to help her get on the water.0 -
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Another great post
Put up a list of things you need to start finishing her, stuff you would look for if you were at a boat jumble and I will have a look and see what I have to help her get on the water.
Well Fergal, the plan roughly speaking is as follows.
1. Glass out the floor, fill all hull patches and fair them.
2. Add / repair stringers, need hardwood leats (1"x2" or near).
3. Repair / reinforce all topside grp damage.
4. Paint the exterior, underside and topside. I think I will go with toplac all round. Might start with a coat or two of epoxy.
5. Cable the boat, Not sure how boats are wired. I was thinking of a star/radial mix. Might create 1 or 2 light circuits and have individual switches on each light.
I need signal lights, switch panel etc (ebay).
6. Build a helm panel, I want to build a helm dash panel and mount it to the port side bulk head. This will house steering and electrics, it will be accessible from inside the cabin via a door in the bulkhead.
But before I build the panel, I need to know a bit about the steering system it will house as in dimensions etc. I have no clue as to what I will be using yet. I would like to use a single cable system so need to look into these and order one soon. I might try to reuse the old throttle cable and controls, new ones seem very expensive.
7. Build a galley on starboard and a cupboard on portside. I'll use simple builders merchants leats and WBP ply. Need to kit galley out with a stove and sink.
8. Build seating on deck. Need hardwood leats and will use marine ply.
9. Put down a floor, 18mm marine play.
10. Build a cabin door.
11. hardwood strakes, need to source and fit hardwood.
12. Gunwale fender rubber, need to source and fit. I am thinking of going with very oversized rubber here as it will create a wider toerail and make the overall appearance of the vessel a bit more substantial.
13. Need to sort out bow windows, god knows how
14. Need to sort out viser / windscreen. I an thinking of building a custom windscreen using a hardwood frame and fitted perspex, an up and over version that covers some of the deck and is suitable for my height.
15. Kit Out, if you can think of it, I probably need it. Definately need the following
- Fixtures and fittings, latches, locks etc
- Cabin interior, carpet, paint, seating foam and covers, what have you...
- SS Hinges
- SS Cleats
- SS grab rails (might go with wooden ones instead)
- SS eyes (for holding fenders)
- 12v horn
- Fenders
- Lights, port, starboard, bow, stern, interior lighting
- Fire extinguisher
- Batteries and heavy cabling
- Hooks, rope, anchor
This list is not exhaustive by any means. It's just all I can think of right now. There's still a ton of work to do.
EDIT: (knew I'd forget stuff)
Still have to sort out keels and glass them in. Don't know how I'm going to do that because it's an external repair that meets the underside gelcoat. Also I can't use matt (not with epoxy) so I need to use cloth and I'm not sure how well it wraps around tight angles.0 -
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Join Date:Posts: 6045
I have a 60's bow light and flag pole it's not 100% but looks ok if you want it
I also have two steering systems a rotary and a rack and pinion but not sure if the cable is long enough we see when the time comes.
The throttle cable you have will only fit the type of engine that was on the boat but I have some mercury ones if you need them, sometimes when you buy an engine you will get the controls and cables with it.
Lidl have some sun lounger cushions blue and white strips that might do for your seats
The carpet I use is the rubber back office carpet you can get cheep remnants from any shop.
I may also have a bow handle and cleats so hold off on buying them.
Is this the type of screen and cover your talking about.
http://roeboats.com/2011/06/02/finally-shes-ready-for-the-roadriver/0 -
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I have a 60's bow light and flag pole it's not 100% but looks ok if you want it
I also have two steering systems a rotary and a rack and pinion but not sure if the cable is long enough we see when the time comes.
The throttle cable you have will only fit the type of engine that was on the boat but I have some mercury ones if you need them, sometimes when you buy an engine you will get the controls and cables with it.
Lidl have some sun lounger cushions blue and white strips that might do for your seats The carpet I use is the rubber back office carpet you can get cheep remnants from any shop.
I may also have a bow handle and cleats so hold off on buying them.
Is this the type of screen and cover your talking about.
http://roeboats.com/2011/06/02/finally-shes-ready-for-the-roadriver/
Fergal, many many thanks for this. I am forever grateful to you for everything.
I will go with lights from Ebay cos they are so cheap and I can get a kit all in one.
re-Steering, Is there anyway I can start building the helm console without having the steering system or should I bite the bullet and buy a system now? To build the console I'll need to know sizes and ideally would need the system and the wheel in place for fitting / measuring.
Throttle cable - I'll leave until buying engine (could be years away)
Fergal, no, that screen and cover is too long. I'm only talking about a screen and cover of a foot or two, and it's merely a thought at this stage.
Flagpole bow handle and cleats might work a treat. If you come across them post a pic.0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmjnQAJTqLw
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