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Ive two of those cranksets, both handpolished by me. the other one has a 53T and 42T Sugino mMighty Comp chainring, which are also hand polished!

I'm waiting to complete a custom groupset, so far a mixture of Shimano Arabesque, Campag Record, Sugino Mighty, Shimano 600, anything that is pretty with nice detailing, drillium etc
Ive still a problem with downtube shifters so might do some custom engraving on modern shifters and a Shimano 600 rear mech to match them in, and also have indexed shifting

gman2k wrote: »

Would you mind giving a bit of info on the work involved in the polishing?

you need a lot of time and elbow grease!
It depends on the anodizing, I usually start off with p240 or p400 wet&dry abrasive paper, I do it over a sink with soapy water. then p600 after anodizing is nearly gone, then anything finer if I can get it, 3m p1000 is great but a bit of brasso is just as good. I finish off with the brasso and kitchen paper a couple of times till all the fine scratches are gone.

you really gotta have a lot of free time to do it. forearms can hurt as you get used to it. I prefer side to side rather than circular motions, the quicker you move the paper up and down the better the results will be. soapy water helps unclog the paper. I just tear the paper to whatever size suits the job, the crank spider is the toughest part to polish

the easiest way to remove anodizing is with a chemical bath= sodium hydroxide solution(casutic soda and water)
I dont use it for cranks anymore because it removes all of the surface, including the tapers. If you leave it in for too long you could mess things up.

best to do it outside as the fumes are lethal! I use this method for brake calipers, stems and hubs(loose bearing hubs, not cartridge kind), sometimes seatposts