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Hi all, please see this major site announcement: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058427594/boards-ie-2026

Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭Inviere




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,322 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    That's a great idea, I see some folks have done this already (and also modded them with 9V batteries too)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,322 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Any of you guys have a suggestion for a cheap but decent crimping tool?

    I need to crimp some 2.8mm spade connectors to a CPS2 kick harness.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,451 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    I spashed out on one from AliExpress which should be arriving today, will see if its of any use. In the past I used pliers/solder, wasn't ideal. If you don't get a suggestion, I'll let you know how this one looks/work and pop up a link.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,322 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I always forget about Aliexpress for these things. Nabbed one using the old 'new customer' deal, apparently a 30 euro set for 8 euro. We shall see 😁

    Only need it to crimp one end of 8 cables so if it works for that happy days!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,451 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Picked up the original type power supply for the Atomiswave cab.

    54452.jpg

    AliExpress crimper is grand, it's no pro tool but for the limited cables I'm ever gonna make it's solid. Will replace that top AC connection, for now I can earth against any of the frame screws.

    Online suggests these power supplies are the worst but with my existing cab and from testing this one, no issues (so far). No -5v rail but not planning on any old PCBs, it has a 12v 3.3v and oddly I thought, a 5.25v.

    More power work planned, might need to make a Faraday cage for the stepdown transformer I've got planned, will see 🙂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 731 ✭✭✭Morpork


    I have a full size 2 player cabinet (fits 24inch monitor) that's free to a good home. It includes buttons, sticks, speakers and a few spare bits and pieces. It doesn't include monitor or computer or the marquee. It's currently disassembled.

    I'll need it collected by the evening of the 14th, otherwise it's going in the skip!

    I'm in Dublin 5. Let me know if interested.

    1000017154.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,012 ✭✭✭The_B_Man
    Something about sandwiches


    @Morpork I've sent a DM, in case nobody has offered to collect it. Would hate to see put in a skip.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,322 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Here's a blast from the past. Many moons ago, maybe up to 15 years, a certain nice poster here installed a load of battery holders into carts for me.

    So long had passed, those batteries have started to die. But luckily all those years ago we future proofed for this very moment.

    1000073926.jpg 1000073927.jpg

    Good till 2040!

    Edit - just tested it out. Few minutes of gaming to get a save in, turn it all off and set it aside for a few minutes.

    1000073937.jpg

    Back in and...save is still there!

    1000073938.jpg
    Post edited by o1s1n on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,451 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Over the weekend I went on a soldering spree - removed the generic arcade PSU someone installed and returned it to orignial Wei-Ya PSU'ness. Too an age but well worth it, cab back to near normal. From testing I already found that the slight interference of the monitor is gone! No need for a new stepdown transformer I thought I needed. 'Found' a cage that covers the PSU/power workings within - l̶o̶o̶k̶s̶ is all stock now.

    PXL_20250714_204231652.jpg

    Also picked up a '6 button' adapter (JAMMA connector passthrough) which has two displays for the 5V and 12V lines - not 100% needed…but sure :D

    PXL_20250714_204322756.MP.jpg

    Picked up a instruction slip and a '100 Yen' sticker. Just the marquee light to sort out now but it is nearly there

    PXL_20250714_204526658.MP.jpg
    Post edited by KeRbDoG on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 37,322 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    That's really interesting about the lack of interference, did you recap the PSU too?

    Where'd you get that six button jamma adapter? I see jamma+ is a thing on the new MiSTercade too, there's a switch on the jamma edge to enable it. (never really knew it was a thing!)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,451 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    PSU - lesson learned, cheap/janky generic arcade PSU can cause interference. Didn't recap the new (to the cab) PSU. The existing ones look good and output voltages seem stable. Would need to test out an older board to confirm but so far OK. The monitor chassis was serviced since it was new, with little run time since so didn't think it was an issue with the monitor. Tbh, I thought I might need to change the stepdown transformer to a JPN 100V rather than US 120V to get rid of the interference.

    6 button - came from eBay from a lad in France, I totally paid more than it was worth but not a lot of folks making these adapters anymore on forums and other sources had been either US or UK based…and ordered it before I found my new semi OK 'skill' at crimping connector pins.

    The Atomiswave already has button 5 for both players going to the JAMMA connector (26+'d') which the MiSTercard and irkenlabs JAMMA Expander already support, but the 6th button is on a seperate connector. Those boards I think already expect that button 5 will be on the edge connector. I think if you flip the CHAMMA button (maybe labeled JAMMA+ on the MiSTercade?), it will also present button 6 on the edge connector…but I'm not 100% sure.

    Second part, it adds the 'kick harness' which takes the extra buttons from the board (could be a SF2 board) and connects them directly to the edge connector and also the Atomiswave button 6 seperate connector.

    End result - the cab support 6 buttons per player no matter what board is installed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 189 ✭✭tonyotonyo


    Was fiddling with a data east dark seal board last night.

    It boots (or doesn't boot?) to garbled graphics and tiles. Sometimes in colour, sometimes in black and white, then just hangs.

    Noticed that a socketed gal must have taken a knock at some point, chunk of the plastic gone at a corner, but it still appears to making physical connection.

    The other problem, which I'd hope is the magic solution, is that I found a clean cut across 3 traces.

    Otherwise the board is in very nice nick.

    I think the fine soldering on the traces and the possible replacement of the gal socket is too much for me, so I'll stick it up for sale as a project if anyone fancies it

    Post edited by tonyotonyo on


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