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Sunsynk (DEYE) Hybrid Inverters

1383941434447

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭Abromavich


    Does the inverter just read the combined voltage across the positive and negative busbars?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yes, although paralleled batteries have the same voltage. They keep each other at the same voltage



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,491 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Not the 6kWh

    My stuff on Adverts, mostly Tesla Pre Highland Model 3

    Public Profile active ads for slave1



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,961 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Looks like good value https://www.adverts.ie/other-electronics/deye-hybrid-inverters-batteries/37057425?notification=9042f9234f27e96978cd9f9b33a70ec8-1747062485



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    I'm finishing up with the installation of the solar system and Deye inverter (SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU)

    -What Grid Mode have you selected to be compliant with EN 50549-1 ESB Networks requirements?



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    These are the settings it needs to be

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    Thanks,
    I'm aware about the settings from NC6 form.
    I was asking if there is a predefine Grid Mode with this default settings.
    I haven't started up the inverter. Waiting for an electrician to connect it to fuse board.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,142 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    There is an Esb Networks setting in the inverter, I think you can up the max voltage setting though as it's out of date. Check the settings against the latest NC6 settings.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Not with them setting but I think there is a ESB Ireland or something with the more conservative settings



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    To get back with an update.
    I powered only the inverter to check/update the settings.
    There is a ESB Networks(Ireland) Grid mode but has more conservative values(I would say is the old standard).
    Good news is all this settings are editable, so I updated them according to NC6 requirements.
    P.S. I have not connected the system to the grid.

    IMG_20250519_124339.jpg IMG_20250519_124351.jpg IMG_20250519_124324.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,689 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Interesting numbers, I had a few short grid disconnects a while back and wonder if it was due to the way smaller values Deye has set for the ESB Networks profile, I think overvoltage was 251v and under at 201v but on the other hand 269v seems awfully high as well (but maybe not once everyone starts dumping to grid?)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    Yes, those values look to high/low for me as well.
    But this is what's on the NC6 form. Would the house appliances fry at 369V for 70s, or 281 for 0.7s.
    Default for Deye inverters with ESB Networks Grid Mode selected was 253V max and 201V min.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭Abromavich


    Yeah I have gotten maybe 3 or 4 over voltage grid disconnects in the past month. The default overvolt values on the Deye is definitely too conservative. Will update to the new standard.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭Abromavich


    Got around to changing the grid settings. Can anyone confirm below settings look ok? 70s @ 269V seems very long??

    image.png image.png image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    for the second screen, set the normal connect HV to 269 instead of 281.
    First part is when the inverter is connecting to the grid. You don't want to connect if the Voltage is >269<281

    On the 3rd screen set the HV3 to 269.
    Regarding the HV1 and 269 V for 70s I consider to be to high as well but this is what the NC6 values are. Probably having it at 0.7s is ok. it will disconnect when reaches 269 imediatly.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭Abromavich


    Perfect! That worked. Ive had 7 overvolt shutdowns so far this month. Seems over 250V grid voltages is becoming very common now…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 147 ✭✭pavelpro


    I'm considering buying a Deye inverter and was wondering—will it meet all the NC6 requirements, or would it be safer to go with Sunsynk instead?
    Also, could you let me know the best current prices for both? I’ve seen Deye listed on eBay for around €1,100 including shipping, and the lowest price I’ve come across for Sunsynk in the UK is about £1,000.
    Thanks in advance!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,559 ✭✭✭championc


    Solarboss sell Sunsynks. The Sunsynk is a 5.5kW, not sure if the Deye is a 5kW or a 5.5kW



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 241 ✭✭serox_21


    I've recently(about 1 month ago) purchased a Deye(SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU), for around 890€ + shipping from EU.
    although is 5Kw I think it can handle 5.5Kw continuously. On the display when sunny it would pull out from the panels 5.18Kw from a 5.28Kw installed panels.
    Regarding the NC6 compliance. It has all the certificates and specs that will be within the requirements.
    Mine is running for almost 2 weeks nows with no issue.
    I don't have a battery installed yet, on the way from China. Once I install the battery I hope it will behave as expected.

    If you buy deye/sunsynk make sure the max Voc of your string doesn't exceed 500V. Take in consideration temperature when calculating max Voc.
    I went with 6 Trina panels per string of 52Voc each.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    Does this inverter (SUN-8K-SG01LP1-EU) automatically go into island mode when the grid goes down? As in, it won't "feed in" and create a safety hazard for ESB working on the lines?



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    I see. So if the grid goes down, the inverter draws from the battery/panels to power the house? Does the Grid have to be manually isolated from the fuseboard to prevent feeding in?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    That's a different question

    If grid goes down, inverter shuts itself off from the grid. (It's AC grid connection)

    It will keep the load output live. This is what the changeover switch connects to. And allows yo run off grid.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    So the GRID connection is shut off meaning appliances in the house cannot run off battery/solar unless they are connected directly to the LOAD port on the inverter?

    Is it possible to connect the entire house to the LOAD port? (without creating a safety issue for the ESB man working on the lines)



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,281 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yes, via a changeover switch, same thing as you would use with a generator.

    If grid goes down, you can manually change over to the load output, it isolates the house from the grid and connects it to the load output of an inverter



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    Great stuff, thanks for clarifying.

    Just as a further question to this - My inverter will be connected to a secondary fuseboard in the shed that is connected to the main fuseboard in the house, so in effect, will be downstream of the home load. If the grid goes down and I switch over to the backup "LOAD" to keep the lights/oven/kettle on, would I also need a second isolator on the grid side of the main house fuseboard? ESB still have a lot of work to do around here after the storm and I don't want to inadvertently electrocute one of them.

    Edit: ok on looking more into it, the whole idea of the changeover switch is so that GRID and LOAD are never ever connected at the same time. So will have to consider another option for running the house off the battery/panels when the grid goes down. Will likely have to run a seperate SWA back to the house and have the changeover switch on the grid side of the main fuseboard. Will draw up a diagram.

    Edit2: Actually, seems @SD_DRACULA went through all this already in this thread: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058333720/change-over-switch-grid-pv/p2

    will have a read of this.

    Post edited by Markus Antonius on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,120 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    €29 from SolarAssistant with very slow shipping. Exact same part is GBP13 from Amazon with free next day delivery if you have prime (who doesn't these days?). Just ordered one…

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DPFFBNJ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    Is it necessary to wrap the battery cables around the magnetic ring? My 70mm2 cable (recommended in the manual) won't fit. Not sure whether to downsize to a 50mm2 or to not bother winding



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭Abromavich


    So I had this very issue a few days ago. I'm using 70mm2 wiring for the inverter DC connections also. Extremely difficult to loop around the magnetic ring. Its not strictly necessary to do. The purpose of passing the wire through a magnetic ring is for high frequency noise supression. More loops = higher impedence and thus more effective noise suppression. The noise may not even be audible to you or in my case the inverter is in the shed so its not really an issue. What I did was pass both positive and negative cables straight through the magnetic ring. This will still help suppress EMI. Also means I can place the ring inside the inverter with the cables just passing straight through. I havent noticed any new audible noises or seen any interferece with other devices in the shed.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,947 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    Ah, great news. Had already cut and crimped the cable, so naturally, had no slack for looping even if it did fit. Inverter will be out in shed so can howl to it's hearts content.Thanks



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