Can someone tell me what the rocker switch does on this machine just above ignition key (it has no lights)
My guess it would be the on off switch for the deck if you have an electic clutch. If not maybe you have lights that don't work :-)
Another possible if you have to hold it in is that its a reversing switch that allows you to mow in reverse without cutting out.
Wake me up when it's all over.
Almost certainly the light switch, but actual lights on the engine cover were optional depending on which clone of this 92cn generic Global Garden products mower you have. Its around as a Castlegarden, Club Garden, Tecumseh, probably others. The switch is probably there regardless of whether it was fitted with a bonnet with a light. This manual might be of use to you.
Same mower as a Tecumseh
My walk behind (B&S engine) was coughing up blue smoke this morning
After lunch it wouldn't start up, it would fire up for for 5 seconds and die
Blue smoke equals oil burning. Piston ring/seal gone, or valve guide excessively worn. Also possibly a head gasket fail next to an oil channel between cylinder and head.
You may have accidentally mixed oil/diesel into your petrol can also, all sorts if ways it happens.
Petrol leaking into the sump also, if the ca4b float valve is dirty or jammed, or the mower tilted over excessively can cause fuel/oil leakage and mixing.
yes the mower was tilted over excessively last week...clean out the carb then?
Hi . I know Agrieuro has been mentioned a few times here . I ordered a mower with them in July and haven’t had a good experience . It still hasn’t arrived and the customer support has been poor . Told me I had to chase it up with a shipping company in Germany/ not their problem .
I won’t be using them again .
Which version did you use? The UK one or the German/Italian one?
not sure if it makes a whole lot of difference to be honest, went to the Italian version first and then got directed to the UK one. their Customer support etc are all the one. 21 days since I ordered. They sent a bottle of oil with the machine (separately) which arrived last Friday. I was onto them again today to ask where was the mower and they told me I got it last week. an actual shambles.
It makes a huge difference. The UK one has ground to a halt due to brexit restrictions. Anything they try to ship or stock is tied up at customs.
Agreed, other than trivial purchases from Amazon, buying from the UK is a cluster****. Also with the removal of the €30 customs exemption, every tiny packet is now subject to scrutiny. I'm surprised you weren't asked for VAT on the bottle of oil, unless it was dispatched from Italy.
Looking for a used ride on around the 1000-1200 mark or thereabouts. Anyone know if the following are decent machines; Husqvarna TC138 or CT151 and Jonsered Supervac?
A lot of machines have the Kohler engine - is this good or best to go with B&S?
Any help appreciated.
Double checked and it was the Italian site alright . All the order emails after that came in Italian which wasn’t helpful !
mower finally arrived yesterday so at least I have it now .
dachser logistics on the Irish leg , they were great to deal with .
Looking for some lawn mower advice. 6 year old machine, Briggs and Stratton engine.
Stopped working and repair guy just put compression tester on it, and said it's lost compression and is knackered. He hasn't looked into why it's lost compression.
Am I right to think I should be getter longer out of a lawn mower engine? It's self propelled, and had to get the gearbox/clutch for that repaired last year.
Do I just go out and get a new lawnmower, or look into repairing this one, or replacing the engine? I just get a feeling the repair guy doesn't want to look at it as he's always very busy.
Thinking of a Honda engined mower for the next, as B&S haven't lasted too long long the past two mowers I've had.
Is it also possible to get one that mulches and bags, so I can switch between options for different areas?
A lot of questions, so thanks for any help!
Jonsered and Husqvarna the same company. A 97cm mower used under 1200 will be somewhere between perfectly servicable and heading for trouble depending on the hours worked, terrain traversed and care it received. Inspect steering joints an front axle for play, deck and grass chute for corrosion, engine for starting, smoke, oil for colour and clarity. Look for cracks in major metal struts and supports, deck supports, front wheel kingpins, pedal and steering. And don't forget the seat and its subframe. Heavy use over rough ground will shake the guts out of any machine. Buying from a dealer will generally get you a short but useful warranty. Buying private might get you a gem, someone with a half acre of billiard table grass and a dry garage to store it in, but people seem to overestimate the value of well worn machines. A €500 mower could cost that again for certain major repairs if you can't diy them.
The lost compression might be severe wear, (did you check oil levels over the 6 years?), broken piston rings, burnt valves, but if it's bad enough that suddenly it won't start it might only be a head gasket. These can fail and reduce compression so severely that restarting is not possible. It's very simple to pop off the head to confirm, all the work is usually in sourcing the correct gasket. A 6 year old machine would be worth an engine fix provided it wasn't catastrophically worn/damaged from misuse or neglect.
It's my father that uses it 95% of the time. He just doesn't believe/understand in maintenance. Previous mower seized twice from not putting oil in it, but I was able to fix that issue myself. So might be similar issue that caused the problem with this one.
Is there a best time of the year to buy a mower? As in, at the end of the season, there's better deals?
I might go for a Honda, and then try fix this one over the winter myself.
He'll knacker an expensive Honda just as quickly! Go for something with power to spare, a large 2 cylinder engine, that will be only 'ticking over' when in use. Like this, http://www.adverts.ie/23618991
or this Honda.
That Honda does look good. I had looked at a ride on lawnmower before this last mower was bought. But he went ahead and got this one after being asked not to. Even though it was me who was paying for it!
That's child abuse, sort of. Report him to.... the SPCL(awnmowers)
Hi all, newbie here. Does anyone know an Irish retailer of the Oregon Brushcutter Mulching blade - I’ve seen them on Amazon but there’s a 2 month delay apparently. Not mad about buying from us anyhow. Has anyone any experience of these? Looking to attack some blackberry patches that someone has let get out of hand
For the second time this summer the drive belt has gone on my Castelgarden TC102 Hydro (see pic). I changed it March 2020 and it lasted until March this year, then it split, and 2 days ago it split again. Prior to March 2020 (since about 2006), I personally had never changed it, though it is possible it was changed at times when I used to take it into the shop for servicing. The one I replaced in March 2020 was very very worn and stretched - it looked like it had been on for years.
I have replaced it now, but I want to get opinions as to what might be causing this.
I have checked all the pulley wheels & guides and there doesn't appear to be anything in them that might be causing a split. So I have two theories:
On 2., I really like the place I get my parts from - they are online, very reliable with fast delivery, fairly priced and, in the past have sent replacement parts at no extra cost when I ordered the wrong item. I don't want to name them here, as I don't think it would be fair.
Anyway - opinions welcome. Thanks :)
Apologies for the bump - but any feedback/opinions on the above (apart from criticism of my sandals and lily white feet :))
Hi Tombrown last time this happened to me it was the pulley on the chassis either side of the transmission on my JD Lr135 a Castelgarden clone - they can’t be seen unless you put the mower standing up on 2x boards or blocks about 2-3inches thick . I’ve also switched to Kevlar belts which so far is showing no wear after 4yrs.
I'd go with 2. The belts you are using are not suitable for clutched use. It is the blade drive belt we're looking at? Is it a manual or electric clutch? A kevlar or wrapped belt will have less 'stiction' when engaged, it will slip momentarily as it transfers the engine torque to the deck. I've used really cheap (<€15) standard V belts on a TC102 manual deck engage in the past, they tended to 'snatch' as they were engaged, so I would run them in when new with a slow engage of the manual clutch. They did tend to fail in a couple of years, exactly like yours in the pic, and often when a small stick would poke in. Like you, the original worn belt was fully intact, just too worn for proper grip. I'd pop it back on till I grabbed another cheapo belt in a generic belt and bearing place in Bluebell.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I have looked at all the pulleys & they seem to be running freely. Also this is the main drive belt (for driving the wheels) not the blade drive belt; the latter was fitted by the local shop & has no signs of wear.
So I think the belts I use are probably poor quality. Can you recommend a good online supplier of tevlar belts that I can use?
Anyway, I have a new belt fitted which should at least see me through this season (plus I have a spare), so, if I can get a tevlar belt, I'll fit it when I service the machine next year
Sorry for the mixup. If it is the transmission drive belt, and it is a Hydrostatic drive, then such a belt runs at a steady rate, no electric or jockey wheel clutch impact. What could be causing the damage is misaligned/damaged tensioner pulleys, or the belt may have been installed wrong side of a guide pin (designed to keep the belt from jumping a pulley due to backslap with sudden deceleration). Low tension due to a mis sized belt would cause slippage up at the engine pulley, which could prematurely wear the belt. Otherwise, a decent quality V belt of the correct size should last. Hydro drives are very easy on belts, all the sudden chucks and forces are absorbed by the transmission, so something is chewing the edge or inner surface of your belt. Max JD blames the guide pulleys flanking the main transmission pulley, though he doesn't say what was amiss, (pulley seized/loose/bent/ damaged? wrong path around a retention pin?) You'll have to get under and have a closer look at the belt path. You don't want to chew an expensive Kevlar belt, which I wouldn't deem necessary for a hydro drive.
I have been under it a number of times & am sure the belt is correctly routed around the pulleys & guides, and all the pulleys seem fine. I'll inspect again and see if I can see the issue
Harry Petrol Lawnmower. Spluttering engine. Engine labouring quite a bit.
Is this a clue?: The engine starts up easily and runs normally for about 20 seconds, then it starts losing power.
I've tried (I think) all the usual suspects, bar changing the spark plug. On that point, can an old spark plug cause an engine to lose power when running?
dirty carburettor maybe
Thanks Fryup. I’ll follow that up.