the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Brian? · 17-06-2021 12:19PM

TaSeThat wrote: »

Another follow up question which again may be stupid. I measured the chain links and looks like they are as in the vid link, more than an 1/8 inch out from the centre link after measure about a foot down the chain. So looks like I'll definitely change the chain and to be sure the cassette (it has been a few years and nothing touched/changed on the bike so probably worth doing).

So my stupid question - my bike to work scheme has probably come around again. The original bike cost me about 1200 (so probably around 600 net cost to me). With the cost of a chain, cassette and possibly the chain ring (definitely the first 2 anyway and possibly disk brakes that also have not been touched) would I be better off buying a new bike. I may get more bang for my buck now than I did 5 years ago, plus I'd be getting a new bike with guarantee/warranty and 3 month checkup. I could list the current bike for about 450-500 to cover 95% of the net cost of a new bike.
I'm not trying to be lazy, honest, just seems to make sense unless I'm overlooking something. FYI the bike is a Canondale FSA I think it says.
cheers in advance

Don't sell your bike, learn to do the work yourself and do the maintenance. Over the years doing your own maintenance will cover the cost of your next new bike.

TaSeThat · 17-06-2021 12:28PM

Cheers guys, off to Amazon so for new parts. Then Youtube for the dirty work...as you say it would be worth it in the end.

Brian? · 17-06-2021 12:50PM

TaSeThat wrote: »

Cheers guys, off to Amazon so for new parts. Then Youtube for the dirty work...as you say it would be worth it in the end.

In Ireland check chain reaction for parts first.

hesker · 17-06-2021 01:59PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

or even just compare a fresh sprocket against the worn one?

I’m pretty sure I did that with side by side photo comparison. If I can dig it out I’ll post it.

TaSeThat · 17-06-2021 02:21PM

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

magicbastarder · 17-06-2021 02:28PM

not sure if the chainrings look all *that* bad? but others will know better. it's quite obvious though that the inner ring is barely used, leading to the other thing that is worth mentioning - you're cross chained there. i.e. you've gone from big ring on the front to big sprocket on the back, which increases chain wear, as the chain has to bend sideways through an angle twice to seat onto the teeth. the same gear ratio can be obtained by going from small on the front to probably third largest on the back without causing the same deflection.

also, there looks to be a lot of scraping on the pie plate - i.e. the plastic disc between the cassette and the spokes; this could indicate that your rear derailleur is moving too far in and the chain is rubbing off the pie plate, which could indicate mis-indexing (which will also cause wear).

lastly, yes, the little cogs on the RD can be replaced separately, they're called jockey wheels and should not cost much more than a tenner.

anyway, first thing i'd do if i were you is to call into a halfords if there's one near you and buy a chain checker - they're under a tenner and would be a cheap way of verifying the chain wear - i've seen people cycling around on chains a *hell* of a lot grubbier looking than that.

cletus · 17-06-2021 02:31PM

Just a quick note here. You don't need to buy a new derailleur, new jockey wheels will suffice.

*Edit* MB in ahead of me

TaSeThat · 17-06-2021 02:45PM

Thanks again all, I'll run into Halfords as I need Degreaser anyway. Yep, good spot Sherlock on the gear changes and plastic thingy - I have a habit of jumping onto the rear and front "large cogs" instead of doing what you say - small front cog and 3rd rear back cog.
I'll have a look at the rear derailer to see about "aligning" it correctly (I remember seeing a Youtube video on that before which I may have saved to my favourites).
Learning a lot and thanks for all the input/answers guys.

Brian? · 17-06-2021 03:01PM

TaSeThat wrote: »

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

Give everything a good clean and fit a new chain. The rest is probably ok. It's very very unlikely you need to replace the rear derailleur jockey wheels.

Clean all, replace the chain. If there's no skipping or slipping in gear, drive on.

Edit: I just checked the close up of the rear derailleur. I've never seen damage like that! Replace the jockey wheels and figure out what it was hitting

hesker · 17-06-2021 03:05PM

hesker wrote: »

I’m pretty sure I did that with side by side photo comparison. If I can dig it out I’ll post it.

Here are the photos. New vs Worn. You can see wear on the worn one but can you tell that it is worn to the point that it is unusable

magicbastarder · 17-06-2021 03:09PM

this was the chain wear tool i got in halfords, but it's not listed on halfords.ie anymore so i don't know if they still stock them:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyclo-Tools-Chain-Indicator-Silver/dp/B005C8N6U6/ref=asc_df_B005C8N6U6/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310669108494&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6321086863203030893&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-610908425947&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

07Lapierre · 17-06-2021 03:44PM

TaSeThat wrote: »

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

1. give the bike a claen.
2. buy this...(think of it as an investment!)
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-bike-tool-kit-18-piece
3. subscribe to Park Tools on Youtube and start learning how maintain your bike. you wont regret it.

devonp · 18-06-2021 06:50PM

hesker wrote: »

Here are the photos. New vs Worn. You can see wear on the worn one but can you tell that it is worn to the point that it is unusable

on the trailing edges of the teeth esp on the 3 o' clock to 5/6 o' clock ones there is a sharp edge with a little point at the top ....not good news (most likely worn chain did the damage)

just fitted a new chain to my 2 yr old Chorus cassette (prob about 8K)...skipping in the middle cogs only when any power applied
ordered a new cassette from Mantel tuesday might arrive tmrw :rolleyes:

many sources ,YouTUbe etc say this behaviour and wear indicate new cassette time...guess i'll find out this weekend

CantGetNoSleep · 19-06-2021 10:18AM

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

cletus · 19-06-2021 11:44AM

I can't answer your question definitively, but heres a video where dude makes a chain out of nothing but master links

https://youtu.be/m1y95ztSY5U

07Lapierre · 19-06-2021 11:56AM

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

You’d have to break the chain in two and add a second split link. Reason is you can’t link two split links to each other.

Ive never done this and if I were you I’d fit a new chain. (Just for peace of mind and not for any negative technical reason)

burger1979 · 19-06-2021 09:06PM

OK folks, so a kind of bike maintenance question. Thinking of changing the chainset from 52/36 to 53/39. Currently run with a 52/36 - 11/28, and its fine, but I am getting a little bit stronger and was thinking of upgrading the chainset to the 39 inner. Anyone done this and did you use any calculator to find out what speed/range you had on the gears? thanks,

magicbastarder · 19-06-2021 10:40PM

sort of terrain do you cover? i.e. do you use the inner ring a lot? because the difference on the outer ring is less than 2%, and unless you're running out of gears, i'm not sure there's that much to be gained.

Brian? · 20-06-2021 08:34AM

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

You can add a new link no problem, but I wouldn’t add a 2nd quick link.

Brian? · 20-06-2021 08:36AM

burger1979 wrote: »

OK folks, so a kind of bike maintenance question. Thinking of changing the chainset from 52/36 to 53/39. Currently run with a 52/36 - 11/28, and its fine, but I am getting a little bit stronger and was thinking of upgrading the chainset to the 39 inner. Anyone done this and did you use any calculator to find out what speed/range you had on the gears? thanks,

Do you find yourself spinning out a 52x11 much? Fair play if you do, but I wouldn’t bother if I was you.

velo.2010 · 20-06-2021 01:33PM

Anyone know of any shop that I may be able to drop a wheel in to be trued without too much of a wait? I ask because CSS are saying their lead times for repair are a month.

Mundo7976 · 20-06-2021 01:57PM

velo.2010 wrote: »

Anyone know of any shop that I may be able to drop a wheel in to be trued without too much of a wait? I ask because CSS are saying their lead times for repair are a month.

Humphries iin finglas did one for me recently, same day service. Ring beforehand to make sure their not too busy though.

Wildly Boaring · 20-06-2021 02:57PM

I'm finding I need to tighten the head a lot to stop it rocking in the bearings.

This normal?

Wishbone Ash · 20-06-2021 03:18PM

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

I'm finding I need to tighten the head a lot to stop it rocking in the bearings.

This normal?

No.

Are you ensuring that you are loosening the stem bolts first before tightening the head nut?

Wildly Boaring · 20-06-2021 03:34PM

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

No.

Are you ensuring that you are loosening the stem bolts first before tightening the head nut?

Yep

Brian? · 20-06-2021 03:45PM

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Yep

Bearings could be gone.

Wildly Boaring · 20-06-2021 03:52PM

Brian? wrote: »

Bearings could be gone.

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

Brian? · 20-06-2021 04:00PM

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

There’s something wrong. You should torque the head bolt to the right value and not go mad on it to get it tight.

Did you change the bearings recently?

Brian? · 20-06-2021 04:06PM

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

Have a look at this

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/stem-removal-installation-threadless

Is there a load of spacers under the stem? Pay attention to the height between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem. Shouldn’t be more than 3mm

Wildly Boaring · 20-06-2021 04:07PM

Brian? wrote: »

There’s something wrong. You should torque the head bolt to the right value and not go mad on it to get it tight.

Did you change the bearings recently?

I'll have to get my hands on torque wrench.
But feels too tight.

Inspected the bearings and frame yesterday. No wear anywhere so put the old ones back in.
Had to put a little tube around the allen key to get the torque into it

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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