the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Macy0161 · 08-06-2021 04:41PM

Thanks, I was pretty certain, but Bill Gates had taken control...

vicwatson · 08-06-2021 09:15PM

Brian? wrote: »

I would suspect the problem isn't the derailleur limit, as MB said, check that your rear wheel is centered correctly.

If the derailleur was that far out of whack, I think the chain would drop off when you shifted to the smallest cog.

It did

CramCycle · 08-06-2021 10:57PM

54and56 wrote: »

I got back on and cycled home fairly slowly and the bike feels ok but given I ploughed into the bike in front I'm a bit worried in case there is any damage done to the front forks. The front wheel seems to be spinning fairly true and the forks look fine to me but I'm guessing I should be doing more than an untrained visual inspection and should drop it into the LBS for them to give it the once over?

I'm going to go against everyone here, if its a crash you walk away from and there doesn't even appear to be a paint chip on the frame, if it was me, I would be happy to use again. Riders crash in races all the time and get back up on the bike with nary a worry. All you need to know is the choice is yours but if it was mine, I wouldn't think twice about it.

Brian? · 09-06-2021 04:59AM

CramCycle wrote: »

I'm going to go against everyone here, if its a crash you walk away from and there doesn't even appear to be a paint chip on the frame, if it was me, I would be happy to use again. Riders crash in races all the time and get back up on the bike with nary a worry. All you need to know is the choice is yours but if it was mine, I wouldn't think twice about it.

I completely agree. My point earlier was that a LBS giving it a once over is no more use than doing it yourself. It’s probably grand though.

nicksnikita · 09-06-2021 06:20AM

CramCycle wrote: »

I'm going to go against everyone here, if its a crash you walk away from and there doesn't even appear to be a paint chip on the frame, if it was me, I would be happy to use again. Riders crash in races all the time and get back up on the bike with nary a worry. All you need to know is the choice is yours but if it was mine, I wouldn't think twice about it.

The right answer is probably somewhere in the middle I’d say.
If I was running carbon bars, stem and wheels,
I would be wary.
If not, a good visual inspection and, if possible, a second opinion from someone in the know would give confidence.

Macy0161 · 09-06-2021 08:16AM

When I crashed, I had my LBS look at it - they put it on a jig to give it a thorough visual inspection? It was enough for me to be happy, but cost more than just a once over. It was the old Harry's before the change of ownership.

07Lapierre · 09-06-2021 09:11AM

I hit a car about six weeks ago. Smashed both shifters, bent a bottle cage, and bike was thrown across the road. Carbon frame and fork didn’t have a mark on them. Replaced the shifters, new bar tape and bikes as good as new.

magicbastarder · 09-06-2021 09:49AM

07Lapierre wrote: »

I hit a car about six weeks ago.

mod note - you were in a collision involving a cyclist and a car about six weeks ago. the driver was unhurt.

Seth Brundle · 09-06-2021 10:03AM

magicbastarder wrote: »

mod note - you were in a collision involving a cyclist and a car about six weeks ago. the driver was unhurt.

Sending thoughts and prayers!

8valve · 09-06-2021 11:33AM

Seth Brundle wrote: »

Sending thoughts and prayers!

And hugs.

NEVER forget the hugs.

Oh wait. There's a pandemic. NO HUGGING, EVERYONE!

Brian? · 10-06-2021 11:45AM

Not a question, but a general maintenance comment:

Decathlon own brand degreaser is unreal. Takes off grease like nobodies business and leaves little or no residue as it's high on solvent content. I wouldn't use it inside though.

magicbastarder · 10-06-2021 11:52AM

Brian? wrote: »

it's high on solvent content. I wouldn't use it inside though.

because you'd be high on solvent content too?

Brian? · 10-06-2021 01:47PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

because you'd be high on solvent content too?

Exactly.

Now I've nothing against solvent abuse, but i had to drive this afternoon.

I save huffing paint thinners for the weekends.

loyatemu · 10-06-2021 03:25PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

because you'd be high on solvent content too?

10-06-2021 06:53PM

Weepsie wrote: »

I've got my first set of hydraulic brakes/shifters, however, they are set up continental style, and one needs to be routed internally.

How messy a job is it disconnecting them from the caliper or shifter and routing it through? I feel like it's one for the LBS, but would like to have some of it done before bringing it there, though won't be much as I cant remove the pressfit BB nor, can I fit the replacement

How does the rear hosing route though the frame, is it from a hole on the right side? Might leave it a little on the short side if you move it to the left break perhaps?

11-06-2021 07:55AM

A connectamajig or stealthamajig I think it's called if it's the part I think you're talking about.

Paul Kiernan · 11-06-2021 11:03AM

Weepsie wrote: »

So switching hoses around while theyre off the bike was mostly trouble free. I say mostly as I didn't prepare for the likelihood of the reservoir spilling out brake fluid when I removed the covers.

Anyway, I think the rear will be fine to be cut, but the front one might now be too short.

Anyone know if you can get a junction/connector thing for SRAM hydraulic cables. I know you can for Shimano, but not sure about SRAM

I'm in the same boat having just bought a bike from nilhg which is the wrong way round (or the right way round if you're nilhg!).

Bear in mind that if you cut the cable you'll have to refit the cable insert which is a bastard to get in. I also imagine you'll have to get a bleed kit and add fluid. AFAIK if the cables are fitted with the connectamajigs you can swap them around without needing to cut anything or re-bleed. However you wont get the cables through an internally routed frame in that case.

1971bsb · 11-06-2021 04:38PM

Can anyone reccomend good YouTube videos for setting up SRAM Red and Force groupsets - manual, not electronic. Thanks in advance.

g0g · 12-06-2021 07:42AM

Is there an easy idiot-proof way to slightly tighten the bite point on hydraulic disc brakes? Shimano ST-7020. Bike is fairly new but I've been doing a lot of descending steep enough slopes on the brakes. Feels like to fully squeeze the brakes the lever is pretty much touching my bar tape. I saw something online about removing wheel and trying to advance the pads or something but that sounds messy. There's no simple minor adjustment screw thing somewhere I haven't spotted is there?

crumliniano · 12-06-2021 06:19PM

Does anyone know how to loosen campagnolo brake calipers so they will open wider? I can't find any youtube videos on this. I have new wheels and the chorus calipers with new brake pads are too tight, the wheel won't even rotate. I've released the cable fully and adjusted the barrel adjusters but they just don't open enough.

07Lapierre · 12-06-2021 06:35PM

crumliniano wrote: »

Does anyone know how to loosen campagnolo brake calipers so they will open wider? I can't find any youtube videos on this. I have new wheels and the chorus calipers with new brake pads are too tight, the wheel won't even rotate. I've released the cable fully and adjusted the barrel adjusters but they just don't open enough.

You do it by pushing the pin on the brake lever.

https://youtu.be/4AU8aOlfXU4

crumliniano · 12-06-2021 07:49PM

07Lapierre wrote: »

You do it by pushing the pin on the brake lever.

https://youtu.be/4AU8aOlfXU4

Thanks o7Lapierre. I'm familiar with the quick release pin alright. That opens the calipers wider for dropping out the wheels - give a few mm extra clearance to get around the tyre. In this case it is so tight that it is tight against the rim (braking surface). I need it to open out further.

07Lapierre · 12-06-2021 07:53PM

crumliniano wrote: »

Thanks o7Lapierre. I'm familiar with the quick release pin alright. That opens the calipers wider for dropping out the wheels - give a few mm extra clearance to get around the tyre. In this case it is so tight that it is tight against the rim (braking surface). I need it to open out further.

When you disconnect the brake cable, does the caliper open wider?

crumliniano · 12-06-2021 08:04PM

07Lapierre wrote: »

When you disconnect the brake cable, does the caliper open wider?

No not wide enough. Still clenched on the braking surface

07Lapierre · 12-06-2021 08:20PM

That’s unusual. Maybe post a photo or two? Is it possible the caliper needs to be disassembled, cleaned, greased and reassembled?

How wide are your wheel rims?

crumliniano · 12-06-2021 08:38PM

FWIW I figured a hack - I removed the washers between the caliper arm and the brake block. Gave me just enough clearance.

Wildly Boaring · 12-06-2021 08:41PM

Alright folks.

My bike is on the go a couple years. Done at least 5000km.

Outside of cleaning it, replacing pad, keeping the gears indexed and brakes right.

What else should I be doing?
I lube any moving parts: derailleurs, brakes, pedals.

Do i need to grease the head?
I've replaced 1 brake cable, rest seem good.

magicbastarder · 12-06-2021 08:46PM

yeah, cleaning the headset would be a good idea. do you occasionally take out the seatpost, clean and regrease/repaste it?

07Lapierre · 12-06-2021 08:46PM

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Alright folks.

My bike is on the go a couple years. Done at least 5000km.

Outside of cleaning it, replacing pad, keeping the gears indexed and brakes right.

What else should I be doing?
I lube any moving parts: derailleurs, brakes, pedals.

Do i need to grease the head?
I've replaced 1 brake cable, rest seem good.

Gear shift cables...I'd replace those,as they tend to fray inside the shifters. If they do, getting the cables out of the shifters can be a pain. I'd replace the complete cables (inner and outer casing).
What about brake pads and tyres?

Wildly Boaring · 12-06-2021 08:47PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

yeah, cleaning the headset would be a good idea. do you occasionally take out the seatpost, clean and regrease/repaste it?

Ah yeah. Seatpost comes out any time the bike goes in the wife's car.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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