the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 04-06-2021 08:48PM

i have a spare pair of aksiums i can use; good call, cheers.

edit: rim brakes.

Brian? · 05-06-2021 05:48AM

07Lapierre wrote: »

My money is on wheel or freehub bearings.

My money is on phase 1 of bb failure

magicbastarder · 05-06-2021 08:01AM

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

nicksnikita · 05-06-2021 08:24AM

magicbastarder wrote: »

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

Make sure the QR skewers are fully engaged on the dropouts.
Also make sure the QR have a light coating of grease on any metal/metal contact points. This was causing a creak under load on my road bike for weeks until I got rid of it last week.

Brian? · 05-06-2021 11:59AM

magicbastarder wrote: »

I'm hoping it's that simple. I've had the bike nearly three years now, and the previous owner had mileage on the same bb too.

My own BB just went from phase 1(What's that clicking sound) to phase 2 (I think my BB is going, that's a lot of clicking).

I'm dreading taking it out. I bought the bike last summer, no idea of the history. It's a steel frame from the mid 90s. I foresee some cursing ahead.

nicksnikita · 05-06-2021 12:26PM

Brian? wrote: »

My own BB just went from phase 1(What's that clicking sound) to phase 2 (I think my BB is going, that's a lot of clicking).

I'm dreading taking it out. I bought the bike last summer, no idea of the history. It's a steel frame from the mid 90s. I foresee some cursing ahead.

I had to get my old man and a 12 foot pipe (literally) recently to help with removal of a sq-taper bb.
Worst I’d seen

Rechuchote · 05-06-2021 01:35PM

Jeremy Sproket wrote: »

Thanks Cram.. I wouldn't know a good bike from a bad if [deleted for delicacy]*. I just want something to jaunt around on in the fair weather, yes I'm one of those fair weather cyclists.

*also kid

A good bike is light** but strong, with the right frame size*** for you, and set up right in terms of where the saddle and handlebars are set; depending on your taste it can be sit-up-and-beg with hub gears or none, or require a bendy-overy stance. When you're sitting on the saddle and holding the handlebars with the ball of your foot (behind the toes) on the pedal at its lowest, your knee should be a little bent. To my mind you should be able to leap down in an emergency without risk to your manhood, but again that's a matter of taste.

Now everyone can start fighting over this.

**Preferably not heavier than 14kg, in my opinion

*** https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/how-to-measure-a-bike-frame-our-complete-guide-to-sizing-a-bike/

Brian? · 05-06-2021 06:08PM

nicksnikita wrote: »

I had to get my old man and a 12 foot pipe (literally) recently to help with removal of a sq-taper bb.
Worst I’d seen

I’m doing the lottery tonight. I went to take off the BB and that was actually loose. It hadn’t been installed properly, so I tightened it up and it’s smooth as butter.

05-06-2021 08:37PM

Damaged a rim on the front wheel of a road bike with an interaction with a kerb

Wheel that came with the bike - lower-end fulcrum model so not a valuable wheel

Have seen videos of people using an adjustable spanner to bend it out or would I be likely to make a balls of it?

Any idea how much a repair might be?

05-06-2021 08:38PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zg4ZFruCfSg

Type 17 · 05-06-2021 08:44PM

Use an adjustable spanner - go very gently and reposition often and keep looking after every ‘bite’. (Measure twice, bite once is the method). Aim for a little bulge which you can smooth down with a file or some sandpaper and a narrow block.

magicbastarder · 05-06-2021 08:54PM

glasso wrote: »

Have seen videos of people using an adjustable spanner to bend it out or would I be likely to make a balls of it?

i suspect you tackling it would not be using tactics much different from a bike shop tackling it.

velo.2010 · 05-06-2021 08:59PM

Recently noticed that my (I guess) leggings have worn away the clearcoat on the side of the top tube. Not a big deal but just to protect the carbon I might have a look a DIY repair. Anyone anything to add to the following steps gleaned from Youtube et al.

Mask off area.
Clean/prep
Wet/dry sanding
Apply clearcoat/lacquer
Sand excess(going up in grit)
Polish

magicbastarder · 05-06-2021 09:13PM

my first reaction is what is up with your positioning that you've managed to wear away the top coat of the frame with your leg!

velo.2010 · 05-06-2021 09:30PM

Positioning is fine. I'm guessing the occasional light rub against the frame, with leggings on, has very gradually over time has rubbed against the clear coat on one side. Could be something else.

Anyway, any tips would be welcome.

nicksnikita · 05-06-2021 11:56PM

Brian? wrote: »

I’m doing the lottery tonight. I went to take off the BB and that was actually loose. It hadn’t been installed properly, so I tightened it up and it’s smooth as butter.

Mint!

Brian? · 06-06-2021 06:47AM

glasso wrote: »

Damaged a rim on the front wheel of a road bike with an interaction with a kerb

Wheel that came with the bike - lower-end fulcrum model so not a valuable wheel

Have seen videos of people using an adjustable spanner to bend it out or would I be likely to make a balls of it?

Any idea how much a repair might be?

Good luck with that, let us know how it goes. I would buy a new wheel myself

CramCycle · 06-06-2021 07:43AM

Jeremy Sproket wrote: »

Thanks Cram.. I wouldn't know a good bike from a bad if it sailed through a red light* and hit me. I just want something to jaunt around on in the fair weather, yes I'm one of those fair weather cyclists.

What distance are you looking to cover? is it flat or hilly? Is it rural or urban (amount of stop starting)?

54and56 · 06-06-2021 12:40PM

How best to check a carbon bike for damage post an accident?

The cyclist in front of me somehow went down suddenly yesterday and I was boxed in with a wall on the left and another cyclist on the right. We both tried to swerve right to avoid hitting him but his bike slid right and I couldn't avoid it so ended up going over the top and hit his bike and the deck myself. No major visible damage done to the bike and I got away lightly enough with a few bruises and scratches to my arms and legs as I somehow ended up coming down on my own handlebars.

I got back on and cycled home fairly slowly and the bike feels ok but given I ploughed into the bike in front I'm a bit worried in case there is any damage done to the front forks. The front wheel seems to be spinning fairly true and the forks look fine to me but I'm guessing I should be doing more than an untrained visual inspection and should drop it into the LBS for them to give it the once over?

magicbastarder · 06-06-2021 01:27PM

your problem is a typical local bike shop probably won't stand over a visual inspection (well, i'd be wary about trusting one which did) - you'd need to x-ray it to be sure.
a bike shop would be very wary of passing off a frame as OK if there's hidden damage, and they could end up being held responsible for any subsequent damage/injuries.
but there are carbon repair places which should be able to assess for you.

Brian? · 06-06-2021 03:36PM

54and56 wrote: »

How best to check a carbon bike for damage post an accident?

The cyclist in front of me somehow went down suddenly yesterday and I was boxed in with a wall on the left and another cyclist on the right. We both tried to swerve right to avoid hitting him but his bike slid right and I couldn't avoid it so ended up going over the top and hit his bike and the deck myself. No major visible damage done to the bike and I got away lightly enough with a few bruises and scratches to my arms and legs as I somehow ended up coming down on my own handlebars.

I got back on and cycled home fairly slowly and the bike feels ok but given I ploughed into the bike in front I'm a bit worried in case there is any damage done to the front forks. The front wheel seems to be spinning fairly true and the forks look fine to me but I'm guessing I should be doing more than an untrained visual inspection and should drop it into the LBS for them to give it the once over?

I don’t think you can check, short of an X Ray.

54and56 · 07-06-2021 10:18PM

Brian? wrote: »

I don’t think you can check, short of an X Ray.

Feck, don't suppose (given the growth in carbon frame bikes) that there is a bike x-ray facility anywhere in Dublin?

magicbastarder · 07-06-2021 10:25PM

the bike shop in greystones do carbon repairs IIRC - best bet is to search 'carbon repair' on the forum here.

vicwatson · 07-06-2021 10:28PM

Front derailleur is a triple chainset and recently when you drop to the smallest one the derailleur rubs off the tire

There are two screws on it - can you tell me which one to adjust to stop it moving too far in towards the tyre?

magicbastarder · 07-06-2021 10:31PM

are you sure the wheel/tyre is centred properly?
if the FD itself had moved its lower limit, you would also probably be seeing chain rub where there had been none before.

wheelo01 · 07-06-2021 11:04PM

Not specifically a bike repair question, but here goes - I washed my Garmin Heart Rate Monitor strap the other day, it was working perfectly up until then.
The 520 + now "finds" it, but loses it almost as quick. I have tried changing the battery, just in case, but it's just the same.
Is there something you have to do to the contacts, or the parts where it touches skin after washing it??

Thanks in advance.

Brian? · 08-06-2021 07:14AM

vicwatson wrote: »

Front derailleur is a triple chainset and recently when you drop to the smallest one the derailleur rubs off the tire

There are two screws on it - can you tell me which one to adjust to stop it moving too far in towards the tyre?

I would suspect the problem isn't the derailleur limit, as MB said, check that your rear wheel is centered correctly.

If the derailleur was that far out of whack, I think the chain would drop off when you shifted to the smallest cog.

Macy0161 · 08-06-2021 03:41PM

I think the 5G is messing with my head at this stage (still feeling ropey post vaccine at the weekend), but "28 inch" wheel should fit a road bike? Looking at Dyno "trekking" wheels for the commuter/ audax bike?

Brian? · 08-06-2021 03:45PM

Macy0161 wrote: »

I think the 5G is messing with my head at this stage (still feeling ropey post vaccine at the weekend), but "28 inch" wheel should fit a road bike? Looking at Dyno "trekking" wheels for the commuter/ audax bike?

700c at 28inch are almost exactly the same

Type 17 · 08-06-2021 04:29PM

The ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation) rim size for road/gravel bikes, hybrids and 29'er MTBs are all 622mm.

The inch sizes are measured to the outside of the tyre, which obviously vary greatly, which is why things get confusing:

28" (today's road/gravel/hybrid) are 622mm
27" (old english road bikes and tourers) sound like they should be smaller, but are actually a bigger rim size - 630mm
28" (but not that 28" - old english roadsters & dutch-style bikes) are bigger again at 635mm
29" (modern MTBs) are actually only 622mm, like road bikes' 28"/700c, but the big tyres means they are called 29'ers

Where possible, don't bother with inch sizes, always confirm with the ETRTO size.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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