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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,233 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Anyone had issues with an Ultegra rh hydraulic shifter?

    I’ve seen links to issues for LH 105 shifter but wondering if that solution would work? I’m just curious really as hike going to lbs for solution as it’s a new bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭tdf7187


    why does the RD need replacement? jockey wheels i could understand, that'd be a tenner maybe.

    There is slippage in some gears. High and low limit, alignment screws all fine so by a process of elimination I figure it is either bent derailleur or needs new cassette. Don't see point in getting one replaced if turns out to be the other. I know there are tools which can check if derailleur is bent but I don't see point in forking out tbh. Or do you think I should ask bike shop to assess it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,230 ✭✭✭ironictoaster


    Just noticed my bike with tubeless tyres has a slow puncture. Pinhole near the rim. The tyre seems to be seated fine.

    Just wondering is there any temp fixes for this? Was hoping to go on a long cycle with the good weather tomorrow!


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Just noticed my bike with tubeless tyres has a slow puncture. Pinhole near the rim. The tyre seems to be seated fine.

    Just wondering is there any temp fixes for this? Was hoping to go on a long cycle with the good weather tomorrow!

    How slow? Goes down overnight or over a couple of hours?

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,272 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    dahat wrote: »
    Anyone had issues with an Ultegra rh hydraulic shifter?

    I’ve seen links to issues for LH 105 shifter but wondering if that solution would work? I’m just curious really as hike going to lbs for solution as it’s a new bike.

    I've had nothing but trouble with mine! The bleed screw (2mm hex) rounded out so I can't bleed it! Then I tried to adjust reach using this screw which caused the fluid to leak out when I turned the bike outside down. On the plus side the leak meant I could insert fluid from the caliper and blow the bubbles out through the leak but all in all it's a bit of a mess!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,230 ✭✭✭ironictoaster


    Brian? wrote: »
    How slow? Goes down overnight or over a couple of hours?

    Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,450 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!
    If you are going today, pump it up before you go on the ride, don't pump to too high a pressure though as sometimes the problem is tubeless sealant cannot cope with road pressures.

    Then I'd suggest patching the tire from the inside with an inner tube patch + glue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,450 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

    The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

    I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
    - Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
    - Cassette
    - Pedals / cleat connection
    - BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

    I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

    Any ideas?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

    The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

    I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
    - Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
    - Cassette
    - Pedals / cleat connection
    - BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

    I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

    Any ideas?

    I have a similar squeak on my single speed Mtb.
    It’s comes from the saddle itself (it’s an old Brooks unit).

    You might be right in focusing around the saddle/seatpost area.

    I’d grease the seatpost itself and make sure the seatpost clamp is mounted correctly.
    Maybe swap the saddle temporarily if you have a spare one lying around and that’ll tell you whether the saddle itself is at fault.
    You could also lightly grease the contact areas between seatpost and saddle.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Couple of hours over a few nights tbh. Pumped up before bed. Seems OK. Gonna chance it!

    Pump it up again so. It'll be grand.

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,233 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    I've got a fairly new Cube gravel bike (maybe used it for five 50-60k rides) with an annoying squeak that I am trying to locate.

    The squeak only happens when I am pedalling and seated.

    I'm thinking it could be (in this order):
    - Seatpost (alu seatpost in alu frame) - given it is completely silent while out of the saddle, this is most likely, but not sure what I can do about it? Bike has a strange seatpost clamp with two different hex bolts, not sure if I can grease somewhere?
    - Cassette
    - Pedals / cleat connection
    - BB (it is a pressfit, but the bike has never been used in bad weather so it would be a bad sign if it already started making noise)

    I'd take it back to the shop but covid restrictions make that challenging still.

    Any ideas?

    What cleats do you use? I had a creak issue that I found d was the black grip on the look cleats.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,450 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I have a similar squeak on my single speed Mtb.
    It’s comes from the saddle itself (it’s an old Brooks unit).

    You might be right in focusing around the saddle/seatpost area.

    I’d grease the seatpost itself and make sure the seatpost clamp is mounted correctly.
    Maybe swap the saddle temporarily if you have a spare one lying around and that’ll tell you whether the saddle itself is at fault.
    You could also lightly grease the contact areas between seatpost and saddle.
    Thanks - so I am ok to grease an alu seatpost in an alu frame?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,450 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    dahat wrote: »
    What cleats do you use? I had a creak issue that I found d was the black grip on the look cleats.
    Shimano MTB & the reason I had a thought it could be them is the metal on metal


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Thanks - so I am ok to grease an alu seatpost in an alu frame?

    It's not just ok, it's highly recommended

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Thanks - so I am ok to grease an alu seatpost in an alu frame?

    Yeah, I always have done anyway. A light coating will be fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Shimano MTB & the reason I had a thought it could be them is the metal on metal

    Unlikely, as long as pedals and cleats are mounted correctly. A spray of wd40 or GT85 on pedal/cleat never does any harm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 511 ✭✭✭gmacww


    Brian? wrote: »
    It's not just ok, it's highly recommended

    As above. If you think of areas on your bike where metal meets metal the seatpost seattube would be one of the more stressful areas as it’s taking the majority of your body weight. That stress can easily bond the metals together if they are not protected. A light coating of grease is essential in this area to keep that from happening.

    In fact once a year I remove the saddle post and all give it a full clean and apply a layer of grease. This help avoid the dreaded stuck seatpost.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Another source of noise can be the plastic cleats creaking against the sole of the shoe, if the bolts are not really tight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,450 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thank you all for the replies. Seatpost is greased and torqued exactly to spec. I will take it out tomorrow and see if that fixes it - if not cleats and pedals will be the next place to look


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,880 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    got new wheels, but lockrings are internally threaded as opposed to externally, so as ive broken a spoke on the old wheels they are a no go, so having pile of lockrings from cassetttes (well a pile of old cassettes actually i thought, wil these work ! they definitely do, although ill put the correct ones on as soon as i get the new rotors as they dont cover the serrations completely so i would guess they might need checking more frequently !

    (waits for people to say what an idiot i am for even thinking like this !)

    My weather

    https://www.ecowitt.net/home/share?authorize=96CT1F



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 870 ✭✭✭Maidhci


    What is the correct / best size inner gear cable for hybrid bike? There are two sizes available 1.2mm and 1.6mm, both of which are listed as being suitable for road and mountain bikes. Any particular brand? Thanks.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Maidhci wrote: »
    What is the correct / best size inner gear cable for hybrid bike? There are two sizes available 1.2mm and 1.6mm, both of which are listed as being suitable for road and mountain bikes. Any particular brand? Thanks.

    In 30 odd years of cycling, I can’t say this something that I’ve ever thought about.

    There are gear cables and brake cables. Do they even have brands? I just buy whatever is in my closest bike shop.

    I have to commend you on bamboozling me completely.

    Edit: did some googling. The 1.6mm are brake cables, the 1.2mm are gear cables. They’re not interchangeable, well I’ve seen them interchanged when they shouldn’t be.

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,571 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Brian? wrote: »
    In 30 odd years of cycling, I can’t say this something that I’ve ever thought about.

    There are gear cables and brake cables. Do they even have brands? I just buy whatever is in my closest bike shop.

    I have to commend you on bamboozling me completely.

    Edit: did some googling. The 1.6mm are brake cables, the 1.2mm are gear cables. They’re not interchangeable, well I’ve seen them interchanged when they shouldn’t be.

    I spent an hour trying to replace a shifter cable on my first road bike. First time using SRAM and integrated cables, I thought I was just having a hard time until I found out the shop gave me the wrong sized cable...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,444 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Maidhci wrote: »
    What is the correct / best size inner gear cable for hybrid bike? There are two sizes available 1.2mm and 1.6mm, both of which are listed as being suitable for road and mountain bikes. Any particular brand? Thanks.

    Some MTB inner brake cables are different to road bike cable. The cable end is round, whereas a road cable has a pear shaped end. (Some brands have the pear shaped end on one end of the cable and the round end at teh other end! you just cut off the end that's not needed)

    As for brands.. Jagwire are pretty good. Shimano inner cables are not bad either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,171 ✭✭✭Rechuchote


    Not sure where to put this question - if there's an actual correct thread, could I ask the modgods to move it, please, and sorry to trouble you?

    We've recently bought a Dutch bike on Adverts, and the axle broke after a few weeks. We (I use the executive 'we' here) took the hub apart and found that the Sturmey-Archer hub gear was also broken - one of the pawls is broken.

    We ('we') sent off for a new Sturmey-Archer hub set, plus axle and pawl in case the first one is reparable, and applied to Professor YouTube for a degree course in how to fix the gears.

    It turns out, in the course of this, that WD40 is not good, and in fact most oils and greases aren't good; the best thing is a heavy oil, especially an American something called Phil's Tenacious Oil. Would anyone know where to get this - or its equivalent - in Ireland? Apparently Phil's Tenacious Oil is a few dollars in America but a fistful of dollars in Europe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,171 ✭✭✭Rechuchote


    @magicbastarder I'm an idiot - just saw this thread, which is obviously where I should have posted this instead of wasting time with a new thread - could you do me the favour of moving it, please?

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058190346


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,377 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    from a quick google, people seem to suggest a general car engine oil. you'd pay about €25 for 5l in a motor factors, but if you rocked up to a garage and asked them for half a litre, i'd say they might not charge you more than a few bob.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,377 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    though a little more googling suggests sturmey archer recommends SAE30, which seems to be fairly bog standard oil used in lawnmower engines, e.g.

    https://mower.ie/product/briggs-stratton-engine-oil-sae30


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Some MTB inner brake cables are different to road bike cable. The cable end is round, whereas a road cable has a pear shaped end. (Some brands have the pear shaped end on one end of the cable and the round end at teh other end! you just cut off the end that's not needed)

    As for brands.. Jagwire are pretty good. Shimano inner cables are not bad either.

    Ah yeah, the wee bit at the end that sits in to the shifter can be different. Forgot about that.

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,171 ✭✭✭Rechuchote


    Thanks, MB. 'We' tells me that there are 2 kinds of Sturmey-Archer hub - one that you oil every week through a little hole; the other is a closed kind that's greased with a kind of viscous oil that's not as heavy as normal grease. This is the kind we have.


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