the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Type 17 · 23-05-2021 04:12PM

54and56 wrote: »

For once I've resisted the temptation to make things worse by applying brute force!!

Good idea - if you break it, it's your problem - let the LBS check it (and if they break it, Trek will replace the door under warranty).

g0g · 23-05-2021 07:07PM

Are 35 tyres likely to be fine for a wheel that had 32 on it? If yes, does having a 32 and 35 on different wheels potentially cause issues?

I have an Orbea Vector Drop commuter/gravel-type bike which has 32s and I ordered a new tyre and in error picked 35.

Should I get off my arse and return/exchange it or is the difference minor and won't matter?

Type 17 · 23-05-2021 07:14PM

No problem if one wheel has a different width than the other (unless the difference is massive, and this is not).

Also, with a gravel bike, there should be good clearance at the seat-stays and chain-stays on the frame and at the fork-crown, so it's unlikely you will run into trouble with just the next size up.

Pdoghue · 24-05-2021 03:27PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not sure about any websites but you shouldn't have too much trouble with compatability. Assuming a new fork comes with its own thru axle there won't be issues with the threads of the axle not screwing in. You'll just want to make sure the fork fits your frame/stem etc which is just a general thing.

Once the fork fits, the wheels will be 12mm, I haven't seen something that's only 15mm, but 12mm that can be adapted to QR/15mm (although to be fair, I've only had a bike with disc wheels for a month, I'm sure there's some obscure 15mm only options out there)

Rotor will either be 6 bolt or Centrelock, worst case scenario you'll need an adaptor or new rotor if it doesn't fit. AFS = Centrelock.

It's certainly messy, it doesn't help there's QR disc wheels AND thru axle disc wheels, on top of rim brake options...

Thanks. I think Shimano RS170 wheelset should work?

DaveyDave · 24-05-2021 03:33PM

Pdoghue wrote: »

Thanks. I think Shimano RS170 wheelset should work?

Should do, standard 12mm thru axles and Centrelock discs. Nothing unusual to worry about.

Pdoghue · 24-05-2021 03:47PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

Should do, standard 12mm thru axles and Centrelock discs. Nothing unusual to worry about.

Thank you.

IrishLad90 · 24-05-2021 07:44PM

When cycling in higher gear my pedal is letting out a lot of noise.
I must have put too much pressure on it during an ascent and want to know how I can remedy it...
can anyone help me out here?

cletus · 24-05-2021 07:49PM

What sort of pedal, and what sort of noise?

IrishLad90 · 24-05-2021 07:54PM

cletus wrote: »

What sort of pedal, and what sort of noise?

Vero FSA and an almost 'strained grind' sound .. Ive to presume its coming more from the crank area, Ive limited knowledge with regards to this issue and the components...
With low gears there is no noise at all

cletus · 24-05-2021 07:57PM

Is there noise with no weight on the bike? so if you pick up the rear wheel off the ground and turn the cranks

IrishLad90 · 24-05-2021 08:22PM

cletus wrote: »

Is there noise with no weight on the bike? so if you pick up the rear wheel off the ground and turn the cranks

Ive checked and am not hearing the noise or feeling any resistance in that higher gear, there is only so much pressure I can apply with my hands tho..

magicbastarder · 24-05-2021 08:56PM

you sure it's the pedal? is there any play in the crankset?

cletus · 24-05-2021 09:11PM

Yeah, I was going to say either crank or bottom bracket

IrishLad90 · 24-05-2021 09:24PM

The noise is more a loud Creaking when pressure is applied, it is mostly on the right side when starting or even the slightest incline but is fine on flat ground/decline..
I dont have the tools/knowledge to remove/adjust the crank...
There is no loose parts in the area. I just watched a YT tutorial and removing the crank and greasing looks like it would cover my issue But it still could be caused by a number of things and without the tools im very limited ATM

cletus · 24-05-2021 09:37PM

Traditionally, creaking sounds are put down to the bottom bracket, but honestly, without seeing it or hearing it, it's hard to pinpoint, and a lack of tools makes it harder to suggest things to try.

IrishLad90 · 24-05-2021 09:38PM

appreciate the help, Ive a bit more direction now in my next move

MangleBadger · 25-05-2021 03:02PM

Now this is going to be a stupid question...
Replacing the chainrings on my sora crankset. I somehow decided to start putting it back together without putting the 34t ring on. Now I cannot remove 3 of the bolts, the sleeve they tighten onto just keeps rotating with them. Have I completely ****ed it?

cletus · 25-05-2021 03:25PM

MangleBadger wrote: »

Now this is going to be a stupid question...
Replacing the chainrings on my sora crankset. I somehow decided to start putting it back together without putting the 34t ring on. Now I cannot remove 3 of the bolts, the sleeve they tighten onto just keeps rotating with them. Have I completely ****ed it?

Can you grip the sleeve with a pliers or similar

magicbastarder · 25-05-2021 03:29PM

are they keyed on the back to allow you to use a screwdriver to grab them? i may be thinking of the wrong bolts.

MangleBadger · 25-05-2021 03:30PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

are they keyed on the back to allow you to use a screwdriver to grab them? i may be thinking of the wrong bolts.

I cannot get to the back as there is a cover on the backside of the chainring

cletus · 25-05-2021 04:12PM

MangleBadger wrote: »

I cannot get to the back as there is a cover on the backside of the chainring

Can you take a photo

MangleBadger · 25-05-2021 05:59PM

Cut my losses and visited the new LBS in Dun Laoghaire, CycleHub. Been in there a couple of times now and they’ve been more than helpful.
He had to pry off the faceplate to get at the back of the bolts. But he got me sorted and my bike is back in one piece.
For a minute I was very scared I would have to try find a new crankset.

tdf7187 · 26-05-2021 09:19PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

General rule is after two or three chains if the chain had been replaced before it gets too worn. If the chain is badly worn it may be easiest to just replace both.

You can pick up chain wear checkers for under a tenner.

Was quoted approx €100 for replacement of cassette, rear derailleur and chain, does this strike people as reasonable?

Type 17 · 26-05-2021 09:22PM

Depends on the spec of the items - how many speed is the drivetrain, and what model of derailleur?

tdf7187 · 26-05-2021 09:27PM

Type 17 wrote: »

Depends on the spec of the items - how many speed is the drivetrain, and what model of derailleur?

7 speed. Derailleur is Shimano Tourney RD-TY300-SGS.

magicbastarder · 26-05-2021 10:51PM

why does the RD need replacement? jockey wheels i could understand, that'd be a tenner maybe.

nicksnikita · 27-05-2021 07:31AM

IrishLad90 wrote: »

appreciate the help, Ive a bit more direction now in my next move

I had some creaking recently on climbs...turned out it was the front wheel QR skewer making the noise. That’s worth checking.

I’ve also seen in the past where a noise like yours is caused by the chain rubbing on the front derailleur in the higher gears. Have a look at that also.

I’ve found in the past that noises like the one you describe are generally not rooted in the bottom bracket area and are sometimes a simple fix if they can be located...

Paddigol · 27-05-2021 01:35PM

Converted to tubeless on my CX bike last autumn, based on pretty much everyone saying how great a set up it is. I've had nothing but trouble with my rear wheel. Switched from Griffo CX tyre to Gravelkings a couple of weeks ago, and took bike out of shed this morning to find it completely deflated. Much like myself at this stage.

I don't do the fitting/ sealing myself, so at least I know it's not me. And it's been fitted/ resealed by three different shops/ mechanics so it's not the repeated mistake of one person. When fitted first it stays inflated for 24 hours before I ride it. Last spin was just work commute on roads/ cycle lanes so it can't be terrain. Shouldn't be the rims either (Mavic Allroad) as apart from the fact that they're supposedly tubeless ready, I've had zero issues with front wheel.

I'm close to giving up on it as its just not worth the hassle.

28-05-2021 03:16AM

Sorry I'm no expert on bikes but have you read much about the problem online?

This site might be helpful there is a few other topics on the same site about the same issue might be worth a read.

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/tubeless-tyres-constantly-deflating-any-solutions/

Hope you get the issue fixed soon.

nicksnikita · 28-05-2021 06:26AM

Paddigol wrote: »

Converted to tubeless on my CX bike last autumn, based on pretty much everyone saying how great a set up it is. I've had nothing but trouble with my rear wheel. Switched from Griffo CX tyre to Gravelkings a couple of weeks ago, and took bike out of shed this morning to find it completely deflated. Much like myself at this stage.

I don't do the fitting/ sealing myself, so at least I know it's not me. And it's been fitted/ resealed by three different shops/ mechanics so it's not the repeated mistake of one person. When fitted first it stays inflated for 24 hours before I ride it. Last spin was just work commute on roads/ cycle lanes so it can't be terrain. Shouldn't be the rims either (Mavic Allroad) as apart from the fact that they're supposedly tubeless ready, I've had zero issues with front wheel.

I'm close to giving up on it as its just not worth the hassle.

Check GP Lama on YouTube. He had - and solved - this issue recently.

But you’re right, it’s not worth the hassle imo

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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