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Tikka t1x .22lr ammo preferences??

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Comments

  • #32
    no_4
    Registered Users Posts: 361 ✭✭no_4


    selior & belliot have a 40grain HP that is quoted at 1033fps, ive a box here for a long time but have not tried em yet


  • #33
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Fitted a cheek raiser form CCR.UK
    Makes some drifferance to shooting the tikka . Much more comfortable.
    Also got one for the tikka t3x .


  • #34
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,454 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Feisar wrote: »
    I presume preferred torque would/could change from ammo type to ammo type?

    Possibly.

    I won't speculate because once i got my rifle(s) shooting how i wanted i left them be. By that i mean i used the same ammo, but even using different ammo i did not find any noticeable difference in performance, but all ammo was within an acceptable level of variance. IOW it was 109gr (.308cal) and then 220gr. They were usually 175 to 185gr.
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  • #35
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Got an hour on friday evening to shoot the tikka t1x ... my first mission was to shoot cci subsonic with and with out the moderator..
    The picture speaks for its self !!


  • #36
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Also took along the box of Rws and Eley just to see how they shot and sounded!!
    Have to say the Rws are "mouse fart" quiet and the Eley not bad either ...
    I think I prefer the Rws over the Eley ...
    I fired both with and with out mod and both seemed to shoot better with mod!!


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  • #37
    zeissman
    Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭zeissman


    john jameson wrote: »
    Also took along the box of Rws and Eley just to see how they shot and sounded!!
    Have to say the Rws are "mouse fart" quiet and the Eley not bad either ...
    I think I prefer the Rws over the Eley ...
    I fired both with and with out mod and both seemed to shoot better with mod!!

    Both of those rounds will be fine for what you want.
    I did find the eley more effective on live quarry but that won't matter if your head shooting them.
    The fact that the cci shot better without the mod ìs probably just down to barrel harmonics.


  • #38
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    The fact that the cci shot better without the mod ìs probably just down to barrel harmonics...

    Yep I was thinking the same ....the mod helps a little with the sub sonic loads ...
    Iv yet to play with torque settings I may squeeze a little more accuracy...
    At the end of the day its head shots on bunnies but still no harm to be as accurate as possible!


  • #39
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,454 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    What torque settings did you have for the above groups? Did you shoot any groups on the original settings?
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  • #40
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Cass wrote: »
    What torque settings did you have for the above groups? Did you shoot any groups on the original settings?

    Hi cass I didnt get around to playing with torque settings yet!!!
    The action screws are still on about 32.5 in/Lb each!!
    I'm sure I may squeeze a bit more accuracy from it yet!!


  • #41
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,454 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    I'd be curious to see if the groups improve or worsen if they were reset to the original factory settings.

    Have you checked the mod for "clipping". IOW is the bullet effecting harmonics or actually clipping the mod on the way out. If its clipping it could account for the group size but it would be so subtle as otherwise you'd have keyholing or worse.

    I had this with a 308 some time back. My solution was to measure the diameter of the "muzzle" of the suppressor then increase it by drilling it out by a mil or two. Solved the problem and groups tightened up immediately.

    It could be harmonics but no harm to check. The bullet was clipping the inside of the muzzle so there was no discernable marking on the outside of the muzzle of the mod. I only found it using my bore scope.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • #42
    cookimonster
    Registered Users Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭cookimonster


    A few things.....

    Your groups improved with the addition of a cheek riser. Play around with it hight and position wise. I had my group size go to sh1t when I went from a 40mm scope to a 56mmscope, scope height and poor cheek weld was the issue. Sorted it out a good cheek riser and a bit of testing.

    Magnification, I know some lads don't agree with this one, but try keeping your magnification at a lower setting, try 6 power. Higher magnification can increase errors in shooting.

    Lastly for consistency and repeatable testing try using shop bought targets or run something off the printer, plenty of downloadable bullseye style targets. I print of one inch grid tables, black on white with 1 inch squares filled in black. Another one I use and can be done with rules and markers is a capitol 'T' big enough to be easily seen at zero range but not too big as to block out your aiming point. Handy with plex / crosshair style reticle as you can use the lower vertical post to line up on the body of the 'T' and level horizontal lines across the shoulders of the 'T'. Use black on white or opposite as shapes and lettering in theses colours are better defined with no blurred edges at distance then those in different colours.


  • #43
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,454 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Great advice above .

    One other bit, and you may already be doing this judging by your groups. Don't change your point of aim regardless of point of impact. Once you have fired your first shot with whatever your point of aim was use the same point of aim for all shots. If the groups are high/low and right/left is doesn't matter for grouping purposes. You can fine tune your zero later or in the next group.

    I've seen lads constantly adjusting their point of aim while testing and the results are all over the place. There is a difference between precision and accuracy. Handy image that explains it:

    difference-accuracy-and-precision-solarimeter.gif
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • #44
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Cass wrote: »
    I'd be curious to see if the groups improve or worsen if they were reset to the original factory settings.

    Have you checked the mod for "clipping". IOW is the bullet effecting harmonics or actually clipping the mod on the way out. If its clipping it could account for the group size but it would be so subtle as otherwise you'd have keyholing or worse.

    I had this with a 308 some time back. My solution was to measure the diameter of the "muzzle" of the suppressor then increase it by drilling it out by a mil or two. Solved the problem and groups tightened up immediately.

    It could be harmonics but no harm to check. The bullet was clipping the inside of the muzzle so there was no discernable marking on the outside of the muzzle of the mod. I only found it using my bore scope.

    Hi cass .. the mod I bought was a used sonic! When I got it home with rifle I stripped it and washed it so i could inspect it ..there was one baffle that had a little damage so I failed the damage out with a chain saw file and filed the rest of the baffles aswell just to open them a little I was going to drill them out with a 7mm as a 6.5m about the current diameter but I decided to file for now !!
    I'm assuming it harmonics as the group tightens with subs !!


  • #45
    john jameson
    Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭john jameson


    Cass wrote: »
    Great advice above .

    One other bit, and you may already be doing this judging by your groups. Don't change your point of aim regardless of point of impact. Once you have fired your first shot with whatever your point of aim was use the same point of aim for all shots. If the groups are high/low and right/left is doesn't matter for grouping purposes. You can fine tune your zero later or in the next group.

    I've seen lads constantly adjusting their point of aim while testing and the results are all over the place. There is a difference between precision and accuracy. Handy image that explains it:

    difference-accuracy-and-precision-solarimeter.gif
    I definitely dont chase groups ...where ever they land so long as it's on paper it's fine.
    Iv actually dialed the scope to clear the point of aim .. iv I'm using a marker dot to aim at I may dial up 1mrad for a group with out mod and dial below the dot for a group with mod..
    I see lads shooting in to the middle of a hole cut out by bullets .... I'd prefer to have that there to aim at!!!


  • #46
    cookimonster
    Registered Users Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭cookimonster


    6034073

    That's a balistic table for my .22 Brno with LV either Winchester or Eley, there wasn't a hell of a difference in POI between the two (and mod on or off), this is approximate and only verified from shooting the distance.
    As you can see a 60 yard zero gave me a point and shoot for head shots out to 75 yards, any misjudged ranges just outside of that usually ended up with neck/high shoulder shots (absolutely lethal with LV ammo).
    The only time I dialed was for a bit of target shooting out to 100 yds. In the end I made up my own custom markers on the elevation turret more so for something to do or try than use in the field.


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