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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

24567…41

Comments

  • #32
    BigAl81
    Registered Users Posts: 1,115 ✭✭✭BigAl81


    liamog wrote: »
    The problems with splitting posts from a closed thread, should be sorted now

    Don't think we'll have any such problems with the 38 kWh thread ;)


  • #33
    Mickeroo
    Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,131 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Battery dead again, went out to plug the car in for the night and it flashed the hazards and opened out the mirrors but didn't actually unlock the doors. So it's sitting on the drive now with the hazards on for the night. Not arsed jumping it in the rain.


  • #34
    ELM327
    Registered Users Posts: 21,345 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    That Ioniq from Phil is a bargain not seen for some time.
    If anyone asks me for a suggestion for an EV that's where I'll send them. That's a 2.0 gen EV for 1.5 gen (leaf 30) money.


  • #35
    unkel
    Registered Users Posts: 64,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I actually secretly did some sums in my head, do I need a second EV? It's a tempting proposition :p


  • #36
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Would it be coincidence that the day after the nct my car throws a "check electrical system" warning?

    Disappeared next time I started the car, but I'd assume this is the 12V being 4 years old coming into play. Last thing I want is to visit kearys and be told I imagined it.


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  • #37
    Kramer
    Registered Users Posts: 3,224 ✭✭✭Kramer


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Would it be coincidence that the day after the nct my car throws a "check electrical system" warning?

    Hope they didn't over rev the engine during the emissions test :eek:. I've heard stories of how they blow up cars & destroy timing belts too :D.

    Probably the battery - gone cold enough again the last few days.


  • #38
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Kramer wrote: »
    Hope they didn't over rev the engine during the emissions test :eek:. I've heard stories of how they blow up cars & destroy timing belts too :D.

    Probably the battery - gone cold enough again the last few days.

    Funny it only alerted at the end of my within 5km drive. No sign of it since (5 drives later - today has been busy). If I thought there was any chance kearys would give me an electric courtesy car while they check it out I might book it in, but no doubt a) they'd have no electric courtesy car even though several sit in their forecourt, b) they'd have no courtesy car at all for another few weeks, c) they'd find absolutely nothing to report about the warning.


  • #39
    unkel
    Registered Users Posts: 64,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Next time check the voltage on the 12V lead acid. Probably ridiculously low like below 12.2V ( which is lower than a lead acid should ever be)


  • #40
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    unkel wrote: »
    Next time check the voltage on the 12V lead acid. Probably ridiculously low like below 12.2V ( which is lower than a lead acid should ever be)

    I'll have a look in the morning (romantic day with me Ioniq), though the car is in charge tonight so the 12v will get a top up there. Only a few km in the tank this evening.


  • #41
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Skipped that. Had to run to do the shop today, so said I'd grab some free juice at Lidl... Or so I thought. 3 flashing lights. Error while charging. Could be the 12v again, though it charged for a couple of hours ok on the home charger last night.

    Too wet to investigate. Cuppa tea for now


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  • #42
    Kramer
    Registered Users Posts: 3,224 ✭✭✭Kramer


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Too wet to investigate. Cuppa tea for now

    Time to get rid of it - all the signs are there - dissatisfied with your dealer, unreliable car - a scratch you need to itch................

    https://www.tesla.com/en_IE/inventory/new/m3?arrangeby=plh&zip=&range=0

    :P.


  • #43
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Kramer wrote: »
    Time to get rid of it - all the signs are there - dissatisfied with your dealer, unreliable car - a scratch you need to itch................

    https://www.tesla.com/en_IE/inventory/new/m3?arrangeby=plh&zip=&range=0

    :P.

    I'll just go check my money tree.

    The fault isn't bothering me. It's the 12v I'm sure. The dealer though, yeah, guaranteed disappointment when I visit them. Even now if my car won't charge, I know they'll do nothing to give me a replacement, only tell me to contact the AA to tow my car and then they'll miraculously have a replacement car for me.


  • #44
    NIMAN
    Registered Users Posts: 32,973 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    The Ioniq on Deal of the Week looks the part, except for the upholstery.
    Its a 'premium' spec yet has that ghastly fabric design.
    What spec of Ioniq do you have to buy to get leather?


  • #45
    emmet02
    Registered Users Posts: 24,816 ✭✭✭✭emmet02


    Premium SE


  • #46
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    unkel wrote: »
    Next time check the voltage on the 12V lead acid. Probably ridiculously low like below 12.2V ( which is lower than a lead acid should ever be)

    Checked it there after it sat up for a few hours. 11.8v. motorfactors gave me a new one (€84) and reading around 12.4v now. Old battery was reading 12.2v after the short drive there and back. I'll tip down to Lidl later and see can I get a successful handshake.


  • #47
    KCross
    Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Checked it there after it sat up for a few hours. 11.8v. motorfactors gave me a new one (€84) and reading around 12.4v now. Old battery was reading 12.2v after the short drive there and back. I'll tip down to Lidl later and see can I get a successful handshake.

    If you put in a new battery you should get it fully charged up from a mains charger as you will find yourself in trouble again in a few days, particularly if the car isnt driving much.


  • #48
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    KCross wrote: »
    If you put in a new battery you should get it fully charged up from a mains charger as you will find yourself in trouble again in a few days, particularly if the car isnt driving much.

    I'll be charging the car tonight, so the 12v should get a good charge from that


  • #49
    KCross
    Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    I'll be charging the car tonight, so the 12v should get a good charge from that

    One overnight charge may not be near enough.

    Do you have a trickle charger? I'd put it on that for 24hrs if you have.
    If not, then definitely keep an eye on it, particularly if its sat in your drive for a few days not moving.


  • #50
    k123456
    Registered Users Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭k123456


    I had an Alfa, battery was excellent after 14 years
    Ioniq, battery giving trouble after 2.5 years

    I would love to know the root cause of these battery issues

    Sub standard battery
    something draining the battery
    Battery not receiving adequate charge, while car is driven
    etc


  • #51
    KCross
    Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    k123456 wrote: »

    I would love to know the root cause....
    Sub standard battery
    something draining the battery
    Battery not receiving adequate charge, while car is driven
    etc

    Combination of those. Mainly not being charged enough.


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  • #52
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    KCross wrote: »
    One overnight charge may not be near enough.

    Do you have a trickle charger? I'd put it on that for 24hrs if you have.
    If not, then definitely keep an eye on it, particularly if its sat in your drive for a few days not moving.

    Might do that so. I've a trickle charger alright, and likely the car will just be sitting idle in the drive for the week.


  • #53
    unkel
    Registered Users Posts: 64,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Checked it there after it sat up for a few hours. 11.8v

    11.8V is ridiculously low for a lead acid, should never ever go that low. I'm frustrated and disappointed that Hyundai doesn't recognise this as a bug and apply a fix. They've had recalls where the charge port was replaced free of charge where I'd say 95% of owners never had a problem. This is just a software fix, just need to fix and upgrade the firmware

    Anyway, a brand new battery is not really a fix as KCross hinted. You will need to keep an eye out and check the voltage regularly


  • #54
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    unkel wrote: »
    11.8V is ridiculously low for a lead acid, should never ever go that low. I'm frustrated and disappointed that Hyundai doesn't recognise this as a bug and apply a fix. They've had recalls where the charge port was replaced free of charge where I'd say 95% of owners never had a problem. This is just a software fix, just need to fix and upgrade the firmware

    Anyway, a brand new battery is not really a fix as KCross hinted. You will need to keep an eye out and check the voltage regularly

    Ah lockdown isn't helping. Car just get a weekly run to the shops and that's it. Once creches open up again that'll be a daily drive, and once the country opens up again there'll be trips here and there. Ideally upgrading car this year too, though anything over €30k is met with disbelieve from my wife. I agree the ID4 is damn pricey, but I don't see the alternative. <---- Talk for another thread.


  • #55
    zg3409
    Registered Users Posts: 6,558 ✭✭✭zg3409


    k123456 wrote: »
    Sub standard battery
    something draining the battery
    Battery not receiving adequate charge, while car is driven
    etc

    Sub standard battery, well the problem is that cars are shipped by sea from south korea, so battery may have been draining for a month mid voyage. Also dealers don't typically drive nor charge the cars on forecourts, particularly if its secondhand sitting at a dealer.

    Something draining the battery, well if you sit in car with 'engine' off, but radio on, battery will drain in a few minutes, as the electronics draw a massive amount and when 'engine' is off the 12v is not topped up by main battery.

    Not getting adequate charge when driving, I don't think this is an issue as I drive 2 hours a day and I monitored the battery voltage while driving. Later software updates seemed to change the charging profile but that was not root cause.

    Root cause seems to be that 12v is only checked every 'x' hours when car is parked. Then car comes to life and tops it up. However between these checks the 12v can go low (particularly on very cold nights) and then you get issues like charge port not locking, main battery not charging, doors not unlocking.

    If they detected 12v less than say 13v and then charged it, it would never go low. However they seem to let 12v go down below 12.0v

    A new battery every 2 years helps prevent the issue. Plugging car in every night helps as 12v seems to be topped up when car starts to charge, it also tops it up when preheating in the morning, so that gives it 2 extra blasts per night. I also found using night rate timer in car is better than using timer in charger, and setting the charge port to lock at the start helps, as if it fails to lock later, the car won't charge and 12v won't charge.

    This still seems to be issue in kona and niro and the leaf has many similar reports.
    Tesla constantly charge the 12v but that causes increased phantom drain where the main battery drops a few % every day even when car is not driven, however very few 12v issues


  • #56
    Mickeroo
    Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,131 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    I've taken to starting the car for an hour during the day and leaving it "idling" on the driveway to keep the battery topped. The car is barely getting driven at the mo bar a 4km round trip to tesco on a sunday morning. Odd day like today where I'm in the office and it gets its 53km round trip the battery probably gets enough juice. If had kept up my pre christmas driving pattern after christmas I probably wouldn't have seen any issues for a while yet.


  • #57
    KCross
    Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Mickeroo wrote: »
    I've taken to starting the car for an hour during the day and leaving it "idling" on the driveway to keep the battery topped.

    That's very bad for the DPF! :pac:


  • #58
    Silent Running
    Registered Users Posts: 2,818 ✭✭✭Silent Running


    Watt you need to do when you get Ohm is to check your Volts.


  • #59
    AhHaor
    Registered Users Posts: 296 ✭✭AhHaor


    Any way to program the boot hold button on the key fob to do anything useful?


  • #60
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,363 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    AhHaor wrote: »
    Any way to program the boot hold button on the key fob to do anything useful?

    Most useless button. Being near the car allows you to open the boot. Pushing that button makes flip all difference. Be something if the boot was sprung to automatically lift open.


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  • #61
    Mickeroo
    Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,131 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    KCross wrote: »
    That's very bad for the DPF! :pac:

    :D
    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Most useless button. Being near the car allows you to open the boot. Pushing that button makes flip all difference. Be something if the boot was sprung to automatically lift open.

    I was convinced that was what it was supposed to do when I first got that car. What does it actually do? Cause I have yet to find and evidence of it serving any function whatsoever.


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