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Corner Shelves - DIY

  • 29-05-2003 3:46pm
    #1
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭


    I got this space in the box room at home with is dong nothing at the moment except just taking up space. So I was thinking about putting in some shelves along the same wall (plaster board) at the door and from the floor to the ceiling.

    Anyone know the best way to do this, as I'd like to have a clue before I start.


Comments

  • #2
    Victor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,580 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    I'd do something like the attached, either take the corner off the shelves (as in red - individual shelves on angle brackets) in case you poke yourself going out the door or alternatively buy a pre-made unit (or make one up yourself) with side walls (as in green).

    Make sure you fix to the timber studs, not the plaster board or you might have the whole thing come down on you.

    Make sure the angle are adequate for use. Books, etc. can be heavier than you might expect.

    Leave a gap between the door and the unit. Where is the light switch?


  • #3
    Victor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,580 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    ooppps


  • #4
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭PH01


    Originally posted by Victor
    Make sure you fix to the timber studs, not the plaster board or you might have the whole thing come down on you.

    Make sure the angle are adequate for use. Books, etc. can be heavier than you might expect.

    Leave a gap between the door and the unit. Where is the light switch?

    Going to be doing this thing myseft and building it from scratch.

    So what are timber studs? Are they the 15mm X 50mm timbers? So you put together a frame and hang the shelves upon it, so no weight is loaded upon the wall - is this right?

    Also, thank for the drawing.


  • #5
    Victor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,580 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Timber studs are the framing that make up the wall and which support the plaster board. Make sure your nails / screws (preferable) go into these or they will simply rip out of the plasterboard when you put weight on the shelves.


  • #6
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭PH01


    Hmmm... This is going to be more difficult than I thought...

    What's the best way to find the timber studs? And what if they're not where I want them. Going to have to change the design


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  • #7
    Victor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,580 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Originally posted by PH01
    Hmmm... This is going to be more difficult than I thought...

    What's the best way to find the timber studs? And what if they're not where I want them. Going to have to change the design
    You will tend (no guarantee) to find one at the door and one in the corner and one every 300-450mm in between at regular spacings. There will also be 2-3 horizontal rows of "noggins" in the height of the wall (again at regular spacings).

    Put you hands against the wall in several places and put your full weight on the plasterboard (or as much as you dare / is safe :eek:) to see if certain parts give way more than others.

    Based on your sketch (you didn't give dimensions), my guess is there would be one at the door, one at the corner and one at one third in from these points.

    Alternatively tap a thin nail through the plasterboard in several places (do this near - not at - the bottom, so it will be concealed by the shelves and use some paint filler the next time you are painting).


  • #8
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭PH01


    Another drawing -

    How about this for a plan...
    Ok, so I find the studs and screw in horizontal battons (see 'A')...
    ...the I attch to these the vertical battons 'B'.

    But how do I attach batton 'C'? Should I use horizontal battons coming out to the top and bottom to secure the frame?

    Or should I use a piece of MDF ot bridge the gap (see 'D' in the second attachment next post)


  • #9
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭PH01


    Or should I use a piece of MDF ot bridge the gap (see 'D' in the second attachment )


  • #10
    Borzoi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Borzoi


    Is the left hand side walll an external wall? I'm guessing it is as the stairs run along side. In which case the easiest method of support would be to fix battens to this wall where you want your shelves and use that piece of timber 'D' to support the opposite side, again using battens. I wouldn't recommend MDF for an upright support as it's a little bit too flexible.


  • #11
    PH01
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,120 ✭✭✭PH01


    Originally posted by Borzoi
    Is the left hand side walll an external wall? I'm guessing it is as the stairs run along side. In which case the easiest method of support would be to fix battens to this wall where you want your shelves and use that piece of timber 'D' to support the opposite side, again using battens. I wouldn't recommend MDF for an upright support as it's a little bit too flexible.

    It's an external wall alright, but it's finished with plasterboard.
    I've never used MDF before so I wouldn't know - but thanks for the tip


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