Questions: Painting/Painting supplies & sanding

chabsey

New house is going to be magnolia all over and I'm looking for the best place to get a decent amount of magnolia (the lighter shade, nothing too 'yellowish').

Also, what's the verdict on paint pads Vs paint brushes. The pads look nice in that they appear to use less paint,cover cleanly, splash less and are good for getting in corners. Question is though, if they're so much better than brushes why aren't more widely available. Leads me to believe they're not as great as they claim to be. Any opinions, brush vs pad?

Any suggestions on the cheapest place to get all the above, paint and painterly supplies etc. Dublin area is required.


And finally, sanding. I was going to sand the lower floor of the house and after having asked loads of people I know, they have all uniformly stated that it's not worth the effort/saving and that I should get a professional to do it. I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of the price of professional sanding service. I know it depends on floor area, but just a rought idea for two rooms about 10ft square each, and a small hall.



Thanks.

mad m

Fleetwood are very reasonable on Davitt road near Inchichore.If I was you I'd try and buy the new 10times stronger matt in Fleetwood,they are much cheaper than Dulux.Last time I bought some it worked out around €32 a gallon.But you can buy it in 10litres buckets(2 gallons) from they also.

They will make up any colour you want in any finish,like most places.As far as the advice on the pads,I've never used them since I served my time as a painter.So maybe thats answered your question.

rooferPete

Hi,

I think this is a good guide regarding paint pads,

Our local hardware has some in stock I saw them recently and asked if they worked because I have only seen them in diy trade shows before, his answer was he would not sell them to a customer but if someone was foolish enough to insist on buying them then he would think about offering a special deal on the small stock he has.

I think his price was €28.00 for the tub of Berger magnolia I was getting, I know my son painted his house with Fleetwood and spent €40.00 for the tub but it is a very very good paint.

Like mad m I would say the brush beats the pads, also good rollers and a sheet on the floor where you are painting.

Preparation is the key and try to get a good quality brand name unless you know the "Trade paints".

.

mad m

Just too add what I forgot to say about the 10times(washable)matt.This was and is mainly for bad walls,because its flat finish it wont show up imperfections on walls.But if your house is new and walls are plastered then by all means use whatever finish you want,Soft Sheen,and the OAPs favorite Vinyl Silk, these types of finishes are really for newly plastered walls.

But having said all that I have always used Soft Sheen in my house because of my kids and its easy to maintain to a degree.But lastyear I used 10times tougher matt paint in my bedroom and I will be using it in future.

Hope it turns out nice for you.

LegacyUser

mad m wrote:

Just too add what I forgot to say about the 10times(washable)matt.This was and is mainly for bad walls,because its flat finish it wont show up imperfections on walls.

Hi, very interested in finding out more about this paint above. Is it suitable for lining paper. I papered 2 strips of liining paper with B & Q 1000 lining paper and it left a couple of (possibly not tooooo noticeable) lines down the wall. At first I thought it was me, so I tried the second strip - same deal.

Off I went to Atlantic and bought some of their 1000 lining paper and this is a completely flawless finish. Just wondering if this 10 times washable matt could do the business on the B & Q stuff. I'd rather not steam it off. Its not bubbles its the opposite - sucky-in type marks (for want of better vocab ..)

B

mad m

@buddy,

Well when I was with a small time painter when I was young and foolish.The way he hung lining paper and to this day its the way I would do it is.When you are hanging lining paper the knack is to leave a millimetre gap(dont butt join edges) when its dry polyfill down the line to make it seamless.

As you know lining paper is used in two ways,first its hung vertically over fairly bad walls(but first wall should be prepared,e.g filled,polybonded etc)But I have used poly filler after lining paper as sometimes things can be missed.Then this is painted and yes 10times tougher paint is suitable for painting over lining paper.

And to finish off the other reason for lining is.It was hung horizontally,this was in preparation to hanging a desired wallpaper over onto it.It was hung horizontally because there was no chance the edges(seams) would meet.

Hope this helps

mad m

Sorry buddy,

didnt read the last bit of your post,Well if there is a couple of overlapping lines or just a line,try and give it a good sanding to remove it or run a window cleaners blade up it and try and remove it also if sanding doesnt work.

Then polyfill,the polyfiller will probably sink a little first time so wait till its dried then sand down and redo the filling and sand down again till you think its ok.You can fill over the sucky marks to acheive a flush finish.Then paint away

amerden

chabsey wrote:

Also, what's the verdict on paint pads Vs paint brushes. The pads look nice in that they appear to use less paint,cover cleanly, splash less and are good for getting in corners. Question is though, if they're so much better than brushes why aren't more widely available. Leads me to believe they're not as great as they claim to be. Any opinions, brush vs pad?

Used paint pads many years ago, stay away from them, they will drive you mad. Great if the surface your painting is smaller than the actual pad, but once its greater i.e. a wall, you will get a lot of lines in whatever direction you are using the pad.