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Cutting list for NEW ROOF for house

  • 02-02-2005 7:16pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 106 ✭✭


    This is a bit of a tall order.
    I am planning/costing for a new house which we hope to start building this summer. I have got one quote for materials from a local builders merchant which includes €5,000 for roofing timber, but does not list timbers used (dimensions etc.).

    I was hoping to get another quote, before going back to them to clarify their original quote.

    There is a large timber importer close to where I live (they supply the builders merchants and also will sell direct to the public), when I approached them about a quote they asked me to provide them with a cutting list.

    I was wondering if anyone who is experienced in the joinery or carpentry trade could do a quick estimate of a cutting list for a roof with the following dimensions

    The roof is a simple straight design with two gable ends.
    Length (of house) approx 15M
    Depth (of house) approx 9M
    Angle of roof 34 degrees
    Any help or advice appreciated.

    Goll


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    This is a bit of a tall order.
    I am planning/costing for a new house which we hope to start building this summer. I have got one quote for materials from a local builders merchant which includes €5,000 for roofing timber, but does not list timbers used (dimensions etc.).

    I was hoping to get another quote, before going back to them to clarify their original quote.

    There is a large timber importer close to where I live (they supply the builders merchants and also will sell direct to the public), when I approached them about a quote they asked me to provide them with a cutting list.

    I was wondering if anyone who is experienced in the joinery or carpentry trade could do a quick estimate of a cutting list for a roof with the following dimensions

    The roof is a simple straight design with two gable ends.
    Length (of house) approx 15M
    Depth (of house) approx 9M
    Angle of roof 34 degrees
    Any help or advice appreciated.

    Goll
    3 hours work there setting it out onto paper


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 106 ✭✭Goll Mac Morna


    No problem Carpenter, I realise it is a very tall order! I will get to work on it myself.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    1/2 hour on Autocad, full material lists.

    kadman :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 68 ✭✭YAPP


    Goll Mac Morna

    Let us know the basics and we can sort ye.

    Attic reqd, (floor joisting?)or regular ceiling joisting?
    rafter support? Midspan purlin/ridge beam with secondary tie/etc,.
    General centres? 400mm / 600mm ?
    FF LB walls if any, whats greatest span?
    Any ceiling or roof plane opes such as velux, chimneys, how many, what size?
    Size of over hang reqd at Barge?
    Size of over hang reqd at eaves?

    you may not have thought of these, but general planning drawings would probably show these.... Let us know and we'll sort ye!

    Yapp


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    The roof is a simple straight design with two gable ends.
    Length (of house) approx 15M
    Depth (of house) approx 9M
    Angle of roof 34 degrees
    Any help or advice appreciated.

    Goll

    Have you considered a quote for roof trusses.

    Given that your roof slope is only 34 degrees, I would assume there is no attic. If you do intend to have attic rooms, 34 degrees would be low in this instance, giving approximately only 1800mm flat ceiling surface, at 2400 ceiling height, so you might consider maybe raising this if possible.

    If it is only a normal bungalow roof arrangement, trusses might be cost effective here, as opposed to a cut roof. Of course if attic trusses were required these would be fairly costly. If you faxed your plan to an truss supplier, he would give you a quote fairly quickly, probably same day.

    kadman :)


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Try this little software programme, great for rafter details, should be some use in organising material lists.

    http://www.easyrafters.com/rafter.asp

    kadman :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 106 ✭✭Goll Mac Morna


    Thanks for all your suggestions and help. It is a two storey house so there is no need for rooms in the attic, although I would still like to be able to get around up there (for storage etc.)
    The reason for the 34 degrees (approx) roof is that the local planning authority have limited the ridge height to 8 metres.
    Thanks KADMAN for the easyrafters link, I'll give it a look.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Thanks for all your suggestions and help. It is a two storey house so there is no need for rooms in the attic, although I would still like to be able to get around up there (for storage etc.)
    The reason for the 34 degrees (approx) roof is that the local planning authority have limited the ridge height to 8 metres.
    Thanks KADMAN for the easyrafters link, I'll give it a look.

    Well if you need to get around up there, or maybe later on use it as a small study, make sure your ceiling joists there can accomodate being used for waliking around on, check timber sizes in span tables. Good planning now , will pay dividends in the future. Attic trusses might well be the best option to maximise the use of floor area in this low pitch.

    kadman :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi Goll,

    I would be inclined to agree with Kadman, truss systems are very cost effective and with a good team your roof should be standing and underleyed in a day.

    I know there will be finishing details but the house is ready for inside work to start in reasonable safety from the rain.

    I recommend using breather membranes like Tyvek or the my personal preferance Starex because they are rot proof and very strong, also they do not react to any metals if you have valley's formed with copper or lead.

    I would tell the truss manufacturer if you are using slates as the roof finish because they tend to pay a touch more attention to the rafters when slate is being used.

    Not that they have different standards :) but concrete tiles have more forgiveness for slight kicks in the rafters and they do require more strength because of the weight difference, so the more information they have the better they can design the truss to suit your home.


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