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Samsung Gen 6 Heat Pump settings

  • 27-08-2024 3:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 234 ✭✭


    Just got keys to an A2 rated new build with a Samsung Gen 6 / Joule heat pump. It's zoned per room with on/off Joule E91 thermostats and underfloor heating upstairs and downstairs. Noticed the flow temperatures seem to be set very high, the Water Law (Samsung's name for weather compensation) settings are set to have a max flow temp of 45C when the outside weather is 2C or below and a min flow temp of 35C when the outside temp is above 15C. The builder/developer told me the heat pump settings have been set to be at their most efficient and not to touch it, but from Samsung's limited and poor documentation these just seem like the default values, and are very high for underfloor heating (there's no rads), the HP will get the rooms up to target temp very quickly and cycle a lot.

    Looking at the energy monitor in the heat pump, its looks to have been using 6-12 Kwh a day over the last month which seems high for the summer? I assume I should set these values a fair bit lower, anyone know what would make sense? Was thinking 26C to 35C, and if in the winter it's struggling to get to the target temps to increase the higher flow temp a bit.

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Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    It does seem like they are the default settings.

    Also zoning everything is going against the more modern thinking also. But it is somewhat a tick box on the ber that there is zoning which can be detrimental to the most efficient way of running the heatpump.

    But does that use also include hot water? (It has also been chilly the last week or so.)

    Have a look at heat geek.

    Take a note of the initial settings. So you can always revert. Keep reducing until you get complaints! 😂

    @newhouse87 has been through this too!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,746 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yep. Dezone for a start, heat pump should not be needed for few months yet for space heating. Yep keep lowering flow temp until it no longer reaches desired indoor temperature.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    How did you dezone by the way, take off the valve heads, turn all thermostats connected to them valves to the minimum?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,746 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Took all actuator heads off and I have 1 stat that can be programmed I use to run the house. Other stats lowered to temp they will never come on at.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 234 ✭✭KingCong


    Thanks guys, I've been watching all the heat geek videos the last few days (wish we had an equivalent service to them in Ireland), had noticed alright that the zoning was the old way of designing these heating systems, funny as the developer kept on about the zoning per room as a great extra feature they'd added 🙈.

    @newhouse87 Dezoning sounds like the way to go, I've two manifolds like in the attached picture, one upstairs, one downstairs, so am I right in saying if I remove the white actuator heads, it should leave the zones open? Think there's two separate flows from the heat pump for upstairs and downstairs, so would I have to keep it as a 2 zone system, with on stat in each zone controlling?

    @graememk That did include the water heating, its set at a target of 48C and on Standard mode, which I think means when the water temp drops 5C below the target it'll bring it back to 48C. Not sure if this is most optimal, or should I schedule DHW to heat up at certain times instead (like in morning before we get up etc)? I'm guessing most of the high recent usage though is from builders/painters coming and going before the house was handed over with the front door left open a lot.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,746 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yep just screw off white heads and it means when call for heat flow will go through all open loops. Usually in upstairs heat rises so lot people neve have underfloor on. Doesn't make sense for heat pump to turn on and get up to temperature in 1 room then another room calls for heat and process has to start again, better to warm all rooms together using balancing on manifold. Your flow temps crazy high, in depths of winter last year my flow temp was 31 or less.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,630 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Id not worry too much about the hot water for now, the cyclinders now have very little loss, Maybe if your on some sort of Day/Night or smart plan id reconsider it to take advantage of the cheap rates. temperature is also fine.

    Do you have two pairs of manifolds? the little guages on the top one are flow meters. If you remove the white heads, it will dezone. but them themostats that they are connected to need to be turned down to a mininium otherwise they will call for heat but have no control. What thermostat would you pick to be the master?

    Possibly the wiring could be changed that the thermostats are used as a temperature limit rather than a target (keep valve heads on but remove the ability for them to call for heat. But with underfloor the responsiveness for everything is a lot slower, (if cold it takes a while to warm up, if warm takes a while to cool down!)

    I wouldnt go changing everything at once maybe a bit more controlled way, Initially possibly turn off weather compensation, and start as low of a flow temperature. You'll not really know until it gets cold how the house would behave and what it needs. Everybody is different, and it has to be tuned for the people living in the house.

    The default settings will work fine, but might cost on efficiency.

    consumption and efficiency are different things,, one without the other is fairly meaningless. is the efficiency at 2 or 4? at 10kWh of consumption, thats a difference of 20kWh of heat and 40kWh.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 165 ✭✭johndoe11


    Might be worth noting if you remove all the actuators and are using outside temperature compensation, you won't need any inside temperature control. As noted, not the best time of the year to trying to set up these systems, best to judge comfort at around zero or less. But drop flow temp to low 30s now. You should probably also have a look at the heating curve and see what the minimum outside temp is set to, if using outside temperature compensation.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 831 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    Does the thermometer on the outside unit being exposed to the sun have any bearing on weather compensation settings and flow temps?

    For example, in winter on a cold clear sunny day with the outside temperature being 2 degrees, the Samsung display panel on the hot water cylinder could display an outside temperature of 13 degrees.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 165 ✭✭johndoe11


    Yes it would, I would say it should be on the north side of your house or in some type of louvered box.



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