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Upgrade or repair Tractor

  • 06-09-2023 10:16am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49


    Hi Folks,

    I am looking for a bit of tractor advice out there... I am having an issue whereby my 1987 2WD drive Massey wont lift the silage bales made this year. Possibly there is an issue with the lift pump. Im wondering should I repair it which probably would cost somewhere between €1500 and 2K or maybe upgrade to a 4 WD. I like the idea of a 4WD but not sure what I could get at a reasonable price... What would people advise on type of 4WD tractor to purchase? I would need a minimum of 100 Horse Power. A loader would not be essential for me but would be nice to have... I am only a part time farmer so cant really justify giving huge money to upgrade as tractor really only used at the weekends!

    Thanks!



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,280 ✭✭✭twin_beacon


    I think the last sentence of your post probably answered your question! If your own tractor has been fairly reliable up to this point, my choice would be to repair it. What tractor do you have at the moment?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Again, quoting you last sentence, anything half decent is going to cost huge money. I'd say get someone to look at your own tractor and give you an idea of what it will cost to put right. Those older Masseys wouldn't be too costly to repair generally.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 SirustheVirus


    Its a MF 690. Does what I need just wont lift this years bales! The 4WD drive would be handy for the soft ground though but its hard to pick up a decent one at smallish money!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,327 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Why do you need at least 100hp on a new tractor? Are you planning on doing heavier work or just plan on burning more diesel?

    Your current tractor is only 80hp if it was up to the task before the hydraulics started acting up and you just want to add 4WD why not stick to a similar size tractor?

    If considering repairing the existing tractor how good or bad is its condition otherwise? Is it worth spending the money on?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 451 ✭✭Milton09


    Unusual for a tractor like that to not lift bales, have you checked filters, linkage adjustments etc. Might not be a big fix.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 937 ✭✭✭cap.in.hand.


    Lift the lift handle all the way up to see how the tractor reacts to constant pumping

    Post edited by cap.in.hand. on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,246 ✭✭✭Good loser


    Have you a set of weights for the front?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,373 ✭✭✭893bet


    This years bales wetter than normal? Some of mine are and my 390 struggled more. Oil on hyrsllics topped up to the max?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,146 ✭✭✭Hard Knocks


    If its lifting at the front weights are needed, 2/3 45kg weights would be enough. If it’s struggling lifting then it’s the hydraulic pump. I think the 690 should be able to lift 2 ton



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,765 ✭✭✭White Clover


    690 are a good reliable tractor. Rust on the cab was the only really weak point on them. If the cab is OK, I would definitely spend a few Euro to put it right. I actually saw a replacement cab on one last year and it looked very well. I'm sorry I didn't take a photo of it at the time.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 SirustheVirus


    yeah its in good enough order.. Small bit of rust on cab but nothing major... I keep it in shed all the time. I havent got anyone to check pump out yet but that is most likely my next step I think.... This years bales are heavier than last year as I kinda rushed it due to the bad weather...

    What would you guys recommend as a good 4WD... Im thinking Massey or New Holland but they not cheap!

    Thanks!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,495 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    The turn circle alone is enough for me to not want a 4WD, not to mention the opportunity for more mechanical problems at the front.

    But if you are adamant, I will take that 690 off you! 😉



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,158 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    Theres a wire gauze filter on the left rear chassis. 3 x studs holding the cover up to the chassis. If this is blocked or needs a clean it will affect lifting performance. Easy to access and clean with diesel and a paint brush and worth trying yourself first.

    Only difficulty is that all the oil at the back end will spill out when you open it, so you need to drain the oil from the backend first. From memeory there is over 25l of oil in the back end so you will need 2 drums. You could re-use the oil if you collect it, assuming it's clean.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,495 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    Not sure if the 690 is different but that gauze is on the right hand side (facing forward) on the 390 and only 10L of oil needs to be drained.

    Also worth just checking the linkages from the control knob as someone mentioned above. That takes a lot of abuse over the years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,327 ✭✭✭emaherx


    There is up to 3 filters on a 390, one underneath same as the 690, one on the right suction side of tandem pump and a spin on filter.

    Only the one on a 690 as main pump and aux pump (if fitted) are both in the backend.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,327 ✭✭✭emaherx


    What's your budget?

    Buying another similar era machine will likely end in requiring the same repair anyway, almost any tractor that age will need a pump overhaul if not already done.

    There is a lot more decent makes out there than MF/NH, I sold 2 old MF's last year and bought a much more modern 4WD McCormick CX95 (still a 17 year old tractor) and delighted with it. Features like power shuttle, power shift, electronic hitch and self leveling loader with joystick make it a much nicer machine to operate. It's a 90hp tractor and does all I need which includes baling/mowing/hauling/slurry etc. I baled 800+ bales this year with no major issues. It cost about 24K but selling the 2 old tractors made up a lot of that.

    I wouldn't be too bothered by the brand of the tractor, but look at the specs of the machine and what you need, I was somewhat limited in what I could look at as I needed a low profile cab. The CX95 is slightly lower hp than my old MF 390T and 698T but has a higher lift capacity, is heavier so more stable with loader work and has a better turning circle (old tractors were both 4WD, 698T had the worst turning circle).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 650 ✭✭✭Silverdream


    Not going down the brand route, as emaherx say look at the spec. Also look at the condition and price. The old reliables like the mf 390 or Fiat 110-90 are just stupid money and cannot be justified. I've seen similar aged Renault tractors in great nick for a fraction of the price of those.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,826 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    Could just be low in oil. Rule out the simple things first. Parts for those yokes are easily gotten and relatively inexpensive and you could replace them yourself if anyway handy


    Disclaimer would be that I have no direct experience personally with 500 series.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 SirustheVirus


    Hi Folks,

    The budget would probably be about 12 to 15K with the trade in if I was to go that route. I was looking at a few of the older Deutz models (1990 to 1995) the weekend and they are coming in around 15-16K straight. However they are only a few years younger than what I have albeit they are a 4WD but have greater lifting capactity and are bit stronger in Horse Power. They do look to be good machines and the "experts" are saying the older models of Deutz are bullet proof as there is nothing much to go wrong with them but keep away from the newer models ! What are your thoughts on those models (Deutz DX4.71, DX 4.51, )

    I will get filter and pump checked over the next week or so I think and go from there then!

    Thanks for all the feedback!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,765 ✭✭✭White Clover


    I would know very little about Deutz. Always heard that they were good apart from the brakes on some which were outboard disc type as far as I know.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    running a cx105 for last 9 years . trouble free enough in fairness has done lots of heavy work. it has the electric shuttle which is great for loader work and wrapping



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 SirustheVirus


    Does anyone have any experience of the SAME Explorer 90 tractors. I'm looking at a 1994 model and it seems to be reasonably enough priced but there are not too many of them around my area so not too sure about them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,593 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Have an early version of the 90 Explorer, still a Explorer 2 though so has electric splitter, electric 4wd, shuttle (side stick), 40kph. Can be rust around the bottom of door frames and mudguards. Gearbox could be a bit on the agricultural side, although the Silver 100-4 was a lot worse.

    If they had a loader the front rims can be prone to cracking, so check them. Air cooled, so make sure the cooler is clean. Keep the belts in good condition as if one lets go it can knock out the other - alternator belt snapped on ours and took out the fan belt with it - luckily we noticed before any overheating was done. Also, check the electrics for signs of heating on the wiring - just make sure all the electrics (lights etc, 4wd engagement, PTO, diff lock) work.

    They were very popular as stockman or loader tractors.


    Found this when checking something on them:

    Check the fusebox for signs of melting and also the wiring from the battery to the starter and to the ignition switch and fusebox for signs of chaffing or heat. Not a serious issue if caught in time.

    Check that the synchromesh, splitter and shuttle all work as they should and that the clutch doesn't slip. That the front axle has been greased and that there is no play in the pivot bearings when you lift the front off the ground with the loader. That the PTO works and, as mentioned above, that the front wheel centres and rims aren't cracked. If they have been reinforced, fair enough.

    It is an air cooled engine and high revving but very peppy and economical with it. A generally excellent engine but the gear selection always feels rubbery and vague for some reason. You get used to that. It has brakes in the front axle and if not recently done I would change the oil in all three front axle reservoirs as well as oil and filters in the engine and gearbox. Beware that if you specify a 'full service' as part of the deal, hardly any dealer will change the gearbox or front axle oil.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭bt12


    Had same 80explorer explorer 11 for years great tractor just check for rust and get mechanic to check out gearbox would go for one again no problem



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 49 SirustheVirus


    Thanks Folks... From what I can see they are on the more reasonable price range for the 4WD options.... I guess the key is to get a good one !



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