Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Remote Fire Valve brings the system down

  • 18-12-2022 11:41pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,122 ✭✭✭


    Over- night temps went down to -8 C last week on Wednesday for the 1st time in many years. Brrr!

    Next day, heating was left on while I had to leave for the day. I came back to a cold house. The heating wouldn't start. Over the next few days, repeated fault - finding efforts finally found me at the root cause:

    The remote fire valve, installed perhaps 20-30 years ago, was not allowing fuel through. No fuel at the burner...nothing... but that thing was triggered.

    I went to reset it, but it was totally seized. Not a budge... And, finally, my 'tapping' efforts to seat the manual 'reset' valve ended in a broken reset valve stem.

    So, now for replacement, and resolving the major issue: How do you replace the outside fire valve mechanism while the temperatue sensor is still in the boiler house 5 metres away?

    There's a challenge for the experts among you...



Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Where's the challenge? You need to remove the valve on the oil line and the capillary tube and phial where it goes through the wall.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    no challenge get a new 6mtr firevalve

    you may have to drill a new hole for the probe as it was quite common to fit oil supply and fv through the same hole

    make sure the fv is fitted the correct way around as in the reset should be at the bottom

    theres a good chance you had water in yours and then it froze if fitted incorrectly



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,122 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    So, everything has to be removed back to the burner and a new tube way installed?

    That is quite a job. The ingress to the house is behind the kitchen base units. The flow pipe is under the floor, and its assumed that the capillary pipe from the valve to the burner is also under the floor. This burner is in an oil-fired Stanley Super range in the middle of a tiled kitchen, and all fuel etc is under the tiled floor..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,122 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Big challenge!

    A lorra, lorra cutting and drilling etc.

    Why can't one replace the fire-valve and retain the existing capillary tube housing?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    you only need to get the capillary in you will not be interfering with the oil supply

    the capillary can be run above ground once inside

    might be no harm to run it through something for a bit of protection

    without seeing your set up its hard to say any more



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,122 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Thanks, jimf...

    I understand that solution. I suppose I'm looking for a 'more elegant' solution that avoids my having to remove kitchen base units and tiled floors that were installed after the oil fired cooker was installed.

    I've removed the housing to which the capillary is connected from the failed valve, and preserved that capillary connection back to the burner. Ideally, I'd want to be able to connect that capillary housing to a new or repaired valve, to avoid a big job.

    That was why I was marking it as a challenge.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    you cant connect the old capillary

    it has to be a new valve



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,122 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Thanks. I get that position.

    However, I'm not buying it! And that's not popping at anyone.. That's just the challenge!

    It makes no sense to me that, every time a remote receiver fails, the sender sensor must also be replaced.

    This is simply not practical where there may be multiple structures such as walls, floors etc. between the sending sensor and the receiving activator.

    I can understand the 'straight-through' potential in a 'new-build', but ongoing maintenance & repair must surely facilitate replacement of EITHER sender or activating unit, without lads having to drill through metres of floors and/or walls just to install a new capillary route.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    i can feel your frustation

    its just when fitted first day they are thrown in with no provision for the day they need replacing



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭monseiur


    No wishing to hi jack OP thread but to save opening a new one can I ask a quick question re fire valves My uncle has one of those Firebird indoor oil boilers fitted in a utility room in his house, it's there for over 25 years. There is no fire valve fitted, should there be and is it possible to retro fit one ? Thanks.



  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    It's VERY rare not to see some type fitted.

    Yes they can be retro fitted.

    Post a pic of the oil supply to the burner.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    yes 1 can be fitted once you have access to the oil line

    ideally they should be fitted externally but can be fitted internally



Advertisement