Boiler keeps coming on

good one

Hi All,

Just looking for some advise while waiting on a plumber to come......it may be some time.......it's only been 7 days....

Last week we noticed a "TCP Antiseptic" smell from the airing cupboard which has the hot water tank etc in it. Investigated and didn't notice anything unusual, carried on as usual.

Next day noticed heating controls not working (Drayton Wiser)and after some checking copped fuse tripped on switch board.

Did some further investigating and discovered motorised valve with burn marks on it. Lucky for us not near any clothes or house may have gone up in flames.

Disconnected the valve wiring after putting labels on the wires and bought a new motorised valve and reconnected wiring as per the labels.

I could only get the valve on to the pipework by turning the motorised valve opposite to the resting position ( if that makes sense, the motor casing is upside down, in the always open position?, cannot get it on any other way )

Now the boiler appears to be calling for hot water all the time. Checked the heating controls including all schedules and even when everything is off, heating/hotwater, the boiler keeps kicking in to heat water.

Have resorted to switching off at the fuse board, kero too expensive to just leave it run.

Any ideas?

Plumber has to come anyways as other motorised valve has decided to start leaking when I took it for to determine how to put the new one on.

TIA

youtheman

Normally with zone valves the ONLY thing that tells your boiler to fire if any limit switch on a zone valve detects that a is in the open position. Maybe when you reversed the orientation of the valve the limit switch thinks the valve is open when it is actually closed (and vise versa). So to prove this logic turn everything back as normally but make sure your controller has the hot water turned 'off'. If the boiler fires then use the lever in the cylinder zone valve to open it. If this turns your boiler off then you know that the orientation of the actuator is the problem.

Lenar3556

Most likely, either the new motorised valve is in the manual open position - check lever on side. or you have mixed up the connections when fitting the new valve.

Is the valve working - I.e when the relevant stat/switch calls for heat does it open and close when call is removed?

good one

Thanks for the suggestions...

I though it would be a straight swap of the motorised valve....it's the only thing that has changed..

Plumber has to come anyways to look at the leak in the valves..

John.G

Was the whole valve you replaced or just the actuator?.

good one

I just replaces the actuator.

Plumber called.

Both valve's need replacing as they are drip leaking.

Have to monitor if boiler is still kicking in even though it's not called for..

Could be an issue with the controller.