Honda Accord Clutch Problem

Peter256

I have purchased a Honda Accord 2013 private sale only a week ago. The car seemed to be running perfect but the last few days I noticed an issue with the clutch that I hadn't noticed before. Sometimes when taking off the bite is high and today when i put it into second the pedel also got stuck and I had to lift it back with my hand. When the car gets moving the clutch seems to work fine changing the gears as normal.

I read online some people saying the sticking pedal problem could point towards a problem with the clutch master cylinder. But with the take off bite been occasionally high I am fearing it could be the total clutch needing replacement.

I was wondering does anyone know if my problem would involve getting a new clutch or just a worn part like a cylinder?

Hellrazer

The pedal sticking sounds like one of the cylinders alright and the high biting point sounds like the clutch is worn.

I would just bite the bullet and replace the lot - both cylinders and a complete clutch kit. Inspect the flywheel whiles its out and if theres any play in it replace that aswell.

Budget for around 2000 - 2500 for everything as I think the cylinders are Honda dealer only ( from memory one of them definitely is)

Peter256

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119723800#Comment_119723800

I noticed that the problem I mentioned only happens if sitting at traffic lights or a junction with foot on clutch in 1st gear for some time. If I put it in neutral while waiting then I don't have the problem when I put it in 1st and take off with the clutch bite been normal and no sticking pedal then.

I will get it checked out with a mechanic this week. I am not sure if it will nessesary for a complete clutch and flywheel replacement. There isn't any signs of the clutch slipping.

cornholio509

Dual mass flywhell would be my guess .I have a hyundai sonata that had that exact same issue . I thought it was the clucth so i bought the full kit . My dual mass flywheel was on the way out . Now its still possible you have other issues like seals in the slave or master cylinder failing , or a vacum leak . That said i cant inspect the car and see firsthand whats happening from my chair . SO DO bring it to a garage and get it chercked out . I When was the clutch done last and was the flywheel changed out ?

theteal

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119723875#Comment_119723875

How's your clutch fluid level?

The wife's 2010 CRV had what we'll call the occasional floppy pedal. We could tell very quickly there was a fluid leak and a quick finger of the rubber seal on the slave cylinder identified the culprit. I swapped myself with a generic - there are a few slightly different shapes, just to be aware.

tabby aspreme

One check for dmf wear is to listen for a rattle when the car is ticking over in neutral, if it stops when you press the clutch, the dmf is on the way out

Peter256

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119728727#Comment_119728727

I haven't noticed the issue this week but I know how to avoid it. The issue only happens when waiting at a junction or traffic lights and I keep my foot on the clutch ready to take off. If I put the car into neutral and take foot of clutch I don't have the problem when I take off. Normally in all other cars I owned if waiting at lights or junction I would keep my foot on clutch and never had this problem before in other cars that I owned.

I did come across a UK Honda forum online where a guy had similar problem and ended up changing the whole clutch kit in the end after changing the Master Cylinder to no avail. Other people on the forum with similar also said that they changed the master cylinder and the problem didn't go away. Nobody seemed to know am clear exact fix for the problem appart from changing the clutch kit. It seem that it's a issue with some Accords.

I will get it checked by garage tomorrow but the car has been driving fine the last few days with no problems with clutch but probably because I haven't been keeping my foot on pedel waiting at junctions.

Hellrazer

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119731420#Comment_119731420

Id still say its a full replacement. Both cylinders and a clutch kit and flywheel if its worn when you get in there.

A clutch slipping isnt always a sign of it being worn out. A high biting point is also a sign of a worn clutch. The pedal getting stuck is 100% a hydraulic issue - one of the cylinders if failing.

Peter256

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119735678#Comment_119735678

I understand what you are saying but the clutch has been fine this week. If I am waiting in traffic all I have to do is not leave it in gear with foot on clutch, and there is no problems then with stuck pedal or bite point then when taking off. I left it with mechanic today to check clutch so it will be interesting to see what he says but I think there could be a lot life in this clutch yet. And unless it starts to slip or totally fails l am not going to shed out 2 or 2.5k for a complete clutch Job when I only purchased the car a week and half ago for 8.25k.

Hellrazer

I get you. But I have a lot of experience with Hondas and have helped a lot of users out here in the past. Accords are known for clutch issues when they get to a certain mileage and Im just trying to advise you on what I see on them.

Whether you can make it not happen isnt the issue. Theres something wrong with the clutch system on the car and from experience the high biting point, and pedal sticking is usually resolved by replacing the cylinders and clutch kit. And it more than likely will let you down at some stage.

Also you did well getting a 2013 Accord for 8k - Im starting to wonder did the seller know the clutch was on the way out and price it accordingly. They usually go privately for 10k plus and usually closer to 11.5k.

Peter256

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119735795#Comment_119735795

I am not sure, after buying it I drove it home 2.5 hour drive and never noticed any clutch problems everything seemed tight. When I picked the car up the seller did say that he only realised during that week that he was selling the car maybe too cheap, he said someone said it to him that he would get more for it and that they were online for over 10k. But he said that once I had gave him a deposit the week before, he wasn't going to go back on the price it was advertised we agreed. I did have to change 3 tyres on it last weekend though that had some uneven wear that I never noticed when buying it but I wouldn't mind that so much. It seems a tight well minded car though with 168k miles. Its GT model originally was English reg up to 2017 and the service book has full service history and had a new DPF fitted in 2020 all work done with Honda dealers. Hopefully the mechanic will give the clutch a good inspection but if he doesn't notice the problem while driving it he will probably only give a fluid flush or maybe replace a Cylinder I am guessing. I will know more tomorrow evening when I call them. If it takes a full clutch Job then so be it because it's a good solid car and I don't think it will give much other problem's hopefully.

Hellrazer

Honestly after getting at that price if it does need a clutch its still really good value.

My next cars a Jap Import Hybrid Accord just because Accords are in my opinion hondas best model!!!

And 215HP is just going to be fun.

mk7r

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119735732#Comment_119735732

There is no real way for a mechanic to check a clutch though without removing it.

At your mileage and considering the issues you are having I'd just replace it for peace of mind, the problem will only get worse as time goes on

martyc5674

Is the slave outside the gearbox on this?— from a comment above it sounds like it is. If so— run the car, have someone keep the foot on the clutch and see if whatever lever/mechanism between slave and gearbox starts to drift over time. If the clutch is working fine most of the time and behaves like you say it is definitely hydraulic and I’d be trying not to replace clutch, however if your slave is in the gearbox and it needs replacing I’d be replacing the clutch while I’m there.

Marty.

cornholio509

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119731420#Comment_119731420

Again i am almost certain its a flywheel issue . I take it the car is a 2.2 deisel accord . If you take that to a garage they will tell you its more than likely a fly wheel . Unfortunately they dual mass flywhell is expensive for them and its a common problem on the accords . Hyundai santefe and sonata have the same issue . WHile you can avoid it for now there will come a time when you have to pump the pedal just to change gear . Its propably in the early stages of failure and its only a matter of time .

Look if you think i or anyone else is wrong please just ring a honda dealership and ask for a tech . tell them what you told us here . They will tell you whats srong faster than us armchair mechanics .

You said you got it at a bargain as a private sale . Think about it . the last owner probably knew the dual mass fly wheel was on the way out . Its in around a €1000 for it give or take 200 if you can get one online . Most mechanics would insist on doing the clutch and release bearing aswell . Another €330 and thats before labour . Probably got a bad deal for it on a trade in because of that and decided to sell it private .

greasepalm

Many cars use plastic/carbon master cylinders on the clutch pedal and seals are known to swell and pedal not return up to correct position.

Also check carpet is not getting fouled in using loads of mats.

Stop putting your foot on clutch at traffic lights and use handbrake to hold you

Jap cars have metal clutch release bearings but try doing that on french cars and plastic bearings with last no time.

I would only replace the clutch when i hear engine revs over forward motion as you know its gearbox out and whatever needs to be changed done