Stove Screw removal

Hedgecutter

I have to replace a plate at the back of my stove. Its held in by four screws. One is moving and the rest are tight. Any tips on how to remove them?

Kencollins

I have had good success with an impact driver and a hammer:

https://www.halfords.ie/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers-and-hex-keys/halfords-advanced--impact-driver-and-bits-178172.html

The Continental Op

I'd be very careful hitting cast iron with anything, it can unexpectedly shatter. A hand impact driver is a useful tool in this case but make sure there is plenty of support behind the panel whey using an impact tool.

I've rebuilt a few stoves and our cooker and have found its often just simpler to drill them out and if necessary retap the thread.

However probably worth soaking in penetrating oil over night and then applying a bit of heat with a plumbers torch but thats not guaranteed to work.

Might help to know the type of bolts or even the make of stove. Stanley for example have plenty of tolerance on the screws and use screws that aren't particularly hard and easy to drill out.

The Reader

I had the same problem with a plate on my solid fuel cooker I got my drill and steel bit and simply drilled it out. Worked for me.

Field east

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119022386#Comment_119022386

I have been there. I soaked it over a few days with penetrating oil eg WD 40. I then , using a steel nail I firmly tapped the screw in an anti-clockwise direction. Position the nail tip as close possible to the outside of the screw. The screw is probable of soft metal so it should be possible to create an indent in the screw head for the nail to get a grip. Since you are not hammering the metal head on but at an angle you are less likely to crack the metal . But be careful anyway. ‘Gentle’ but firm hammering/tapping is the order of the day

monseiur

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119022386#Comment_119022386

Hi Continental Op

Not wishing to hi jack this thread but can I ask a quick question - you mentioned that you rebuilt a few stoves I have a Stanley 9 stove which I hope to rebuild in situ as it's in a deep alcove and difficult to move. Where could I source parts for this stove ? I tried Stanley but they no longer stock them. A company in Tipperary supply reconditioned Stanley stoves but don't sell parts and won't divulge where they source them.

Thanks.

The Continental Op

The last cooker that Stanley made was the Erigal. Get the parts list off the site and take a look and see if they are the same as any that you want. Stanley didn't ever do much new design work and seemed to reuse a lot of the old ones. OK just tried that and their website no longer has the older parts list.

I know about 10 years ago Waterford Stanley dumped loads of old spares when they moved out of Bilberry. The spares they kept eventually ended up somewhere in Ireland and many could be ordered. Then the company (name) moved to the UK and I think they might have dumped even more spares. I heard the spares were staying in Ireland?

I just go through my local builders merchants who until 2 years ago at least could get most of the Erigal spares.

I'm not sure on the No. 9 as I think it gets mixed up with the No. 8 which is part for part almost identical to the Erigal.

Some firebricks can be got from http://www.dineensales.com/ as can a few of the cast iron parts and some boilers. Boilers can also be made to order but don't currently have a link. Don't think Stanley ever made their own they just got the cheapest ones that could be made up for them.

Hedgecutter

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119022386#Comment_119022386

Stovax stocken 7. Bolts are M6 x 40 CSK head Think i ll drill a small access hole above the screw and spray in oil and hopefully it will work its way along the thread.

The Continental Op

Ahh! You said screws earlier :-) But looking up the pdf I can see what you mean.

I'm cheating here just got the PDF manual https://www.stovax.com/download/Technical%20Documents/1.%20Stoves/Traditional/Wood%20&%20Multi-fuel/Stockton/Stockton%20Installation%20&%20User%20Instructions.pdf and interestingly most of the M6 machine screws (that's what I'd call them) have a locking bolt on the back. If yours has locking bolts perhaps grinding them off first would be the best way to start? But you can see if a spanner on the inside helps. If you don't want to dismantle too much I'd go as far as cutting a ring spanner down to size (if necessary) so it can go in through the flue.

Does the one thats moving actually come out? If it just goes round and round then that is sort of good as it means the main body of the stove probably doesn't have any tapped threads and relies on machine screws and bolts.

I'm guessing you want to move the flue outlet around? Be very careful on a used stove in that area as thats were it gets very hot and the cast iron becomes easy to damage.

It would be good design to have nuts and bolts in those locations because tapping the main body for the bolts like Stanley does means you can end up destroying the stove taking the bolts out.

The Continental Op

I'm guessing this is where we are at?

If a spanner won't do it I wouldn't think twice about grinding them off on the inside where no one will see what you have done.

I'd then replace them with Stainless Steel nuts and bolts, not that expensive in a lot of builders merchants.

Hedgecutter

Its

fire.JPG

Its the cleanburn chamber at the back of the stove that needs replacing. Number 11

The Continental Op

I just typed a load of rubbish explaining how to do it but then I realised it doesn't matter just grind the heads off as you will be replacing the part that the threads go into. Either that or use a socket set and apply as much torque as needed until they come out or just snap. Try mole grips if the heads get rounded. If you have set screws with no head then drill into the counter sunk part until the head is gone. If they are allen key type set screws even better as you have a good center to start off drilling.

What a load of bollox :-( Sorry just realised the screws don't go in from the back and screw into the main body.

Can you see the ends of the threads of the bolts on the back of the main body or do they go into blind holes?

Looks about the most awkward bolts to get out of the whole unit.

2nd Edit - Do those bolts go in from the back of the stove or the inside? If the inside - awkward but should be soft enough from the fire to drill out and if from the back then as I initially said just grind them off.

Hedgecutter

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119023708#Comment_119023708

Cant see jack only the head of the screw. one turned easy enough. Going to drill a small hole a few mm over the head of the screw on the plate its self and drop some oil in, see if the rest loosen.

The Continental Op

If the area is hidden and can't damage paint (it will if given the chance) brake fluid makes a reasonable penetrating oil.

If you can't see them does that mean they go in from the back of the main body?