Landcruiser corrosion. Advice needed.

irishguy19772

Bought a 05 landcruiser privately.

Thought chassis was fine but my mechanic has found serious corrosion near the front. Rest of it is fine.

He advised to run through doe and see what they say

Is this damage significant?

I know it's my own issue for buying privately and not getting checked thoroughly. Valuable lesson learned.

listermint

There's a heap load of caked in dirt on that so it's difficult to give opinion on it . You should clean it up first with a pressure washer and see what youre left with.

The DOE will want the surface a bit cleaner to inspect anyway. It looks like a possible fail as is.

wrangler

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058215689/landcruiser-corrosion-advice-needed

I had to repair and underseal my hilux, The guys did a good job on it but of course time will tell whether the products are good enough.

I put up pictures of the job . they're on this page, post 3018 -3021

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058010634/machinery-photo-discussion-thread-ii/p101

Still stihl waters 3

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118096751#Comment_118096751

What did you seal it with, I need to do the underside of mine also

patsy_mccabe

I have an 06 Landcruiser SWB. I had to get the 'cab seats' at the back welded on advice from the mechanic at the test centre. He passed it but told me better to get them done. It passed then again the following year. Rust seems to be their downfall, as they seem to keep going for ever. Mine has 200,000 km on it and I have it from 08. The only trouble it gave in all that time was the front wiper linkage that was replaced last year.

My biggest regret is that I didn't get the underside coated when I bought it. I was thinking of getting it done but someone told me i was mad to do it and they put me off doing it.

You should look into getting the injector seats replaced too, if not done already, These are the washers at the bottom of the injectors. Apparently these fail and allow air to be drawn into the engine and sludge up the oil, causing engine failure.

Someone told me lately too to look at the oil intake mesh in the sump, next time I change the oil. This can clog up with sludge and cause engine failure. Similar to above, I suppose.

Hard to gauge the damage from rust as some components are more critical than others. A good power wash and inspection by mechanic. You have to think about safety too. Do you want to be driving at 100kph when something fails?

wrangler

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118096813#Comment_118096813

They used a product called dinitrol, apparently harris's used to treat all new izuzus with it in the 1990s, and they had a 1995 trooper there in for a top up the day i was there and it had a better chassis than mine any way

Albert Johnson

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118096876#Comment_118096876

In fairness Patsy 200,000km on a 06 Landcruiser is barely ran in. Most of the second hand Cruisers of that era I see for sale are in the 300-500k mileage bracket.

I came very close to buying something in the 04-08 age bracket the last time when changing the last time but my mechanic put me off. He showed me a few examples of what looked to be clean jeeps that were either in need of substantial welding underneath or had already undergone it. A 06 model in particular that a neighbour had just purchased was all welded underneath. My mechanic was wondering as too how it would be gotten tested the next time without significant expense. The man that bought it only kept it 18 months and has a 171 Amarok atm so obviously he hadn't much faith in it afterwards. There's a world of those jeeps for sale atm either side of 10k and tbh I'd be very wary of them due to the amount of possible issues arising from age and a hard life.

As for the OP I'd give it a good powerwashing and go from there. Is the test near out on it? If so a tidy bit of welding and painting might get it through this time but it's only going to get worse with time. Spending money on a older yolk is a slippery slope as you get more commited with every euro especially if paying someone else to do the work. Unless it turns out to be a fairly minor fix then I'd think long and hard about putting it back up on donedeal and see what happens. Jeeps are crazy dear atm and anything is possible.

blue5000

Big problem with them is they rust from the inside first. By the time you notice it the damage is done. Waxoyl inside the chassis as early as possible in the Jeep’s life would prevent it. Had to weld mine near the back axle this year. I painted it with owlatrol, then rustoleum black paint with 5% owlatrol in the paint.

It’s unusual for them to rust at the front, usually it’s the back corner away from the exhaust that rusts first. The heat from the engine and exhaust dries out the chassis. When you power hose it check the back left corner in front of the back axle. Diesel tank straps is another bad area. It’s the salt in winter that causes it, and drain holes getting blocked with mud. OP is yours a UK import?

First pic is before welding.

paddysdream

Have the exact same year LWB here .About 450k on it .Chassis is perfect .Would only be washed underneath maybe 2 or 3 times a year and its would be in the field 365 days of the year .

As regards the engine ,got injector seals done under Toyota recall after buying it (3 years old) .Injectors were then done again at 250k as one had failed and another one was borderline .

Had the dreaded sump gauze problem last year .Own fault really .Used to clean it every 2nd or 3rd service but sump guard was bent and twisted and bolts siezed so hadn't done it for a while .

Oil light flashed on one night and before I could even turn it off engine had locked .Cost c.4k between engine rebuild ,turbo along with new clutch and few other bits.Thats without any labour bill as done it all here at home .

liam7831

Toyotas from that era seem to suffer a lot, I looked at a few Hilux 05 to 08 last year and some of them rear chassis was half rotten. You could literally pick pieces off it with you hand.

patsy_mccabe

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098056#Comment_118098056

Could you check the sump gauze without taking off the sump pan. I must check mine next service.

irishguy19772

Thanks for the advice.

Don't think it is a UK import.

Test is due Dec. Going to book it in tomorrow and go from there.

Just spent the last few hours underneath it pulling out earth ( last owner must have been off road a lot)

Only 250000 km on it and rest of chassis looks not too bad.

Got brackets underneath steps welded and done as they were starting to rust badly. Drives fine.

Plan was to get through test and get it cleaned and painted next spring.

But this is new corrosion I wasn't aware of.

I am 8500 in at this stage and dont want to give up yet.

Doe could give me a long list, so may reconsider. Thanks for all advice above

Albert Johnson

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098285#Comment_118098285

I'd give it a good washing underneath and book it in for the test and see what happens. It might not be too bad when it's cleaned up and a bit of welding and paint does wonders once it's not a structural issue. If it's tested then you have options as to how to proceed.

JustJoe7240

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098170#Comment_118098170

No, Sump has to come off, Copper washers on the injectors wear allowing carbon to get blown up by the injectors into the oil, It causes it to clump up and block the gauze on the oil pick up starving the engine of oil.

paddysdream

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098170#Comment_118098170

Not sure but I just dropped sump pan and washed it .Bit of instant gasket and bolt pan back on .

orm0nd

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098451#Comment_118098451

Think a fellow told he changes the washers every 50k. I know the troopers had the same issue back in day.

whelan2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118096876#Comment_118096876

Was it expensive to get the wipers fixed. Got timing belt done last week and mechanic hit one of the wipers when putting the bonnet down. The drivers wiper goes too far now and gets stuck iykwim

patsy_mccabe

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098948#Comment_118098948

Linkage was 184 euro plus labour.

paddysdream

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098948#Comment_118098948

That might not be a major problem to fix if all thats wrong is something bent .

Usual problem with Landcruiser wipers in wear in the spindle on the linkage which is a DOE failure if its bad .Not sure how many years ago but know mine failed on that and got a part exchange linkage from somewhere .Think it may have been Kerry and as to the cost no idea although know it was a fair bit cheaper than buying new linkage .

Mine (2006 6 speed) I have since late 2009 so that's 11 DOE tests I had with it .

Trying to remember all the bits that it failed on each year .Bald tyres (hoping they had enough thread to pass but no luck !!) broken spring ,nut on one bolt missing on driveshaft (that one got me the "do not drive " sticker on window which I only saw when almost home ) ,torn seat (needle and thread job ) ,usual assortment of wishbone bushes ,track rod ends ,drop links and the usual every 2nd year of worn anti roll bar bushes .Also handbrake cable seized (another common Landcruiser problem along with seized front calipers)

Worst (well most expensive for what they were plus biggest pain to do ) to my mind was front door hinges and rear door hinges .Rear ones were sagging as mine is the wheel mounted on rear door type .

Never a problem with rust or emissions so far .

Base price

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118098948#Comment_118098948

Maybe the wiper got wroung. I would take it off, reposition it back onto the motor splin (the bit that sticks out of the bonnet) in a position that looks normal in the off position and see if that works.