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Next to no heat in rads from solid fuel stove....

  • 16-10-2021 5:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭


    Have an Olymberyl "Aiden" stove, big yolk which allegedly should heat 9/10 rads. It's a duel system with an oil burner outside. On the oil, radiator heat is good to very good, if they are slightly cooler on the bottom than the top..

    On the coal and timber, I'm getting practically nothing in the rads. It's just taking the cold out of them, if that. Had a plumber out to look, he thought it all looked ok in the hot press. Just told me that coal/timber is never going to match oil, this is the way of the world. But I've had this system around 10 years and while the stove never got the rads hopping, it did a decent job of at least getting the nearer ones in the living area warm.

    Only thing Ive noticed is the circulating pump isnt kicking in til I knock down the thermostat in hot press to 5 or 4. Plumber told me to set it to 9 and get a great coal fire going and see what happens. Absolutely nothing happened. The stove itself was bulging with heat, the hot press was steaming but the rads were only lukewarm. Knock the pipe stat down and it flushes through, but with no great heat.

    Could anyone give me any pointers on this. I'll probably try another plumber next week anyway but would like to be armed with a bit of knowledge first....

    Post edited by Hyperbollix on


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    does the stove heat the cylinder



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭TTTT


    Get a new pump stat. Look for a orange one.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭Hyperbollix


    Yes, plenty hot water from the stove.

    Saw this on another forum. An orange IMIT pipe stat solved a similar issue for someone. Could it just be that thermostat is not registering the water getting to a high temp and only kicks in at lower temps, so only pumping lukewarm water around the house?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    you may have a balancing valve on your cylinder that is fully open get a plumber to have a look

    if its fully open the cyl will be robbing all the heat

    any bubbling and rumbling before pump stat activates

    set your cyl stat to 50 and go from there



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭handlemaster


    Would you not to think about getting a plumber to actually look at it ?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    He already said he had a plumber out. op, change the stat as suggested.

    also, check all pipes out at the oil boiler after the stove being lit for a few hours. See if they’re warm at all.

    post a picture of the hotpress pipework getting as much into one pic if you can



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭Hyperbollix




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭Hyperbollix


    Sorry lads, having trouble getting photos to appear in right orientation. More of the joys of new boards.


    DTP - Will check pipes for heat, when stove is going next. Is the white thermostat pictured the one you are talking about replacing for the IMIT one I mentioned earlier..


    Hopefully you can make head or tail of those photos. Difficult to get everything in with timber frame of press in the way as well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Will need a picture showing a lot more than that. How many coils on the cylinder? Yes that’s the stat.

    the red wheel valve, is that open fully?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭Hyperbollix


    Will get more pics so,


    No idea on coils, is there a way to find out?


    Red valve is fully open anticlockwise yes.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 678 ✭✭✭jmkennedyie


    Apologies if this is obvious but are rads bled of trapped air?

    Also, I have seen a pump getting stuck after long time idle. A light belt of hammer loosened it up.

    As an aside, I suspect my back boiler is a big generator of contaminants in my CH. I installed a magnaclean about 8 or 9 years ago. I am amazed (and slightly terrified) at the amount of sludge it traps each year. Each year edging closer to a catastrophic leak in the Back Boiler I guess!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,091 ✭✭✭Hyperbollix


    Link to video - https://streamable.com/ezafgn


    Spoke to plumber today who may be able to take a look at it end of the week. Advised me that leaving that white stat at 6 or 7 will just leave water boiling in cylinder and not circulate it often enough. I should have it at about 4. I thought that would just circulate lukewarm water. Anyway, have lit stove, it's red now, pump is cutting in more frequently but pipes in the press arent as hot as usual and the rads are basically blood heat......



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Don’t forget to check the pipes at the oil boiler.

    that red wheel valve should not be there and is dangerous. Do not close it, ever. If your previous plumber did not spot this then he’s as good as the incompetent fool that installed it in the first place. It’s hard to tell but I don’t see a second coil. Best bet is to get a plumber in who understands solid fuel pipework



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭Citizenpain


    is there a massive difference in the temp of the pipe before and after the pump ?



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