20moa with Schmidt & Bender 8X56 Hungarian

Cavan duck buster

I'm just after getting a Remington 700 .223 but am running out of adjustment to even zero the thig, there is a Bushnell banner on it but will be selling it soon and is mounted with Remington mounts.

I just baught myself a Schmidt & Bender 8X56 Hungarian and I'm wondering would I be better off getting a 20moa rail or 0moa rail? I know that the 8x56 is not a long range scope but I would like to be able to push it out for a few matches while I save up for something better in the future.

Would the Schmidt & Bender be still be ok on a 20 moa base begin able to zero at 100m? Also what would be the best rings I can get for about €100 that would be rock solid and not have to worry about holding zero?

Thanks 👍

Cass

How many minutes of adjustment for elevation is in the scope (bushnell)?

Cavan duck buster

To be perfectly honest I'm not too sure but there is a right amount of adjustment in it but when trying to zero it I had to run the elevation turret to the lowest and still had to aim 2-3 about the target at 100M

Cass

Just so I have this right.

You said you're running out of adjustment to zero it. This normally means after adjusting the elevation all the way "up" you still cannot get your zero. However you said in your second post that with all the adjustment "down" you are still 2-3 about (above) the target. I assume you mean the bull or is it the actual target. Only asking for details so I know how much adjustment you are out by.

Also if you cannot drop enough to get a zero then your issue will not be solved by a 20moa rail or any rail for that matter as this will increase the "up" elevation, not down so you'll end up higher above the target. You issue will be scope height above the barrel.

How much does the scope sit over the barrel? IOW how high are the rings and is there a large clearance between the bell housing of the scope and the barrel? If so, how much?

Cass

Just to go over a few things, so excuse me if you know this already or it sounds like I'm treating you as a noob, its not intended.

When you dial a scope the crosshairs move the opposite way to the way you need to adjust so that you're forced to physically move the rifle "back" to "meet" the crosshair hence get your zero. Example, if you look through your scope as you dial "up" (up as marked on the scope turret) the crosshair will in fact drop. This means you must rise up the rifle, meaning the bullets trajectory is raised and hence the shot is "lifted".

Another way to explain/show it is if you aim and fire (forget about windage for the moment) and you're three inches above the bull. So your crosshair is on the bull but the centre bore of the rifle is such that the impact point is three inches higher. You need to dial down three inches. As you look at the crosshair while dialing "down", with the crosshair on the bulleye as your original point of aim, you'll notice the crosshair actually rising. So you keep dialing and the crosshair moves up formt he bullseye to the bullet hole of your shot. Some lads do this rather than rely on the click value of the scope. It works too.

My point is the crosshair rose, the rifle had to be aimed lower, and so the shot is now in the bull and no longer high.

If this is the problem you are having but with the added problem of no longer being able to adjust down then the sight line of the scope and the rifle centrebore are too far apart for them to "intersect" and provide you with your zero. Usually this occurs because the scope is so high off the rifle and hence so far above the centrebore. I had a rifle/scope set up when the scope had 29 MOA of adjustment and I used 27 of it to get my zero. I was not happy about using nearly all the scope adjustment but when I checked the scope was about 9 to 10mm above the barrel and so the scope cente line was about 2.75 inches above the rifle centre bore. I resolved it by buying a lower set of rings which allowed me to get my zero with only 16.5 Moa of adjustment.

Cavan duck buster

Sorry Cass, flat out with work.

But ya the scope is mounted with Remington scope mounts, not too sure on scope height but the objective lens is fairly close to the barrel so I reckon they are low-medium, have no problem with windige, but I had the rifle mounted up on a bipod and rear sand bag, I used the top of the gate post to set my bore sight and when I went to adjust my elevation to get my cross hairs aligned I ran out, I was turning the turrets anti clockwise to lower the cross hair, the same way you would dile in for shooting long range, but the problem is the cross hairs are at least 2 feet high of the post and it will not adjust anymore. I reckon they were mounted arse ways by the previous owner but it is what it is.

I was massive into my .22 shooting years ago before college so I have a fair understanding off these things. But the scope is coming off and I'll be adding a Schmidt & Bender, the Remington rings are also coming off and going to use Tier-One 20MOA rail and tier- One mounts, my main question is if using a 20MOA rail would be too much over kill for the S&B 8X56 or would there be enough adjustment to push out to 600y yards with it? The scope has the A7 rectical and I know it's not a fine point cross hair as other scopes, but it will be my main foxing rifle for a while and when funds open up a bit later in life I'll be looking for something better to help make better long range shots when it comes to it.

Also for the S&B 8X56 on the 20MOA rail would low, medium or higher scope mounts be best?

Sorry if I got you confused at all about the Bushnell scope problem 🙈😂

JP22

Just a thought, swap the mounts around in case there is a slight difference between both of them.

Cass

Nope, my apologies. Got completely sidetracked by the Bushnell issue when its kinda moot if its coming off the rifle.

As for the 20moa rail and mounts, so long as you can get zero there is no overkill. From a 100 yard zero most 223s will hit 600 yards with an additional 15 to 17 Moa of adjustment. So coupled with the average of say 30 to 35 moa the scope had and the 20 ma built into the rail you have enough to get a zero and reach out to 600 yards with ease, i'd imagine.

As for height. A 20moa rail is usually about 9mm high on the front with 3mm clearance, 3mm housing thickness, and 28mm for the scope, so you're looking at a total clearance needed of about 25m. So according to Tier's site that is medium (22mm in 1" or 26mm in 20mm rings). IIRC the 8x56 has a 30mm tube so medium should work. Just confirm the height of the rail before ordering.