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Non-dealer dashcam invalidates warranty?

  • 15-07-2021 5:31pm
    Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭ Peig Sayers

    In the process of buying a new (1 yr old) car.

    Asked the dealer if I could have the dashcams from my old car fitted in the new one (car was being taken in part-exchange and would be sold at auction). Dealer asked if it was a plug in one and I told them it was wired in by Halfords. He told me that if I had it re-fitted it would invalidate my warranty?

    Is this correct? How could a simple dashcam make any difference to a faulty engine or clutch? I really don't want to drive a car without dashcams due to the amount of muppets on the road. Is my only option to get one of the plug in ones? Would Halfords fit it so that you can't see the leads? There's nearly another four years left on the warranty and I don't want to lose that.

    Edit - I managed to find car power cables in Halfords so ordered two. Just won't look as nice as a hardwired job 😒

    Post edited by Peig Sayers on


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭ Peig Sayers

    Update - went to Halfords this morning and spoke to a fitter who told me they fit them all the time to new cars. Once it's fitted by a professional it shouldn't invalidate the warranty. I spoke to the dealer head office who told me that that was correct and sent me an email confirming that. Always get a second opinion!

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭ Peig Sayers

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭ kirving

    I work in automotive electronic manufacturer (cameras as it happens) - and spend plenty of time designing electrical interfaces to ensure that one component doesn't interfere with another.

    Can you tell me about the EMC compliance testing and system-level validation that the OP's dashcam went through, to ensure that it does't adversely effect any other component in the car, such as a forward looking camera for autonomous braking? How about the fuse tap on a random circuit that was installed in the most easily accessible place by the "professional" who's against the clock? Did it affect anything? Was the "professional" certified to do this work by the manufacturer?

    We don't know the answer to the above, and neither does the manufacturer - so they disallow it point blank. And IMO rightly so - given the number of interferences I've seen between automotive grade components.

    OP, yes it can affect your warranty, and it absolutely can interfere with your car. Best option is to just use the 12V socket, tuck away the cable as neatly as possible, and remove it before servicing.

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,180 ✭✭✭ pah

    I was referring to the fact that the dealer told the OP it would invalidate the warranty but head office told them that it would not. Head office has a policy on it but this dealer didn't know that. That's all I'm talking about. Not the technicalities of doing the job properly.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 15 Smyl

    Is there any difference between hardwiring to the socket or sticking it in?

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭ kirving

    Apologies yes, I understood that incorrectly the first time. If I had any issues with warranty that were electrical related though, I'd be removing the dashcam before going to the dealer, despite what head office said.

    Yes, the 12V socket likely has a filter to minimise any electrical noise which may be generated by third party components, as the manufacturer will expect them on that line. The power supply tracks may also be routed differently on the fuse board to further minimise noise and interference with other electrical systems.

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,031 ✭✭✭ kaizersoze

    There must be something about dashcams. I had an issue with a Transit Connect van where the Auto Stop/Start function stopped working. 5-year manufacturer warranty on the van and it was just over a year old.

    Anyway, when I contacted the dealer the first question he asked me was if I had a dashcam (which I had). He told me to disconnect it and see if the problem rectified itself. It didn't make any difference and they took it in a week later for repair. Turned out to be a faulty battery but I found it odd at the time that he specifically asked about a dashcam and no other accessory.

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,174 ✭✭✭ J.R.

    If the OP would prefer the dashcam to be hard wiring - could the dashcam leads be connected to the leads directly feeding the plug in 12v connection?...........would that not have the same effect and eliminate any interference?

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭ kirving

    That would certainly be best, but may not be as good as into the socket itself.

    I had a hardwire kit in a Volvo S40 which badly affected the radio reception, but was fine when a put another ferrite core around the lead, or if I used the 12V socket. Much of the time, the power filter will take up an amount of physical space, and is part of the 12V plug itself, and/or another in the socket.

    It practice, it will almost certainly present no problem whatsoever - but it could. You don't want to be arguing the toss with a dealer who will refer back to the user manual for the car which will have a general statement along the line of "electrical repairs must be carried out by an authorised service centre". It'll be up to you to prove that the modification didn't cause any problem (and believe me I've seen some strange ones!), Halfords won't be backing you up when you have a expensive problem to fix.

    OP, has your car got a 12V socket in the back seat or in the boot? I might be better to connect it in there, even if the wiring run is longer if might be easier to hide.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,174 ✭✭✭ J.R.

    Very interesting - never realised that there could be problems like that.

    I've an X-Trail T30 and Nissan put in 3 12v sockets - in the boot, dash and in the storage compartment, at the driver's side.

    This 12v socket in the storage compartment is ideal for hiding connections for dashcams and for a phone charger.

    I don't know why other manufacturers don't do similar.

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,666 ✭✭✭✭ listermint

    He was asking if the dashcam was drawing from the back up start stop battery but he probably should have said that.

    The start stop battery is usually the one that also keeps the radio on when ignition off too. If the dashcam was draining that the new battery would have suffered the same faith

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,031 ✭✭✭ kaizersoze

    Yeah. I know well why he was drain on the battery etc....but I was curious as to why he immediately asked about a dashcam specifically and no other accessory.

    There's no separate Start/Stop battery in the Connect btw. Just one main battery that does all. An expensive little ba$tard by all accounts. I had a courtesy van from Ford for 3 weeks as there wasn't any in stock anywhere in Europe apparently.

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,666 ✭✭✭✭ listermint

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭ Peig Sayers

    I have a 12v socket just under the dash where I've connected it to. Found it hard to get the wires tucked in at the side of the window. Thought there would be more flexability with the lining. However, it's working fine and that's the main thing!