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Turning a 'manual' heating zone into an 'auto' one?

  • 26-06-2021 4:10pm
    #1
    Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭


    Pardon the lack of knowledge on the correct language to be using, folks.


    Just wondering if anyone can share some knowledge with me in regards to heating zones?

    Effectively, I have a house and a shed. The house has a combi gas boiler, and it has a 1 zone EPH system. Pretty much, I have this:

    Screenshot-2021-06-26-at-17-01-59-Eph-For-Sale-in-Blanchardstown-Dublin-from-THE-CTG-SALES.png


    So the house has 1 zone, and the thermostat is in the kitchen, which is all perfectly fine.

    However, I use the shed as a "garden room" of sorts, and it gets a fair bit of use as a home office nowadays, too. A plumber brought piping from the boiler, to the shed, and stuck in some radiators. So now the shed has hot water and heating. Great.

    Now the boiler has two red valves/levers on it.

    Red-Handle-Lever-Ball-Valve.jpg


    These control where the heating goes. If both are 'on, the shed and house will both warm up, or you can have one on, while the other is off.

    However, I would like to get a thermostat in the shed so i can control the heat from the shed itself, without having to leave it (so if it gets cold, i don't have to run down the garden to the house, in the pissing rain, and turn the valve, and run back up the garden again, or do the opposite, if the heating is on, but it's too warm).


    As far as I am aware, I can buy the same controls again, but for 2 zones:


    Screenshot-2021-06-26-at-17-07-32-Eph-Controls-For-Sale-in-Watergrasshill-Cork-from-aidasklp.png


    .. and in theory, i just get another thermostat, and presumably they connect wirelessly and wallah, job done.


    However, the issue i face is the valves on the boiler itself. The boiler itself obviously only thinks there's 1 zone, and I have to manually divert heat by pulling levers, so i was wondering does anyone know their way around this? I have heard you can get electronic levers but I'm not sure if that is the answer i need here or not, or if there's more to this?

    Apologies for the long post.

    Or.. if anyone is an actual plumber familiar with this work and wants to give a rough quote.. feel free to PM me (Louth).




    Cheers folks :)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,711 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Sounds like that can be achieved.

    The valves you have would need to be replaced with motorised zone valves.

    Can you get a cable from the valves location to the office for a room stat there?


  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Lenar3556 wrote: »
    Sounds like that can be achieved.

    The valves you have would need to be replaced with motorised zone valves.

    Can you get a cable from the valves location to the office for a room stat there?

    Does the thermostat need wiring? My current one (as per the pic above) is wireless... although Im not sure if i may be just a bit too far (distance-wise) to use it wirelessly?

    But yeah, we have electrics and water running to the shed (it's almost nicer than the house :P ) so in theory shouldn't be an issue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,711 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Wired would be best, but you could do wireless. If it is out of range for some of the heating controls packages like you have, you could fit a wired stat in the office and use point to point 868mhz transmission back to the house.

    Something like Scantronic 703r and 762r - about €350


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Lenar3556 wrote: »
    Wired would be best, but you could do wireless. If it is out of range for some of the heating controls packages like you have, you could fit a wired stat in the office and use point to point 868mhz transmission back to the house.

    Something like Scantronic 703r and 762r - about €350
    Or those extenders that utilise your electricity wiring.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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