Kuhn FC250 bed

happylad

Hi all,

I have an issue with my mower in that one of the blades is after bending and digging into the bed. I need to take the top plate of the bed off to access the gears as one of them is damaged. I have a problem. I am trying to loosen the socket head screws but they are seized to death. Other problem is there so rusted the allen key is rounding the inside of the socket so I can't grip it (Marked yellow). Has anyone had this issue before. Can I drill it out. I was goin to drill out the part I marked in blue. Would this be any use.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2i72nqmgfaid1fr/20210509_135026.jpg?dl=0

Charolois 19

Can you weld on a bolt to the sized ones, hit it with penetrating fluid over night or as long as it could be left really, before that give her a few belts of a hammer to try break up the rust in the treads as best possible, and if all else fails heat the living days out of it with a torch to expand the metal

happylad

Thanks Charolois 19 for your reply. I'll try that and see how it goes. Tis some dose to get them off

K.G.

First option is hit it with a flat rod to pack the sides of the stud to make it tight on the Allen key again.nuclear option is weld something into it but you'dwant to be tasty with the rods.i would not drill

lab man

happylad wrote: »

Hi all,

I have an issue with my mower in that one of the blades is after bending and digging into the bed. I need to take the top plate of the bed off to access the gears as one of them is damaged. I have a problem. I am trying to loosen the socket head screws but they are seized to death. Other problem is there so rusted the allen key is rounding the inside of the socket so I can't grip it (Marked yellow). Has anyone had this issue before. Can I drill it out. I was goin to drill out the part I marked in blue. Would this be any use.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2i72nqmgfaid1fr/20210509_135026.jpg?dl=0

Buy a good set of thorx keys or buy a 10 mm one hammer it into it and it will come off the thorx will grip the key I've done a good few this way needs to be a good thorx tho
Do you have a yellow gas torch I'd buy one and give it a bit of heat you'll have aswell

FintanMcluskey

Are the skids still on the bed? The stone guard is so I assume the skid is

This job can’t be done with the skid on the mower

Take off the skid to expose the “holder” of the Allen key bolt underneath.

The holder is likely round with 2 recessed holes that an angle grinder key will fit, it may well be easier to turn the holder underneath than turn the Allen key.

Hammer the Allen key to shock the bolt while twisting the holder underneath

oxjkqg

The best thing you could do is talk to Ian Atchinson down in limerick. He will advise you on how to get them out and any parts you need. Hes a genius with them

happylad

FintanMcluskey Yes the skids are still on it. I didnt realize that it could be got at from underneath. I'll rip them off this eve and see how it goes. Thanks

happylad

oxjkqg yes he might be a man to talk to. I got parts from him before and he is dead on

FintanMcluskey

happylad wrote: »

FintanMcluskey Yes the skids are still on it. I didnt realize that it could be got at from underneath. I'll rip them off this eve and see how it goes. Thanks

It’s in 2 parts with an Allen bolt holding it together and o-rings in between

The bottom piece is what the Allen bolt threads into so it’s essentially the nut.

happylad

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

It’s in 2 parts with an Allen bolt holding it together and o-rings in between

The bottom piece is what the Allen bolt threads into so it’s essentially the nut.

Thanks for that. I think i'll heat the area and spray on the penetrating fluid as was suggested and see can i unwind the nut from the underside. If the angle grinder spanner will hold it i should be able to shock it with a hammer. I bust a 10mm allen socket yesterday with the impact driver trying to loosen it. I assume the job can be done without taking the bed off. Do you know is there more bolts than that to rip to get access to the bed

lab man

happylad wrote: »

Thanks for that. I think i'll heat the area and spray on the penetrating fluid as was suggested and see can i unwind the nut from the underside. If the angle grinder spanner will hold it i should be able to shock it with a hammer. I bust a 10mm allen socket yesterday with the impact driver trying to loosen it. I assume the job can be done without taking the bed off. Do you know is there more bolts than that to rip to get access to the bed

Shes a top repair bed and I'm fairly sure you wont be able to use that angle grinder thing unless you want to do alot of ripping the tray under the bed will be in the way which covers them nuts I've ripped enough of jd beds and they are the same

FintanMcluskey

lab man wrote: »

Shes a top repair bed and I'm fairly sure you wont be able to use that angle grinder thing unless you want to do alot of ripping the tray under the bed will be in the way which covers them nuts I've ripped enough of jd beds and they are the same

Does the idler gear slide out if the bottom holder is in position?

Or how does one remove the top holder with the bottom holder in position? Is a slide hammer required?

lab man

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

Does the idler gear slide out if the bottom holder is in position?

Or how does one remove the top holder with the bottom holder in position? Is a slide hammer required?

The idlers are bolted with the nut with the 2 dowels bed has to come out if doing all that rip the bolt the idler will come up the hole for the gear put in all new o rings and new bolts and nuts

happylad

lab man wrote: »

The idlers are bolted with the nut with the 2 dowels bed has to come out if doing all that rip the bolt the idler will come up the hole for the gear put in all new o rings and new bolts and nuts

Thanks lab man. Goin on what you are saying only answer is to get the bolt out from the top. I'll hear them but there is one or 2 that when the 10mm Allen head socket goes into them it's not gripping at the socket head top has rounded. Would you drill them out or what would be a solution.

FintanMcluskey

happylad wrote: »

Thanks lab man. Goin on what you are saying only answer is to get the bolt out from the top. I'll hear them but there is one or 2 that when the 10mm Allen head socket goes into them it's not gripping at the socket head top has rounded. Would you drill them out or what would be a solution.

Are you removing all the idler gears or just the damaged one?

Nekarsulm

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

Does the idler gear slide out if the bottom holder is in position?

Or how does one remove the top holder with the bottom holder in position? Is a slide hammer required?

You need to remove the four bolts that go through the bed, 19mm I think, and lift out the driven gear that the "turtle shell" is bolted to.
If all else fails, weld a bolt to the yellow marked piece in your photo.
The heat of welding should help loosen the threads.
Put a trolley jack underneath the bed, with something like a socket or nut on it to jam against the lower part of that part you are trying to unscrew, and jack it up a bit, to jeep it from spinning.
Then the idler gears can be slid over and come out the hole left from removing the hub.
There are spaces with O rings as well to remove, before the idler will come out.
You can find the exploded diagram on Deeres online manuals website.

happylad

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

Are you removing all the idler gears or just the damaged one?

I just need to remove the damaged one the rest of them are moving fine

Gman1987

Just be careful removing just the one gear. If it has a tooth broken off then you need to find it, otherwise it could end up going through the rest of the gears. its a big job but the best thing to do is wash out the bed. With a older mower its amazing the amount of filings there can be in the bed and if left there they are all wearing down the gears.

lab man

Gman1987 wrote: »

Just be careful removing just the one gear. If it has a tooth broken off then you need to find it, otherwise it could end up going through the rest of the gears. its a big job but the best thing to do is wash out the bed. With a older mower its amazing the amount of filings there can be in the bed and if left there they are all wearing down the gears.

Exactly be very careful , mark the with tipex too for lining up hats heard of a new bed wrecked this way never washed the bed just fecked in a new hub didnt last long

happylad

Gman1987 wrote: »

Just be careful removing just the one gear. If it has a tooth broken off then you need to find it, otherwise it could end up going through the rest of the gears. its a big job but the best thing to do is wash out the bed. With a older mower its amazing the amount of filings there can be in the bed and if left there they are all wearing down the gears.

Thanks for that. If i can get the bolts off at all i will wash it out as well.

happylad

lab man wrote: »

Exactly be very careful , mark the with tipex too for lining up hats heard of a new bed wrecked this way never washed the bed just fecked in a new hub didnt last long

When you say for lining up the hats i assume it just means that the hats go back on the hubs with the arrows for the knives going the right way and that the hat is turned 90deg to the one beside it in the correct sequence

Gman1987

happylad wrote: »

Thanks for that. If i can get the bolts off at all i will wash it out as well.

Power washer (hot wash preference) and flush it out with the likes of diesel after

FintanMcluskey

happylad wrote: »

When you say for lining up the hats i assume it just means that the hats go back on the hubs with the arrows for the knives going the right way and that the hat is turned 90deg to the one beside it in the correct sequence

No, it’s possible to refit hubs with timing not aligned.

Each hub has 4 bolt holes for the disc that must be perfectly aligned to the adjoining hub to disc bolt holes

A straight edge across the hubs will align the bolt holes before you fit the 4 bolts from bed to hub

lab man

FintanMcluskey wrote: »

No, it’s possible to refit hubs with timing not aligned.

Each hub has 4 bolt holes for the disc that must be perfectly aligned to the adjoining hub to disc bolt holes

A straight edge across the hubs will align the bolt holes before you fit the 4 bolts from bed to hub

I'm talking about the hats going back on

FintanMcluskey

lab man wrote: »

I'm talking about the hats going back on

If the teeth on the drive hubs are not timed correctly the hats will never align correctly.

Of course the hat timing is important but it’s much less complicated to aligned than the drive hubs