Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Drive belt adjustment

  • 21-04-2021 4:39pm
    #1
    Richard tea
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭


    This simple task has me stumped. Ive no experience with drive belts. The bike is a gv650 Hyosung.


    I cant figure out how to correctly adjust the belt. I have the bike jacked up off the ground.



    1) Should the belt always rest a the bottom indication line ( Red line ) If thats the case its far too slack and the tension tool I use is useless.


    2) when I tighten up the belt it will sit at the green line. Using the tool I can then reach 6mm of play when I hot the 10lbs marker on the tool. But this seems a little too tight and the belt squeaks when rotated.



    Any youtube guide is usually a Harley Davidson or Indian etc.


Comments

  • #2
    flashinthepan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Are you measuring the 6mm of play with a tape or using the graduations marked on the guard as the graduations may not be millimetres rather just guide marks
    I could be talking complete rubbish but look big to be mm markings


  • #3
    Richard tea
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    flashinthepan wrote: »
    Are you measuring the 6mm of play with a tape or using the graduations marked on the guard as the graduations may not be millimetres rather just guide marks
    I could be talking complete rubbish but look big to be mm markings




    I was using the graduation marks. From top to bottom its 20mm total. I played around with it some more. The belt was rubbing off the outer side on the front sprocket. I now have it adjusted thats it not rubbing. The belt currently rests around midway up the graduation marks.

    Its a right pain. Ideally the exhaust should be removed to get at the adjustment screws. Unfortunately some of the screws holding the exhaust in place are badly corroded.


  • #4
    flashinthepan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Richard tea wrote: »
    Unfortunately some of the screws holding the exhaust in place are badly corroded.
    Ah don't talk to me I had to drill and tap 2 new bolt holes for adjusters on the swingarm on my own yoke
    I feel your pain they just snapped off like they were made of butter :-)

    Glad you got sorted


  • #5
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I could be wrong but those teeth on the belt look a bit suspect, are they cracked along the whole tooth length or just the edges?
    In fairness could be talking complete rot, I haven't ever had a belt drive bike but I have seen a few timing belts that look like that.


  • #6
    Richard tea
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I could be wrong but those teeth on the belt look a bit suspect, are they cracked along the whole tooth length or just the edges?
    In fairness could be talking complete rot, I haven't ever had a belt drive bike but I have seen a few timing belts that look like that.

    It's just on the outer edge. I have inspected the belt and sprocket teeth. All look fine. 38k on the bike. Worst case scenario there is a chain and sprocket conversion kit for under €200. A new belt and pulleys would set me back around €400 Or maybe more.


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    Umiq88
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Umiq88


    What the manual is saying is that when you apply 4.5kg of force the belt should move from the position it was in by 4.5 to 5.5mm.

    The general rule of thumb with drive belts is you should be able to turn the belt 90degrees by hand without to much effort. This is in the middle obviously.

    The belt should be snug on the pulley but when pushed by hand in the middle it should have a bit of play. To tight and you will damage bearings.


  • #8
    Richard tea
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Umiq88 wrote: »
    What the manual is saying is that when you apply 4.5kg of force the belt should move from the position it was in by 4.5 to 5.5mm.

    The general rule of thumb with drive belts is you should be able to turn the belt 90degrees by hand without to much effort. This is in the middle obviously.

    The belt should be snug on the pulley but when pushed by hand in the middle it should have a bit of play. To tight and you will damage bearings.




    Took it for a short spin today and it was much better. Short lived though because when I held in the clutch and braked the engine would stall/cut out. It restarts fine though. Its a SV650 engine some maybe this is something common to them. More investigation needed.


  • #9
    Henry Ford III
    Moderators, Business & Finance Moderators Posts: 17,858 Mod ✭✭✭✭Henry Ford III


    Richard tea wrote: »
    Took it for a short spin today and it was much better. Short lived though because when I held in the clutch and braked the engine would stall/cut out. It restarts fine though. Its a SV650 engine some maybe this is something common to them. More investigation needed.

    Check the clutch cable adjustment and idle speed. Should be c.1250rpm


Advertisement