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Any idea on how to fix

  • 01-03-2021 7:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭


    Hi all

    So my toilet brush holder is lopsided.

    I put the bracket of a toilet roll holder on straight but - as you’ll see from the picture - the brace was cold welded on at an angle. So when the grub screw is tightened it goes lop sided.


    It seems that both the bolt and nut are welded.


    Tried the bottom of a big file but no joy. Any other suggestions welcome. Many thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    karlitob wrote: »
    Hi all

    So my toilet brush holder is lopsided.

    I put the bracket of a toilet roll holder on straight but - as you’ll see from the picture - the brace was cold welded on at an angle. So when the grub screw is tightened it goes lop sided.


    It seems that both the bolt and nut are welded.


    Tried the bottom of a big file but no joy. Any other suggestions welcome. Many thanks.

    Forgot pics


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,048 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Turn upside down so you don't see grub screw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Turn upside down so you don't see grub screw

    ??? I need to remove the nut in the centre to realign the brace so that it’s straight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Grind tack weld and reweld once straight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,886 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    depending on the fitting, and assuming the grub screw goes into a particular place, it might be easier to file slots in the base plate to rotate it the requisite amount.
    A small chain saw file would work well

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    depending on the fitting, and assuming the grub screw goes into a particular place, it might be easier to file slots in the base plate to rotate it the requisite amount.
    A small chain saw file would work well

    Thanks for that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    +1 on the above
    if you share a pick of the bracket itself we might have other ideas too :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    GreeBo wrote: »
    +1 on the above
    if you share a pick of the bracket itself we might have other ideas too :)

    Well - I realised I had a dremel so grinded down the cold weld.

    Then I got a ratchet on it and twisted it off. So far so good.

    But when I tried to put the nut back on, the bit of cold weld buggered the threads on the bolt. So now it won’t cinch.

    I make more problems for myself than I fix.

    There’s such a thing as metal filler isn’t there. Would that be useful?

    Appreciate any new suggestions on how to fix what I broke.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Tap that buggered thread for a smaller size nut, then use a big washer to hold it against the plate.
    Or Take it to a welder and let him tack on piece of stainless threaded bar the correct size and a new nut.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Tap that buggered thread for a smaller size nut, then use a big washer to hold it against the plate.
    Or Take it to a welder and let him tack on piece of stainless threaded bar the correct size and a new nut.

    Good idea. Neighbour welds - will give it to him. Don’t have a tap / should’ve picked up he also one.

    Thanks again.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    karlitob wrote: »
    Good idea. Neighbour welds - will give it to him. Don’t have a tap / should’ve picked up he also one.

    Thanks again.

    You could also trim the collar that covers the bar to expose more thread within the fitting?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    GreeBo wrote: »
    You could also trim the collar that covers the bar to expose more thread within the fitting?

    I had though of that but it’s honours level stuff. As you can tell, I’ve failed foundation level.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    karlitob wrote: »
    I had though of that but it’s honours level stuff. As you can tell, I’ve failed foundation level.

    The other option is to just replace the threaded bar entirely?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,656 ✭✭✭✭Tokyo


    • Grind off the knackered bolt from the holder with the Dremel (it looks tacked on in the photo)
    • Drill a hole through the TP holder.
    • Pick up a similarly sized stainless steel nut and bolt, and bolt the holder to the bracket, directly through the hole you drilled. With the right bolt, it will look like it came that way.
      Alternatively, ask the neighbour to weld the new bolt as a direct replacement of the old. If he's using a stick welder, and not MIG or TIG, don't bother asking.

    <edit> I'm not convinced that thread can't be retapped to the same thread though - it's mangled, but you could probably force the same thread into it again. It's not like it's under a huge amount of strain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Tokyo wrote: »
    • Grind off the knackered bolt from the holder with the Dremel (it looks tacked on in the photo)
    • Drill a hole through the TP holder.
    • Pick up a similarly sized stainless steel nut and bolt, and bolt the holder to the bracket, directly through the hole you drilled. With the right bolt, it will look like it came that way.
      Alternatively, ask the neighbour to weld the new bolt as a direct replacement of the old. If he's using a stick welder, and not MIG or TIG, don't bother asking.

    <edit> I'm not convinced that thread can't be retapped to the same thread though - it's mangled, but you could probably force the same thread into it again. It's not like it's under a huge amount of strain.

    Great ideas. Fair play.

    I agree - I don’t think so either. It’s a replacement. The toilet brush holder sits into the collar so it might not even be seen. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Tokyo wrote: »
    • Grind off the knackered bolt from the holder with the Dremel (it looks tacked on in the photo)
    • Drill a hole through the TP holder.
    • Pick up a similarly sized stainless steel nut and bolt, and bolt the holder to the bracket, directly through the hole you drilled. With the right bolt, it will look like it came that way.
      Alternatively, ask the neighbour to weld the new bolt as a direct replacement of the old. If he's using a stick welder, and not MIG or TIG, don't bother asking.

    <edit> I'm not convinced that thread can't be retapped to the same thread though - it's mangled, but you could probably force the same thread into it again. It's not like it's under a huge amount of strain.

    The bolt will be in the way of the brush holder though...you might get away with a carriage bolt with a domed head, depends on how much play there is between holder and brush.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov


    GreeBo wrote: »
    You could also trim the collar that covers the bar to expose more thread within the fitting?

    +1 on this
    karlitob wrote: »
    I had though of that but it’s honours level stuff. As you can tell, I’ve failed foundation level.

    Very easy - Cut 10mm off the knackered thread and cut the same off the collar - use a hose clip tightened on the collar as a cut guide to keep it square.

    Get a new nut (looks like M8). I get the other poster comments re stick/mig/tig but imo, any ol snot of a weld holding the nut would do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Gen.Zhukov wrote: »
    +1 on this



    Very easy - Cut 10mm off the knackered thread and cut the same off the collar - use a hose clip tightened on the collar as a cut guide to keep it square.

    Get a new nut (looks like M8). I get the other poster comments re stick/mig/tig but imo, any ol snot of a weld holding the nut would do.

    Thanks for that. The collar is very pliable - I doubt I’d get a clean cut on the dremel or hacksaw. Hose clip is a really good idea though.


    Besides - I buggered the threads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov


    karlitob wrote: »
    Thanks for that. The collar is very pliable - I doubt I’d get a clean cut on the dremel or hacksaw. Hose clip is a really good idea though.


    Besides - I buggered the threads.

    The hose clip means you can't really go wrong. I know the end of the thread is fubar, cut it off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Drill a hole through the bar and stick in a split pin, use some hot melt glue to stop it spinning and never think about it again!
    The weight of the holder should keep it level enough anyway.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Drill a hole through the bar and stick in a split pin, use some hot melt glue to stop it spinning and never think about it again!
    The weight of the holder should keep it level enough anyway.

    Neighbour fixed it.

    Shortened thread bar, shortened collar and put metal epoxy to keep it tight.

    Thanks to everyone for their help. Team approach!


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