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Girder height (lean two)

  • 31-12-2020 11:34am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭


    I have 13ft girders at the back of an existing slatted shed.. was thinking of putting a 2 bay lean two off the back for some machinery/crap ect.

    (1) If I drop 12 inches to clear the original shoots leaving 12ft what bay width could i get comfortable with a decent fall on the roof (dont like or want the roof flat looking)

    (2) If I ever decided to rear a few calves or weanings on straw in the rear of the shed what would be the best way of getting the wet (piss) run off back to the tank to aid keeping bedding dry ... I won't do a bought channel as i think alot of tank capacity is lost ...and expensive

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,555 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    I have 13ft girders at the back of an existing slatted shed.. was thinking of putting a 2 bay lean two off the back for some machinery/crap ect.

    (1) If I drop 12 inches to clear the original shoots leaving 12ft what bay width could i get comfortable with a decent fall on the roof (dont like or want the roof flat looking)

    (2) If I ever decided to rear a few calves or weanings on straw in the rear of the shed what would be the best way of getting the wet (piss) run off back to the tank to aid keeping bedding dry ... I won't do a bought channel as i think alot of tank capacity is lost ...and expensive

    Thanks

    Why do you want to keep the original chutes? Would it not be easier to follow the same pitch and slide your new sheeting up under the existing sheeting and you wouldn't be losing a foot in height either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    Its already a grant open 3 bay with 11ft creep ,canopy to front slatted unit with manholes both ends.
    I was thinking that if another say 16-18ft was added that it would be around 45ft with no break... does that not seem a lot ? In heavy rain snow?
    I was thinking that the 1ft drop would look a bit better also.... I'm a bit odd that way...:o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    Added to the rear of something very similar...13 ft rear girders..
    Lean-to-farm-building-2-1.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    Get the dimensions of your existing shed ie height at front and width and draw it to scale on paper eg X cms = 1 foot. Then you can play around with new extension to see what looks right. You might see that maybe putting a leg up off that rear girder would work better for clearance


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Would agree with the leg up idea. The new roof can then slope at the same angle as the original roof. Use yorkshire boarding on the gap.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,127 ✭✭✭minerleague


    I have 13ft girders at the back of an existing slatted shed.. was thinking of putting a 2 bay lean two off the back for some machinery/crap ect.

    (1) If I drop 12 inches to clear the original shoots leaving 12ft what bay width could i get comfortable with a decent fall on the roof (dont like or want the roof flat looking)

    (2) If I ever decided to rear a few calves or weanings on straw in the rear of the shed what would be the best way of getting the wet (piss) run off back to the tank to aid keeping bedding dry ... I won't do a bought channel as i think alot of tank capacity is lost ...and expensive

    Thanks
    What about slope in other direction and use existing gutter for both??
    Built a shed here and came out and up like others have said with same slope as existing shed for better ventilation. If you build it as you suggest you be down to 8 foot fairly quickly ( and if you want slope in floor to come back towards tank that will be 7 foot then)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    Great advice here as always, The leg up puts a whole new approach and possibilities... I don't use this forum enough..
    thanks all
    cc30


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,585 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I slide sheeting up underneath existing sheeting and move gutters to end of new shed. It only three bay so side acc as will be grand. Use existing slope. You could lower the floor of the new shed by 8-16'' not ideal but possible. You could slope this floor but I be against that. 10' is the enough clearance for most tractors.

    3-12 is a 14 degree pitch so at 15 degrees you would hit 10' after about 11' as generally most cattle sheds are 15 degrees. You could drop to 7-8' in reality about 16-20' with and just pick where any pard is used for tractors or higher machinery

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,161 ✭✭✭crackcrack30


    Thanks Bass.... I don't think i'd bother for a 11ft width shed.. just for the sake of using 3 existing girders.
    I think with just 2 bays to get value i'd need at least 18ft wide to make sense … and not have it too pokey.

    I take it that the angled legs are bolted on to the existing up rights? Id probably get someone to do it for me.... any recommendations in the mid west region?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,127 ✭✭✭minerleague


    Thanks Bass.... I don't think i'd bother for a 11ft width shed.. just for the sake of using 3 existing girders.
    I think with just 2 bays to get value i'd need at least 18ft wide to make sense … and not have it too pokey.

    I take it that the angled legs are bolted on to the existing up rights? Id probably get someone to do it for me.... any recommendations in the mid west region?

    Yeah usually done with I beam wider than gutters to come out from existing pillar


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