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Recommend a welder

  • 19-11-2020 9:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭ johnnyfruitcake


    Hi,

    Looking for a welder for general farm work, fixing machinery, gates and some fabrication.

    Is the one on sale in EPT any use or would it be a bit weak?


    S00wHqY


«13

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭ johnnyfruitcake


    S00wHqY


  • Registered Users Posts: 787 ✭✭✭ richie123


    S00wHqY

    Not sure if it's any good but I'd recommend a good antistick tech on a welder.nothing worse than a welder sticking as u weld all the time


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,908 ✭✭✭✭ _Brian


    Anti stick tech ??
    That’s a new one on me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,785 ✭✭✭ dzer2


    That's a fine welder for small occasional work. They had a better deal a few weeks back the price was 40 quid cheaper


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 685 keepalive213


    I have a Jefferson 'toaster' arc welder, 160 amp. Paid around 300 for it about 3 years ago and happy with it for general farm welding.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 787 ✭✭✭ richie123


    _Brian wrote: »
    Anti stick tech ??
    That’s a new one on me.

    Yep it's some job it's out a few years now


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,908 ✭✭✭✭ _Brian


    richie123 wrote: »
    Yep it's some job it's out a few years now

    We’re running a big auld “lump” of an air cooled welder from early 1989’s, nothin fancy there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 787 ✭✭✭ richie123


    _Brian wrote: »
    We’re running a big auld “lump” of an air cooled welder from early 1989’s, nothin fancy there.

    Nothing wrong with it.an invertor is small and handy for moving around from job to job.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭ blue5000


    richie123 wrote: »
    Nothing wrong with it.an invertor is small and handy for moving around from job to job.

    I've an old 1980s air cooled 250 amp and a 160? amp inverter. Old welder is a much better welder, better penetration. Maybe because the inverter is lighter and is working off the extension cable all the time, the welds seem to be weaker. Anyone else find this. OP how much do you want to spend?

    I reckon if you will be welding anything thicker than 4mm an inverter won't do it properly. Learn how to stick weld first before mig/tig you'll find it a lot more difficult the other way round.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 17,908 ✭✭✭✭ _Brian


    Going off topic I know.
    I fixed our big hulk of an air cooled to a cheap sack barrow with pneumatic wheels. Space to fit a small plastic crate as well as a storage box for rods and bits. Cables wrap easily round the handles of the sack barrow.

    Very little spent and makes the welder super portable round a yard where there isn’t concrete everywhere.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 787 ✭✭✭ richie123


    blue5000 wrote: »
    I've an old 1980s air cooled 250 amp and a 160? amp inverter. Old welder is a much better welder, better penetration. Maybe because the inverter is lighter and is working off the extension cable all the time, the welds seem to be weaker. Anyone else find this. OP how much do you want to spend?

    I reckon if you will be welding anything thicker than 4mm an inverter won't do it properly. Learn how to stick weld first before mig/tig you'll find it a lot more difficult the other way round.

    160 is very small you'd need a minimum of 180 especially with leads


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,027 Mod ✭✭✭✭ blue5000


    richie123 wrote: »
    160 is very small you'd need a minimum of 180 especially with leads
    That's why I put a ? after it, I'll get back to you on this when I have a look at it.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭ johnnyfruitcake


    No real budget, just want a decent welder for general work, don't mind spending decent money for a good welder.
    Would I be better getting a higher spec second hand one?


  • Registered Users Posts: 269 ✭✭ westlander


    What do lads think of the Lidl welders? Powercraft 160 amp they were.
    I had one in the box from new and I welded a broken mudguard frame for the tractor. It did the job but the actual cable from the welder unit to the welding rod came lose must be from the dampness in the shed.
    Are they only dirt?
    Btw pure novice but am interested in a new welder as well so following this thread too!


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,469 ✭✭✭ patsy_mccabe


    richie123 wrote: »
    160 is very small you'd need a minimum of 180 especially with leads

    For an inverter type welder, would 160 amps not be enough for 3.2mm rods?

    " And on the riverbank forgotten the river's name."



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,386 ✭✭✭✭ Timmaay


    For an inverter type welder, would 160 amps not be enough for 3.2mm rods?

    160amps will weld 3.2 no problem, but look at what the duty cycle is, ie how long it can weld at 160 for, I'd aim for the likes of a 200amps at 60% duty, will let you use the likes of 4mm rods comfortably also. Does anyone rather use MIG instead for farm use? I was tempted to pick-up a MIG welder but read up that arc better in if your material usually isn't perfectly clean (when the hell ever is it with farming jobs ha). Also anyone bother with rods other than 6013s with arc?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,769 ✭✭✭ Jb1989


    Timmaay wrote: »
    160amps will weld 3.2 no problem, but look at what the duty cycle is, ie how long it can weld at 160 for, I'd aim for the likes of a 200amps at 60% duty, will let you use the likes of 4mm rods comfortably also. Does anyone rather use MIG instead for farm use? I was tempted to pick-up a MIG welder but read up that arc better in if your material usually isn't perfectly clean (when the hell ever is it with farming jobs ha). Also anyone bother with rods other than 6013s with arc?

    And its not ideal outside if windy as gas gets blown away and weld bubbles.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,386 ✭✭✭✭ Timmaay


    Actually l'm after getting an aldi metal bandsaw for like 100e, and honestly it's probably made the single biggest difference to my welding, no more rough angle grinded apart cuts which result in gaps when welding and much greater chance of a blowout.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,469 ✭✭✭ patsy_mccabe


    I'm half tempted by this one;

    €200 from EPT in Carlow. Duty cycle is 25%. But that's over 10mins so once you allow some time between rods, it should be fine.
    https://www.ept-irl.com/products/parweld-xts163dv-160amp-dual-voltage-mma-inverter-wtwtwpw-xts163dv.html?name=parweld&type=simple

    This Jefferson 160 amp one is €225 from PJ Callan.
    https://www.pjcallanltd.com/products/jefferson-160-amp-inverter-welder

    Is it the same one as this, at €313 40% duty cycle
    https://www.clarkesofcavan.ie/shop/tools/welders-accessories/jefferson-160amp-arc-tig-inverter-welder/

    Would Jefferson be better than Parweld? I don't want to buy rubbish.........

    " And on the riverbank forgotten the river's name."



  • Registered Users Posts: 787 ✭✭✭ richie123


    I'm half tempted by this one;

    €200 from EPT in Carlow. Duty cycle is 25%. But that's over 10mins so once you allow some time between rods, it should be fine.
    https://www.ept-irl.com/products/parweld-xts163dv-160amp-dual-voltage-mma-inverter-wtwtwpw-xts163dv.html?name=parweld&type=simple

    This Jefferson 160 amp one is €225 from PJ Callan.
    https://www.pjcallanltd.com/products/jefferson-160-amp-inverter-welder

    Is it the same one as this, at €313 40% duty cycle
    https://www.clarkesofcavan.ie/shop/tools/welders-accessories/jefferson-160amp-arc-tig-inverter-welder/

    Would Jefferson be better than Parweld? I don't want to buy rubbish.........

    I bought an invertor welder 6 years ago and it's broke now and can't be repaired.diddnt do a huge amount with it either..I'm also looking for one but I'll be trying to get one with a decent warranty.they can be fickle enough machine s to keep going


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  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭ johnnyfruitcake




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,546 ✭✭✭ Blaaz_


    Timmaay wrote: »
    160amps will weld 3.2 no problem, but look at what the duty cycle is, ie how long it can weld at 160 for, I'd aim for the likes of a 200amps at 60% duty, will let you use the likes of 4mm rods comfortably also. Does anyone rather use MIG instead for farm use? I was tempted to pick-up a MIG welder but read up that arc better in if your material usually isn't perfectly clean (when the hell ever is it with farming jobs ha). Also anyone bother with rods other than 6013s with arc?

    We use MIG in work and it wont weld over rust/paint nor burn off properly and alot of setting up aswell,gas,pressure,wire speed and current

    But when its setup,and material prepared,you can weld all day without stopping,much nicer to use imo


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,469 ✭✭✭ patsy_mccabe


    Blaaz_ wrote: »
    We use MIG in work and it wont weld over rust/paint nor burn off properly and alot of setting up aswell,gas,pressure,wire speed and current

    But when its setup,and material prepared,you can weld all day without stopping,much nicer to use imo

    Do you get the same level of penetration with MIG? I always thought MIG welds look better but not as strong.

    " And on the riverbank forgotten the river's name."



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,450 ✭✭✭ SuperTortoise


    richie123 wrote: »
    160 is very small you'd need a minimum of 180 especially with leads


    You'd burn a 4mm rod @160amps, there are very few farm applications where you need to be burning a 4mm rod, but having said that better to be looking at it than looking for it.


    OP,

    Parweld is a middle of the road machine, although i've recommended them in the past i'm not sure i could any more, they seem to be very hit and miss. Most of the machines in or around that price range will be much of a muchness, for stick or TIG welding you won't see much difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,546 ✭✭✭ Blaaz_


    Do you get the same level of penetration with MIG? I always thought MIG welds look better but not as strong.

    Tbh i cut grooves/Vees and fill.the hole with weld.....ive never had a weld split,but was always told.the stick is stronger

    I wouldnt be an expert welder by any means either,just one in the workshop.....you can weld pure paper with the MIG aswell..

    .for stop/start welding,its no comparison......but i wouldnt buy one at home,if wire gets damp etc,it'll start acting up (well the work one deos!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,450 ✭✭✭ SuperTortoise


    Timmaay wrote: »
    160amps will weld 3.2 no problem, but look at what the duty cycle is, ie how long it can weld at 160 for, I'd aim for the likes of a 200amps at 60% duty, will let you use the likes of 4mm rods comfortably also. Does anyone rather use MIG instead for farm use? I was tempted to pick-up a MIG welder but read up that arc better in if your material usually isn't perfectly clean (when the hell ever is it with farming jobs ha). Also anyone bother with rods other than 6013s with arc?


    MIG would like the material cleaner alright, stick weld would be stronger especially on anything above 4-5mm thick.


    6010/11, and 7018 low hydrogen rods, and 29-9 rods are fierce handy to have around.


    6010/11 for anything with a bad fit up, they are a fast freeze rod so they'll weld anything with a gap or anything caked in paint/grease/****e. Edit: Most inverters will not run these rods, they require a higher open circuit votage which inverters rarely provide unless you spend serious money on an inverter.


    7018 low hydrogen for mild steel applications, burn a few of those and you will never go back to a 6013 again


    29-9 for welding dissimilar metals, self explanatory, expensive and the fumes are NOT good for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,450 ✭✭✭ SuperTortoise


    I'm half tempted by this one;

    €200 from EPT in Carlow. Duty cycle is 25%. But that's over 10mins so once you allow some time between rods, it should be fine.
    https://www.ept-irl.com/products/parweld-xts163dv-160amp-dual-voltage-mma-inverter-wtwtwpw-xts163dv.html?name=parweld&type=simple

    This Jefferson 160 amp one is €225 from PJ Callan.
    https://www.pjcallanltd.com/products/jefferson-160-amp-inverter-welder

    Is it the same one as this, at €313 40% duty cycle
    https://www.clarkesofcavan.ie/shop/tools/welders-accessories/jefferson-160amp-arc-tig-inverter-welder/

    Would Jefferson be better than Parweld? I don't want to buy rubbish.........


    I don't think the Jefferson is worth over a hundred euro more in my opinion.
    Check out what warranty and returns is for both machines.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,450 ✭✭✭ SuperTortoise


    For an inverter type welder, would 160 amps not be enough for 3.2mm rods?


    Plenty, 3.2mm 6013 rod i would set @120amps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭✭✭ tancoman


    Yeah no problem with an Invertor. Will weld up to 12mm no problem. I find Hilco Red rods excellent. Ok, they area bit more expensive, but easier to use particularly if stuff isn't too clean.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 542 ✭✭✭ bamayang


    I'm half tempted by this one;

    €200 from EPT in Carlow. Duty cycle is 25%. But that's over 10mins so once you allow some time between rods, it should be fine.
    https://www.ept-irl.com/products/parweld-xts163dv-160amp-dual-voltage-mma-inverter-wtwtwpw-xts163dv.html?name=parweld&type=simple

    This Jefferson 160 amp one is €225 from PJ Callan.
    https://www.pjcallanltd.com/products/jefferson-160-amp-inverter-welder

    Is it the same one as this, at €313 40% duty cycle
    https://www.clarkesofcavan.ie/shop/tools/welders-accessories/jefferson-160amp-arc-tig-inverter-welder/

    Would Jefferson be better than Parweld? I don't want to buy rubbish.........

    Have that parweld 6 years, a1 on anything around the farm.


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