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Tall movable wall

  • 12-11-2020 9:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭


    Hi there,
    I have an oddly shaped living room (L shaped)
    I want to out up a wall to create a small room in one of the longer sections of the room but i would like to still open the room of i need to have a large famiky dinner in that space (if that makes sense)

    So my idea is a wall on casters. However the wall would need to be 9ft high by 4 or 5 ft wide.

    My concern is keeping the wall as slim as possible yet stable.
    I think I'd have a bolt into the ceiling to stop it being tipped over.

    So i guess im asking is there a minimum width I'd need to have it to keep it stable or spes anyone else hwve a way to do this.
    Im open to material suggestions as well. One side will be flat while the other will be shelving.


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    kadman wrote: »
    Why not use bifold doors

    No, i dont want this to appear to be a moveable wall. I dont really like bifold room dividers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    It's make it a rollable book base with storage in the bottom for weight. On castors. Foot thick would do. Attempting a skinny wall on wheels bolted to the roof would look exactly as described . Better of making a feature of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    listermint wrote: »
    It's make it a rollable book base with storage in the bottom for weight. On castors. Foot thick would do. Attempting a skinny wall on wheels bolted to the roof would look exactly as described . Better of making a feature of it.

    Id be happy with a foot thick. Would that keep it from tipping over. My plan is to put removable skirting board in order to hide the casters and access them when i need to move the wall


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    is the 5 feet full width?

    how will it create the room and still be able to rotate back against whatever?
    I would make it 600 wide up to about 30 inches and the 300 onwards, with the wall effect on the side u want it, the other side for heavy storage

    The castor may be say 2 inches in from the edge so for a foo=t wide it could be 8 ".
    for nine feet, no thanks

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    is the 5 feet full width?

    how will it create the room and still be able to rotate back against whatever?
    I would make it 600 wide up to about 30 inches and the 300 onwards, with the wall effect on the side u want it, the other side for heavy storage

    The castor may be say 2 inches in from the edge so for a foo=t wide it could be 8 ".
    for nine feet, no thanks


    Hi, not 5ft is not the full width of the room, There is a 3 ft opening that will be created by this wall.
    I've attached a crude drawing of the space
    The blue is the shape of the room. The red is the wall when its creating the room. The green is when its pushed back on the wall.


    The entrance to the room will be a full height opening, this wont be closed off but rather just a small space for either a desk, childrens play area, listening to music on headphone etc etc. We haven't decided its use yet.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Freestanding or pivoting 4-5' x 9' x 1' mobile walls with shelves....

    and

    Children's play area.

    These things do not go together.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    seannash wrote: »
    Hi, not 5ft is not the full width of the room, There is a 3 ft opening that will be created by this wall.
    I've attached a crude drawing of the space
    The blue is the shape of the room. The red is the wall when its creating the room. The green is when its pushed back on the wall.


    The entrance to the room will be a full height opening, this wont be closed off but rather just a small space for either a desk, childrens play area, listening to music on headphone etc etc. We haven't decided its use yet.

    Its worth pointing out that since you are going to be using it like a door, approx 1/3rd of the room will be useless as the "door" needs to swing open and closed...

    It will be a pain in the arse if you need to tidy up the room just to move this panel...

    Is the floor carpet or wood?
    Rolling something of this size in carpet would need to ensure that it was "impossible" to tip over, also casters on carpet are a pain in the ass and will leave marks.
    If you are only moving it very infrequently then I would forget about wheels and just use a furniture mover/dolly when required. It will be more stable and leave less of a mark on the floor, to aide that I would have a solid sheet on the base (this would also help you slide it if its empty)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Its worth pointing out that since you are going to be using it like a door, approx 1/3rd of the room will be useless as the "door" needs to swing open and closed...

    It will be a pain in the arse if you need to tidy up the room just to move this panel...

    Is the floor carpet or wood?
    Rolling something of this size in carpet would need to ensure that it was "impossible" to tip over, also casters on carpet are a pain in the ass and will leave marks.
    If you are only moving it very infrequently then I would forget about wheels and just use a furniture mover/dolly when required. It will be more stable and leave less of a mark on the floor, to aide that I would have a solid sheet on the base (this would also help you slide it if its empty)

    Thanks.
    There is no door. The wall will create the opening.
    I have to stress this room will be tiny so cleanup wouldnt be a massive deal really if i need to move the wall. It would probably only be moved 3 times a year so perhaps the movers dolly would work but it would then not reach all the way to the ceiling.
    Im thinking that i should make something to accept the side of the wall that butts up against the permanent wall in order to stabilize it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Freestanding or pivoting 4-5' x 9' x 1' mobile walls with shelves....

    and

    Children's play area.

    These things do not go together.
    I think if its stabilized enough it should be fine. Hence my questions
    Flush bolts into the celing should prevent it tipping over.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Why not hinge it to the wall and have castors or 4 " wheels out front: no need for stabilising weight then
    and fit an electric gate arm in the bottom :)

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    In my experience unless its a concrete wall thats part of the structure, then

    Kids will,...move it, push it, pull it, topple it,vandalise it,

    crush it, paint it, wreck it, or tear it down like the berlin wall:p:p:P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭dathi




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    dathi wrote: »

    I've seen this video alright. Its a reallt cool system/idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    Why not hinge it to the wall and have castors or 4 " wheels out front: no need for stabilising weight then
    and fit an electric gate arm in the bottom :)

    That was my original plan, a large piano hinge on one side but i think having the whole thing moveable would be ideal fory situation.
    I think I'll work on a u shaped channel tp accept the moveable wall and help with stability. Or else just screw it in place and unscrew when it needs to move although that would be a last resort


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    seannash wrote: »
    That was my original plan, a large piano hinge on one side but i think having the whole thing moveable would be ideal fory situation.
    I think I'll work on a u shaped channel tp accept the moveable wall and help with stability. Or else just screw it in place and unscrew when it needs to move although that would be a last resort

    Not a piano hinge but one like you see on big steel gates where the weight is all taken at ground level through a pin on a plate: it will cater for uneven floor/wall etc

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    seannash wrote: »
    Thanks.
    There is no door. The wall will create the opening.
    I have to stress this room will be tiny so cleanup wouldnt be a massive deal really if i need to move the wall. It would probably only be moved 3 times a year so perhaps the movers dolly would work but it would then not reach all the way to the ceiling.
    Im thinking that i should make something to accept the side of the wall that butts up against the permanent wall in order to stabilize it.

    Sorry, my point was that the wall itself will be the door, it has to swing/move from where it is to against the wall, so same impact as a door.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    OP could you move the red divider down so that its flush with the small horizontal wall and then use a barn door style?
    Then its hung from the roof and slides over and back without issue.

    (Wont work if there is a window on that wall of course!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Sorry, my point was that the wall itself will be the door, it has to swing/move from where it is to against the wall, so same impact as a door.


    Ah I get ya.
    Yeah that's probably why I would like to have its moveable instead of swinging so I could maneuver it easier into position.
    If it were up to me I'd make it solid but my partner wants the option of opening it out, bit like our extending dining table that's never been extended but we have the option.......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    GreeBo wrote: »
    OP could you move the red divider down so that its flush with the small horizontal wall and then use a barn door style?
    Then its hung from the roof and slides over and back without issue.

    (Wont work if there is a window on that wall of course!)
    Unfortunately not, its a doorway to what will be under stairs storage.
    I've attached some pictures of the actual space so you guys can see the size and location (Ignore the mess)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    seannash wrote: »
    Unfortunately not, its a doorway to what will be under stairs storage.
    I've attached some pictures of the actual space so you guys can see the size and location (Ignore the mess)

    Hmm, if it was me, I think I would go with a large/long roller blind from the ceiling until we decided that this was something actually worth doing!

    To make a wall stable it will need to be wide and it really doesnt look like you have the space!

    It also looks like it will be pretty dark in there, or does the window make it into that side?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Hmm, if it was me, I think I would go with a large/long roller blind from the ceiling until we decided that this was something actually worth doing!

    To make a wall stable it will need to be wide and it really doesnt look like you have the space!

    It also looks like it will be pretty dark in there, or does the window make it into that side?
    I think that as its going to be shelving on the other side I can get away with it being wide. Fixing i into the wall may be the best thing though.

    Wouldn't be a fan of a blind to be honest.


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